Nalu wrote:
I don’t use it much, but here is my take. If your subject has relative uniform light with a low dynamic range, the camera will probably do a pretty good job at getting a reasonable exposure. If on the other hand there are highlights in your image, like a white bird with a dark background, the camera might get faked out and not compensate and the bird (in this case) can be over exposed. Perhaps in this case, spot metering might help. But the fact is, you don’t have as much control. In an exposure situation like this, the histogram won’t even indicate the brightness of your subject and fake you out. So, for me, I like (and need) the control so I tend to stay away from the auto features of my camera, like auto iso.
I don’t use it much, but here is my take. If your... (
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I use spot metering for BIF, Wildlife & usually Auto ISO. But when shooting up torward a bright sky ( eg. Ospreys ) it will under expose the underside of the bird. I can pull up the shadows in post but sometimes rather go manual ISO & split the difference in under exposing the bottom of the Osprey & blowing out the sky . Only pull the shadows a little producing a cleaner photo.
I use it for Wildlife photography or would use it in general for changing light conditions like outside with moving clouds. I shoot with a D810 with a high limit set at 3200 & feel it works great most of the time. Other than that, I feel Manual ISO is better.
Lee Thomas wrote:
In setting up my Nikon D7500, I came across Auto ISO and would like to hear from anyone who has used this setting. For a test, I set the maximum ISO at 6400 and by default , as I understand it, the minimum was set at 100. I shot in Aperture mode at f/5.6 in RAW. The lens was a Nikon 50mm f/1.8. I shot in a variety of lighting conditions, interior and exterior, with some being quick "grab shots". Overall, I was pleased with the results even though I shoot using less automated control. I'll be happy to share the link with anyone who would like to see the results that show the ISO and shutter speed changes depending on lighting conditions.
Lee
In setting up my Nikon D7500, I came across Auto I... (
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Since getting My Df, I have been using Auto ISO with manual mode with the full range of ISO on my Df. It give me to control the shutter speed and the aperture freely.
BebuLamar wrote:
You didn't say which mode you used. P, S, A or M?
He said aperture mode in OP
Sidwalkastronomy wrote:
He said aperture mode in OP
Thanks I didn't see that.
In my D3 and D4, I have to be in Manual mode to use Auto ISO. If used properly, you cannot use Auto ISO in Aperture Mode. At least, not in my Nikon bodies.
I recently read where a pro said he uses "M" mode and auto ISO and dials in a 1.3 EC and holds those settings for almost every shot. His rational is that, since digital works best when exposed to the right (ETTR), white resides at that 1.3 EC setting so you don't get grey whites, you don't blow out reasonable highlights, and you don't have to keep fiddling with the controls except to change the intended effect such as a requirement for a faster shutter speed or a more open or closed aperture. I've used his technique some, especially when there's an overabundance of white in a shot like when the ground is covered with snow. It often becomes a bit fiddly with the shadows in a shot. Has anyone tried that technique. What would be reasonable arguments against it?
Lee Thomas wrote:
In setting up my Nikon D7500, I came across Auto ISO and would like to hear from anyone who has used this setting. For a test, I set the maximum ISO at 6400 and by default , as I understand it, the minimum was set at 100. I shot in Aperture mode at f/5.6 in RAW. The lens was a Nikon 50mm f/1.8. I shot in a variety of lighting conditions, interior and exterior, with some being quick "grab shots". Overall, I was pleased with the results even though I shoot using less automated control. I'll be happy to share the link with anyone who would like to see the results that show the ISO and shutter speed changes depending on lighting conditions.
Lee
In setting up my Nikon D7500, I came across Auto I... (
show quote)
I have used this method for years when taking action shots such as motorcycle trials where riders are going in and out of shade constantly. I usually set the camera to 1/1000, f3.5-8 as needed, and auto ISO. Results in a useable image virtually 100% of the time. I have a full frame camera that handles high ISO just fine.
gessman wrote:
I recently read where a pro said he uses "M" mode and auto ISO and dials in a 1.3 EC and holds those settings for almost every shot. His rational is that, since digital works best when exposed to the right (ETTR), white resides at that 1.3 EC setting so you don't get grey whites, you don't blow out reasonable highlights, and you don't have to keep fiddling with the controls except to change the intended effect such as a requirement for a faster shutter speed or a more open or closed aperture. I've used his technique some, especially when there's an overabundance of white in a shot like when the ground is covered with snow. It often becomes a bit fiddly with the shadows in a shot. Has anyone tried that technique. What would be reasonable arguments against it?
I recently read where a pro said he uses "M&q... (
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Except for not being so far to the right of the 0-mark, that's the process described above in my earlier post. Every model / brand is a bit different on where / how far to the right you can default. Most are fine a +0.7, others +1. Your photographer has found for their camera's RAW, +1.3 is best for their camera and their software recovery.
I have always used manual ISO to my satisfaction but I will give a try to AUTO ISO. It makes sense especially for action and wildlife.
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