Patty McB wrote:
Thank you - very well explained! It IS very possible I didn't really understand what the instructor was saying. He asked us to download the free software that came with the camera, try it with a RAW photo, compare it to the same photo downloaded in LR, and see the difference in the look of the photo. Have not done that yet. I have been happy with my LR workflow and not inclined to change, but I did want to do a little research and see if there was any merit to what he said...
One more thought here, about getting it "right" in camera.
There is a school of thought that insists a real photographer creates the whole image in camera. While there is always some advantage to getting a correct exposure, correct white balance, good lighting, composition, moment, and other attributes, (especially when learning your craft) there should be no shame in improving an image after the fact.
Photography is a form of communications. Just as with speech, we have infinite ways to express the same thought, some of which are more effective than others. With imaging, we have infinite ways to record and process a scene for visual consumption.
Raw file recording is like exposing negative film. There is wide exposure latitude when using negative films. You have at least some choice of development methods (lots with B&W, very limited with color). Raw files have a bit narrower latitude than film, but it's an order of magnitude better than JPEG capture allows.
JPEG file capture at the camera is like exposing slide/transparency film. There is very little exposure latitude. You can't overexpose without blowing the highlight details. You can't underexpose much without losing the shadow details.
That is why professionals say, "Raw is for rookies." It's more forgiving.
If you want "prime quality" JPEGs OR slides, you have to control everything accurately at the camera. That means controlling the scene brightness with lighting or light modifiers, making custom white balance with a reference tool of some sort, and metering a reference tool to get the scene balance just right. It may also mean altering the camera's menu settings to take advantage of subtle control over picture style, contrast, sharpness, noise reduction, saturation, color tone, hue, highlight/shadow compensation, and any other controls available.
All that work at the camera is what we used to do with slide films in the studio or on location. It is all about control. For slides, we had to use filters over the lens and sometimes over lights in the scene to get the color balance right. We had to meter very carefully. We had to use fill cards, scrims, diffusers, light modifiers... whatever it took to create a natural look within the brightness limits of the final display. We could slack-off on some of that when using negative films.