The only reason I could see for dragging the tree is if it was in a location that made it unsafe to work on and those I left alone!
Most of our woods are on very hilly ground, so I top them, limb them & then drag the logs to the level spot where our old barn used to be.
I slice them & stack them so they can begin to dry out. I may not get to split them for a while. I learned that most of the drying takes place from the cut end, NOT from splitting (kind of counter-intuitive).
jerryc41 posted about the cost of firewood. In our area the current price is $70.00 a "face cord" (4' high x 8' long x 16"-20", the "face" of a cord of wood).
Until our old furnace died a few years back (we use propane now) I cut wood for about 25 years from our own woods of about 8 acres. I knew nothing about it when I started. We had moved from the Detroit suburbs to 35 acres in the Northwoods. Got pretty good at it after a while.
Started out with seven kids helping me, ended up doing it all alone, which kept me in pretty good shape.
jerryc41 posted about the cost of firewood. In ou... (show quote)
falling the tree you use a wedge cut. I would think that a ground parallel cut on the fall side would be more correct
I like the "hinge" on a wedge cut, it's very good for choosing the direction of fall.
Not exactly sure what a parallel ground cut is.
ON THE FALL SIDE OF THE TREE THE CUT WOULD BE PARALLEL (OR BELOW PARALLEL) WHILE THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CUT WOULD BE A DOWN SLOPING CUT TO INSURE THE FALL DIRECTION. THE HINGE OR WEDGE CUT IF SYMETRICAL WOULD NOT INSURE THE TREE TO FALL IN THE DESIRED DIRECTION PLS EXPLAIN THE PRINCIPLE OF THE WEDGE CUT THANKS BODIEBILL