lowkick Loc: Connecticut

I am just getting into focus stacking and have two questions I haven't found answers for.

1. When you start the process of taking photographs to stack, should you start at the closest point to the camera and then gradually move the camera to the furthest point? Or do you start at the furthest point and gradually move the camera back towards the closest part of the subject? Or does it matter?

2. Are you better off using stationary lighting, or a ring light mounted on the lens that moves with the camera?

Dik

1 does not matter
2 do not move light

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

1. Agree. Does not matter. But I suspect most people start from the front and move to the back.
2. Its best to have stationary lighting. I will also use a flash attached to the camera, but that is only when I am taking a small # of pictures for a quick stack. I think that the stacking software (Zerene Stacker) evens out the light levels, but still its best in principle to not move the light.
A ring light can make things look too flat since it tends to fill in all shadows. But if you have it you can try it. Many ring lights can also be used off camera, off to the side a little.

Don, the 2nd son Loc: Crowded Florida

When in doubt try it out! I have moved the light (between exposures) when the subject has multiple facets, tried with and without, interesting effects. Remember we don't have to buy film and pay processing costs now.

EnglishBrenda Loc: Kent, England

Hi Mark, the OP mentioned moving the camera back or forward which seems good when working with the camera in hand but what about when on a tripod. I have tended to move the focus ring for the sake of stability, am I OK doing this or would the use of a rail be better even though, apart from the very expensive ones, rails are often criticised for instability.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

There is this description about the matter: https://zerenesystems.com/cms/stacker/docs/troubleshooting/ringversusrail. This only serves to confuse the issue, if you ask me, but people looking into this at least should look at it.
Really hi end focus rails probably give the greatest precision for really tiny subjects and hi mag (Sippyjug territory), and automated rails become very convenient then since the # of pictures required is very high.
Focus rings are probably good enough for most everything else, and it sure is simpler. An automated version of that would be either a camera with built in focus bracketing, or the Helicon Fb tube attachment (which I have). Manual focus rings are fine if you are not needing to take a lot of pictures. I do that a lot, since with a small # of pictures I don't want to bother breaking out the Fb tube. I find it pretty easy, and I just eyeball how much to turn the ring.

A cheap focus rail is ok for larger subjects (more than a few centimeters, surely) as long as you feel it can be done with good stability. Actually, I regularly use a cheap 2-way rail as a means to help position the camera onto the subject but then do the focus bracketing with the focus ring or Fb tube. But that sort of rail adds a lot of weight onto the tripod head so I have to really clamp it down hard. It does become an issue.

sippyjug104 Loc: Missouri

Speaking for myself, I start my sessions with the closest part of the subject in focus nearest to the camera, and then I back it up to where it becomes out of focus and that is my "starting point" where the first shot in the stack will be taken. I advance the camera forward until I reach a point furthest from the camera that comes into sharp focus and that becomes the "endpoint" where the last shot will be taken.

The number of shots taken in the stack will depend upon the depth of field of the optics mounted on the camera and that number can vary greatly based on the amount of magnification for the higher the magnification the more shallow the depth of field.

I've settled on the use of constant diffused illumination for it allows me to see what the shot will look like while viewing the histogram. Using a Speedlight consumes batteries, even rechargeable ones and the recycle time has to be considered. I burned up two of my monolights by overheating them so I gave that up too. LED desk lamps are now my go-to source of illumination for my sessions which may require 500+ images to a session.

EnglishBrenda Loc: Kent, England

[quote=Mark Sturtevant]There is this description about the matter: https://zerenesystems.com/cms/stacker/docs/troubleshooting/ringversusrail. This only serves to confuse the issue, if you ask me, but people looking into this at least should look at it.

Thanks Mark, I also use the focus ring and I count the grooves, your response has reassured me that I am using the best method for the small amount that I do. I always admire your work and the vast array of subjects that you find. Happy New Year to you and your family.

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

👍👍👍

JeffDavidson Loc: Originally Detroit Now Los Angeles

If you are actually moving the camera, you will be very hard-pressed to maintain the position, angle, etc. in order to have a good image. Perhaps you meant changing the point of focus.

lowkick Loc: Connecticut

No, I meant moving the camera on a focus rail. The reason I asked the question is that the distance of the lens to the subject can be extremely close, and as you move the lens closer to the subject, shot after shot, the lens can actually start to block the light source.