Nighttime Digital Photography
Nov 3, 2012 01:57:54 #
I have done some no-flash film format night shooting, with some fairly decent results. But, for the life of me, I cannot take a decent digital night shot. Using a heavy Slik Tripod does not eliminate blurry lighting and I have tried several settings that have not worked. It just occurred to me that I have not tried "manual" using the settings I used with 35mm film. Not even sure I could set the camera up for that. I am using a Nikon D40X. Would certainly appreciate any help on this.
Nov 3, 2012 02:01:19 #
UltraPilot wrote:
I have done some no-flash film format night shooting, with some fairly decent results. But, for the life of me, I cannot take a decent digital night shot. Using a heavy Slik Tripod does not eliminate blurry lighting and I have tried several settings that have not worked. It just occurred to me that I have not tried "manual" using the settings I used with 35mm film. Not even sure I could set the camera up for that. I am using a Nikon D40X. Would certainly appreciate any help on this.
Do you use the self-timer or a remote to trip your shutter? Also are you using live view to compose?
Nov 3, 2012 02:14:26 #
And, don't forget to turn off the image stabilization when using the tripod.
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Nov 3, 2012 03:01:23 #
Shot in manual. Handheld.
Depending on how your camera works at High ISO's you can get by without a tripod(Handheld) in a pinch. I did this as one of my rule breaker shots. You need to hold the camera correctly and have a very steady hand to shoot at 1/15 at 35mm. I would recommend a tripod. When you have a model in the picture shooting at longer exposures is almost impossible. Every situation is different.
Picture shot in manual. Shot with the Kit lens on a 5DMKii
Note: 1 degree tilt in horizon. Not so evident because the model is straight.
Reasonable sharpness considering High ISO 1/15 and handheld.
If you wanted to shoot this scene only you would:
A)use a tripod.
B)use a 100 ISO
c)use maybe f14 as my aperture.(f16 was still ok here)
d) increased your shutter to say 15-30 seconds.
One thing that is incorrect in the Camera data is the flash fired data. I was using a Pocket wizard with off camera flash for this shot and turned off the flash but not the Flex on top of my camera. (Hence the camera thought the flash fired.)
I shot this scene at a lower ISO and use it for a digital background for composites.
Russ Elkins
Depending on how your camera works at High ISO's you can get by without a tripod(Handheld) in a pinch. I did this as one of my rule breaker shots. You need to hold the camera correctly and have a very steady hand to shoot at 1/15 at 35mm. I would recommend a tripod. When you have a model in the picture shooting at longer exposures is almost impossible. Every situation is different.
Picture shot in manual. Shot with the Kit lens on a 5DMKii
Note: 1 degree tilt in horizon. Not so evident because the model is straight.
Reasonable sharpness considering High ISO 1/15 and handheld.
If you wanted to shoot this scene only you would:
A)use a tripod.
B)use a 100 ISO
c)use maybe f14 as my aperture.(f16 was still ok here)
d) increased your shutter to say 15-30 seconds.
One thing that is incorrect in the Camera data is the flash fired data. I was using a Pocket wizard with off camera flash for this shot and turned off the flash but not the Flex on top of my camera. (Hence the camera thought the flash fired.)
I shot this scene at a lower ISO and use it for a digital background for composites.
Russ Elkins
A walk to remember 2012
Camera Data
Nov 3, 2012 18:08:26 #
Thank you all for your responses.. I will incorporate some of these thoughts into my next effort.. I have mirror "lock-up" and timer capability.. Not sure about turning off the image stabilizer.. Have to check that out.. Thanks again!
Nov 3, 2012 23:24:13 #
UltraPilot wrote:
Thank you all for your responses.. I will incorporate some of these thoughts into my next effort.. I have mirror "lock-up" and timer capability.. Not sure about turning off the image stabilizer.. Have to check that out.. Thanks again!
Vibration reduction switch is probably on the lens.
Nov 4, 2012 10:20:08 #
Lock your mirror up and and use a remote shutter release.Have fun.
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Nov 4, 2012 11:03:36 #
UltraPilot wrote:
I have done some no-flash film format night shooting, with some fairly decent results. But, for the life of me, I cannot take a decent digital night shot. Using a heavy Slik Tripod does not eliminate blurry lighting and I have tried several settings that have not worked. It just occurred to me that I have not tried "manual" using the settings I used with 35mm film. Not even sure I could set the camera up for that. I am using a Nikon D40X. Would certainly appreciate any help on this.
I always find my best results at night are at about f/10. Now understand that all night work, as I'm sure you know, involves time exposure. And with f/10 the exposure will be even longer.
A couple of tips. One, as mentioned, is f/10 set in aperture priority. I allow my Canon dslr to decide the exposure length. I choose either 100 or 200 ISO. The second is use your 10-second timer and let the camera do its thing. Even pressing the shutter release will cause blur. If the camera isn't disturbed at all I seem to get pretty good results.
I put some examples below... all shot at f/10 using the technique I described above. Good Luck
Nov 4, 2012 11:57:50 #
emptynestertraveler
Loc: North Carolina
What does the image stabilization do that is a problem here?
Nov 4, 2012 13:05:45 #
emptynestertravaler,It tries to correct movement but makes movement.I'm sure someone can explain it better....
Nov 4, 2012 20:50:19 #
the complete guide to digital Night & Low Light Photography by Tony Worobiec. is a great book and will ansewer all your questions.check it out.
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Nov 17, 2012 10:57:13 #
I have completed another night shoot of the John Ringling Causway and Sarasota across the Bay. Now I have to figure out how to post them for criticism.. Thanks again to all of you.. Bill
Partial Zoom
Original Shot
Closer Zoom
Nov 17, 2012 11:01:54 #
Nov 17, 2012 19:33:28 #
Only a week into my UHH membership and I've already learned so much! I googled "image stabilization in night photography" and got several good explanations. Here is one + a link to an article below this. "Image Stabilization (and vibration reduction) lenses look for vibrations in your camera in order to reduce it however if they dont find any (like when you are using a Tripod) they actually can cause it and as a result actually cause camera shake."
http://photonaturalist.net/when-not-to-use-lens-stabilization/
http://photonaturalist.net/when-not-to-use-lens-stabilization/
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