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I'm not using the gray card for an incident reading. I was suggesting using the xard as if it were the subject and take in incident reading in front of it just as you would with a person. Take a shot using the meter readings and check where the spike from the gray card falls on the histogram. Compare that with the results you get taking the reflected meter reading from the card with the cameras meter. Both meters should be giving you a correct reading for 18% gray. If they don't match then the two meters were calibrated to different standards. In that case you want to calibrate your incident meter to the camera so that either meter will give the same reading. An incident reading taken in fromt of the 18% gray card should give you the same settings as you would get taking a reflected reading from the card using the camera's built in meter.

At my advanced age, whether or not my memory is working right or not seems to be variable but something I seem to recall about using handheld meters from the instruction manual of both my Minolta and Luna Pro meters, both of which have a 1 degree spot meter attachment for an alternative to incidence and reflective readings, is that if you want an incidence reading you aimed the dome toward the source of light (at the camera) and for a reflected reading you take the dome off and aim at the subject. I can lay my hands on my manuals fairly easily if needed and will humbly bow if mistaken. I mostly quit using my handheld meters after extensive comparison of reflective metering from my camera and reflective metering from my handheld, noting that there wasn't often an appreciable difference but I have several older cameras that do not have a meter in them as well as some with selenium cell meters that have quit working. I found that "Sunny 16" works a lot better with print film that has up 4 to 5 degrees of exposure latitude but not so well with slide film or digital where a reading needs to be more precise due to a lack of wiggle room.

The manual for this meter expressly states in section 2.2 to point the meter from the subject towards the camera. That way you will be able to determine how much light is falling on the subject. The dome will provide the reading incidence of the light from the sky and other areas. If you point the meter to the sky or up, you will not get a correct reading and will mostly overexpose the shot. Since many meters can measure can measure flash exposure you still want to point the meter towards the camera as well and the dome will accommodate the correct exposure for the direction that the light is coming from. You do not point the flash function towards the flash unless the flash is on the camera.

I have no accurate statistics, however, I would make an educated guess that what with the advanced and sophisticated metering systems in today's digital cameras, the majority of photographers, including serious workers and professionals are not using or depending on handheld exposure meters. There are, however, a significant minority of photographers, including myself, who still find them particularly useful. while not excluding their cameras' internal systems, for many situations and specific applications. I have come to the obvious conclusion, after many years of expereince in calculating all kinds of exposure scenarios, that there is not one kind of meter, metering mode (incident, reflected, or spot metering, on one metering setting in your cameras' menu (spot, average, matrix. etc.) that can address all situations and scenarios or kinds of work at hand. Most importantly, even with the best and most versatile meter or camera in hand, the photographer's metering technique is the most essential component of attaining the correct and most accurate exposure.

Whether you are using your cameras' metering systems or a handheld exposure meter in an incident, reflected, or spot mode, the key to accurate or effective readings is knowing where and how to probe. Of course, there is the prescribed method, with the incident or light meters, to place the meter at the subject and point the lig collect dome at the camera. Theoretically, the come will collet and defuse or miss the light so that is still the subject for all the directions they came can see and an acceptable exposure should result. If, however, the photographer wishes to further analyze the scent or subject, set up lighting ratios in studios environments, measure the effectiveness of a reflector fill with natural or ambient light, measure the effect of a light sstrikomgthe subject for a more extreme angle of incidence, the incident light meter can also be used to make more isolated readings by the use of an interchangeable flat light receptor, a recessed dome, or simply by shading one or more aspects of the dome.

Some incident light metes, mostly older models. had an accessory grid that to would replace the dome and thereby simulate a perfect light meter. Other older mode reflects light meters had an accessory dome or inserts that would convert it for incident light readings. Those older meters were usually analog types with calculator dials that had compensatory markings for these conversions.

Regardless of the meter type you use, YOU are the operator and YOU must learn how to use it effectively. It is merely a light measuring instrument and as much as the manufactures and retailers like to call cameras and meters "intelligent"- they use that little italicized ("I") in the nameplate- your meter has no eyes and no brain. A stethoscope is an instrument that your doctor uses but he or she can't listen to your heart or lungs by placing the stethoscope on your knee. And, if you were not a health professional, you would not know what specific sounds to listen for even if you placed the instrument properly. The doctor would not use a sphygmomanometer to listen to your heart- that tool is for blood pressure measurement. Learn where and how to measure light and use the right meter or metering mode that is appropriate for the job at hand!

I have no accurate statistics, however, I would make an educated guess that what with the advanced and sophisticated metering systems in today's digital cameras, the majority of photographers, including serious workers and professionals are not using or depending on handheld exposure meters. There are, however, a significant minority of photographers, including myself, who still find them particularly useful, while not excluding their cameras' internal systems, for many situations and specific applications. I have come to the obvious conclusion, after many years of experience in calculating all kinds of exposure scenarios, that there is not one kind of meter, metering mode (incident, reflected, or spot metering, on one metering setting in your cameras' menu (spot, average, matrix. etc.) that can address all situations and scenarios or kinds of work at hand. Most importantly, even with the best and most versatile meter or camera in hand, the photographer's metering technique is the most essential component of attaining the correct and most accurate exposure.

Whether you are using your cameras' metering systems or a handheld exposure meter in an incident, reflected, or spot mode, the key to accurate or effective readings is knowing where and how to probe. Of course, there is the prescribed method, with the incident or light meters, to place the meter at the subject and point the lig collect dome at the camera. Theoretically, the come will collet and defuse or miss the light so that is still the subject for all the directions they came can see and an acceptable exposure should result. If, however, the photographer wishes to further analyze the scent or subject, set up lighting ratios in studios environments, measure the effectiveness of a reflector fill with natural or ambient light, measure the effect of a light striking the subject fom a more extreme angle of incidence, the incident light meter can also be used to make more isolated readings by the use of an interchangeable flat light receptor, a recessed dome, or simply by shading one or more aspects of the dome.

Some incident light metes, mostly older models. had an accessory grid that to would replace the dome and thereby simulate a perfect light meter. Other older mode reflects light meters had an accessory dome or inserts that would convert it for incident light readings. Those older meters were usually analog types with calculator dials that had compensatory markings for these conversions.

Regardless of the meter type you use, YOU are the operator and YOU must learn how to use it effectively. It is merely a light measuring instrument and as much as the manufactures and retailers like to call cameras and meters "intelligent"- they use that little italicized ("I") in the nameplate- your meter has no eyes and no brain. A stethoscope is an instrument that your doctor uses but he or she can't listen to your heart or lungs by placing the stethoscope on your knee. And, if you were not a health professional, you would not know what specific sounds to listen for even if you placed the instrument properly. The doctor would not use a sphygmomanometer to listen to your heart- that tool is for blood pressure measurement. Learn where and how to measure light and use the right meter or metering mode that is appropriate for the job at hand!
Excellent thoughts. I do think that a hand held meter still is an excellent teaching tool but I suspect that most photographers use in camera meters with multi-section capability. Further, most cameras allow exposure bracketing as well and it is relatively easy to compensate for exposure errors in various programs. I wonder how many folks really think about different metering modes or grey cards these days.