MRHooker2u Loc: Kingston, WA

I keep reading about different methods to achieve tack sharp focus with regards to landscape photographs. I have a Nikon D750 with the AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm 1:4 G ED lens. I have calibrated this lens as best I can, use back button focus, use a remote shutter release and tripod mount the camera. That said, the photographs I take never appear to be tack sharp focused. The last thing I tried was to lock the mirror up to prevent mirror slap when the shutter triggered which seemed to correct the issue somewhat but there still appears to be softness in the photographs. I have yet to read of a professional photographer locking the mirror in the up position prior to taking a photograph. I have a couple of questions regarding this. Is it the quality (or lack of) of the glass or, in lieu of purchasing a mirrorless camera, do I have to lock the mirror in the up position every time I want to take a landscape photograph.
The following images were shot at about 25 ft and cropped. The first one shows straight out of the camera. The second image was processed with Topaz SharpenAI. The third image was taken with the mirror locked in the up position. This is better than the first image but still soft. The fourth image is the third image processed through Topaz SharpenAI.
Unless I can find a solution to this issue it appears I will have to process all my landscape photos through Topaz SharpenAI. If all else fails, I will have a Nikon authorized repair service evaluate my camera and lens and proceed from there. I would appreciate any insight or comments. Thanks!

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CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

When I download and look at your first image in Capture NX-D, there are no active focus points. It's also shot at 1/20 sec at a 105mm focal length. This raises several questions:

1. How are you focusing? Why are there no active focus points?
1a. The image reports Affinity Photo, possibly this software has suppressed the AF information in the EXIF. We need an original version of the image, not using Affinity. Be sure to store the unprocessed JPEG attachment.
2. Was this image captured on a tripod or handheld?
3. You say AF-S. Does the camera beep a focus confirmation? If beep off, do you half-press the shutter for a second or so and allow the camera to focus?
4. Are you using selective focus with a single AF point or group / zone? For this first image, where did you want to focus?
5. Given the first image is not anywhere near in-focus, are you using the camera / lens Auto Focus feature?
6. Have you considered the ideas presented as: How to obtain sharp images in digital photography

You don't need software to sharpen out of focus images. Please provide details for the questions and an original image direct from the camera, without the EXIF being suppressed / stripped.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

In addition to above, even with image stabilization, 1/20 sec shutter speed is iffy.

therwol Loc: USA

The first picture especially seems grossly out of focus. I'm not a big fan of that lens (not bad but not great), but it should focus properly. When you say you took the second picture with the mirror up, do you mean in the Live View mode? There should be no error in that mode because the sensor will determine the proper focus. Did you manually focus? If you used autofocus, what option did you use? My suggestions are this. See if the camera focuses properly with another lens. Take the picture in the Live View mode and see if that makes a difference. Don't forget that the lens has to be set to autofocus if you don't focus manually. It looks to me as if you just pointed the camera and took a picture without focusing the lens at all, which seems impossible unless you're in a mode to focus manually. Check the switch on the lens.

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

Also at these close distances DOF is a big factor. The further away your subject/focal point is the greater the DOF.

And these are close ups of features, not "Landscape" as I and I believe most people think of Landscape.
These are:

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Guzser02

Images 2 and 4 show alot of clarity and detail, suggesting that your issue is optical in nature. Suspect #1 is the lens optical alignment. Did it by chance bounce around in your bag? That could throw one of the lens groups off.

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

Are you suggesting that the lens alignment changed while shooting this sequence???

No. If one or two images show sufficient clarity look elsewhere for the explanation.

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

Mr. Hooker. You are on the right track. You do not need to submit additional images to figure this out. Paul's reference to various techniques that aid sharpness are all exactly on point.

Yes. For ultimate sharpness you want to be using "mirror lock-up". This feature has been around on pro style Nikon bodies since at least the F2 (1975). With the current digital bodies the best way to invoke it is to use a remote release and wait a second or two between the 2 shutter presses.

For landscape work, if you absolutely want to nail the focus, put it on manual rather than autofocus. Pick the portion of the image you most want in perfect focus and then switch into live view mode. Magnify the image on your back screen x10 and very carefully move the focus ring to achieve maximum crispness. Then exit live view and take the image using all the usual sharpness techniques and precautions. This will exceed what the camera can do if you attempt to take the image using auto while in live view.

After having done the above, if you remain less than satisfied, then it is time to look at other variables. A somewhat flimsy tripod or head can contribute to softness. The more likely villian here though will be the lens itself. It is sort of a do it all competent design but not optically superior. You can get significantly sharper results using more refined lenses. That is a separate discussion which would generate quite the spectrum of replies on this forum. Be aware that most answers are from users who like their gear but have zero idea how it compares to the totality of what is possible.

Finally. Get out there and have some fun imaging. It is possible to lose sight of that if merely pursuing technical perfection. You reside in an area full of amazing landscape opportunities.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

I don’t think “technical perfection” is the issue, and it isn’t any fun to take out of focus issues. Although the lens in question isn’t the ne plus ultra of lenses, it should be able to take sharp enough images using AF without mirror lock up or AI Sharpen. Do what Paul said and confirm that (a) the AF is enabled (b) you know where the focus point actually is, and (c) that you use an appropriate shutter speed (1/FL) taking the “crop factor into account (and turn IS on if available). If all that doesn’t work, perhaps the lens needs servicing.

therwol Loc: USA

Not necessarily. VR can be quite effective at 1/20. The photo is out of focus. It has to be determined why that would be the case, user error or lens error.

rmorrison1116 Loc: Near Valley Forge, Pennsylvania

Depends on the camera, lens and subject.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

When we get on the track of identifying and resolving the issue(s) of why the example unprocessed images aren't even close to in-focus, only then will the OP be on the right track of consistently achieving sharply focused images.

Quixdraw Loc: x

You just captured the World Heavyweight Watermark Championship!

therwol Loc: USA

I would be interested in seeing the uncropped photo, seeing the actual point of focus, and making a judgement as to whether this would fall into what should be in focus from that, taking depth of field into consideration.

Grahame Loc: Fiji

Without seeing the original uncropped image we have absolutely no idea of 'how much you cropped them'.