GLSmith Loc: Tampa, Fl

take the weight of your largest lens & also of camera body make sure the tripod you're looking at is capable of supporting that weight...(Personally I add an extra 5 pounds). Twist lock is my personal preference.

Bison Bud

I'd say the most important thing would be what kind of budget you have for this purchase as prices and features can range considerably. However, for general use one can get a very serviceable tripod for around $100.00 if they shop around. It probably won't be carbon fiber, but aluminum is not much heavier and can be just as sturdy. Some really good advice offered up so far is to consider the biggest lens your going to want to use as when the weight and overall length of a lens goes up, stability goes down and a larger investment is going to be needed. Good luck and good shooting to all.

berchman Loc: South Central PA

The seller is suspect. Another Tiltall tripod by a reliable seller is
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174813006616

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Twist-lock or Flip-lock legs,
EVERYONE has an opinion which is best.
And they are right, for THEM....
Establish your own opinion.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

Although they are among the most expensive, the Really Right Stuff (RRS) site has some very good information on tripod considerations and would be well worth a read. Best of luck.

47greyfox Loc: on the edge of the Colorado front range

This is a subject (choice of tripods) that comes up a few times a year, whether travel or otherwise. Do a search here then fall asleep but before letting those eyes close, don’t talk yourself into “this one will do without fully thinking it out.” A tripod rated for 20 pounds means very little if it’s a vibration transmitter. A tripod need only be purchased once whether it be a travel version or more robust. Do NOT be penny wise and pound foolish. Ditto with whatever head you choose.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Interesting.
Fifteen-some years ago saw and I bought a ≈$65 tripod at Best Buy.
Some company made it. Can't tell you without looking at it. Don't care.
Strong enough to hold my cameras, I've no idea of how much it weighs, it weighs what it weighs.

So glad I didn't spend countless hours researching 50 brands, or listening to/reading 5,000 opinions, or spending $400 on a tripod.
Trying to decide what would be the best on to get.
And then wondering if I really did get the best one.

But that's just me.....

DanielJDLM

I have had a Manfrotto Carbon Fiber tripod which my wife purchased for me many years ago. On a recent photo day trip, I was not happy with the tripod for two reasons: had to keep bending over as the height was not adequate, and two, inaccurate placement of camera due to the ball head. I FINALLY decided to invest in a new tripod. After much research, I decided upon the Bucky by Three Legged Thing. Sure, it is heavier due to its magnesium alloys legs, but without extending the center column it is the perfect height. If need be, it can extend to over 70” with the center column raised. Was expensive, but well worth it!

MDI Mainer

This article address one of the basic questions you're asking.

https://shotkit.com/carbon-fiber-vs-aluminum-tripod/

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

I would not suggest a tripod for birds in flight, hand holding is still the best way. But if you must, I would suggest any sturdy tripod (there are hundreds to choose from) but get a Gimbal head for the tripod, the Gimbal can also be used for sports.
But again, most professionals and advanced photographer hand hold.
Shutter speeds above 1/2000 sec. is highly recommended.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

Cheap
Good
Light

Pick 2

Gitzo tripod and a gimbal head. My gimbal is a Benro.

mymike Loc: Tucson, AZ

I just bought a Benro (dont remember which model) Carbon Fiber tripod. And I bought a Fotopro Gimbal. I use it in my backyard for birds..mostly stationary. As someone said, for birds in flight, it is better to handhold. The tripod has twist locks and is 3 sections with a center column. Some have said that a center column is not stable enough and they recommend a tripod with 3 legs, 3 sections and no center column. I spent $350 on the tripod and $450 on the gimbal. My heaviest camera/lens is about 5 lbs/$5K. I didn't want to go cheap on supporting my gear.

uhaas2009

tripods and heads are the nerve wracking to find the right ones......I have a manfrotto 190 pro what I still use but the head I have the 3 or 4 on it. The one hand ball head survived till The grease dropped on the ball and I had to clean it- wasn't the problem but than I got the the FF body and the head start creeping. In one of the store I fund an old FOBA ball head ($75) what is heavy used and but solid, holds everything Put on it. Somebody gave me a MeMe tripod and the problem I have there are nobs what I mix up and I don't like when I tighten it the position of the Camera change it a bit.......I got a cheap gimbal head- need to figure out first if I like how it works, so far it makes sense. I put quick release on my manfrotto, now I can change all my the heads quickly- I love this part.....
When I balance my Foba with the camera and the lens then its good combination.....Its easy to spend $$$$$ but the right tool what you like and use takes trail and error

RJI

I just flew out to Yellowstone for a week and took my Manfrotto Befree in my carry-on. I hike with it often, shooting with a pro-summer video camera and an a99ii with a 400mm lens. Obviously not as stable as a heavier tripod, but the leveling is easy and quick and I can compensate for the lack of stability. Besides, who wants to hike for miles or up and down hills with a tripod that weighs more than three pounds?

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

As a professional photograher, I have more tripods than an average hobbyist. That's not to brag- it's just that in-studio and locations situations and many kinds and weights of cameras, there is not a "one size fits all" solution. For studio portraiture, I use a CAMERA STAND because its heavy base and vertical column make vertical positioning from the floor to near the ceiling very quick and efficient and a ball head makes creative tilts easy. So, if I have to do portraiture on location I try to find a tripod with some of those attributes. Wehn I need to address position as to height, I don't want to have to stop and adjust the legs so I need a tripod with enough height to accommodate a usual headshot or 3/4 lengh portrait and be able to quickly extend the center column if required.

Portraiture may not be your gig but this is an example of acquiring a tripod that addresses the kind of work YOU do.

If I need to shoot a horticultural subject like flowers or plants low to the ground or macro work of such subjects, I want a tripod with a reversible center column so I can support the camera within inches of the ground.
To maximize stability, if that center column accepts a hook at one end, I can add easily metal, sand or water-bag weights.

If you use a relatively HEAVY camera and long telephoto lenses, tripod selection should be not only based on its weight and strength alone but its GEOMETRY. I am not a structural engineer or physicist so I depend on some of the specifications, charts, and recommendations from the major tripod manufacturers like Gitzo and Manfrotto. It a matter of determining which tripod is best for the LOAD based on the angles of the legs that form a triangular base, the length of the center column that remains stable at any give extension and the general integrity of the build. In simple terms, you don't want a tripod that will wobble, sway, collapse, or falter in any of the leg joints or the elevator column or can not stabilize your camera at the height you require.

Many of the tripod recommendations mention that you should buy a tripod according to your height but that ain't the only consideration. You need a tripod that can address every possible camera heigh and position depending on the height you need to shoot from in any given situation. It could be inches from the floor or from a stepladder. Again, you must select a tripod that matches YOUR requirements. Not every shot can be may for YOUR standing eyelevel.

As for heads- again, there is no "one size fits all" applications. Most high-quality tripods have interchangeable head capabilities. Head selection depends on camera size and weight, your level of dexterity and hand strength in certain situations, requirements of agility of adjustment, and your own personal preferences of operation. Properties of any head to consider is positive locking, beag ability to operate with a certain degree of friction, the angle of tilting that is allowable, rotation and panning operation. For work where the is no need for fast operation and maximum stability, I prefer a tile/pan head. Where more nimble positioning is needed, I lie ball heads. I have several Monrortto and Swiss Acra models- all good all with nice quick-release mechanisms.

Of course, weight, compactness, portability, packing length are all important considerations. If you do lots of backpacking, nature, wildlife and landscape work, especially in rough or mountainous terrain you don't want to schlep somethg that could be used and an anchor or an anvil on your back. You may need to spend a bit more to buy a newfangled carbon fibre model where you get more strength per pound. If you go to most of your locations by automotive means and you have an assistant, like me an old man with a grey beard, I'd opt for a heaver model.

$$$$? Again, I am not gonna say this to be a wise guy- Do not buy a cheap poorly crafted tripod! If you are a frequent or heavy user or have oversized "wrench hands" like me, and tend to overtighten stuff, cheap support gear will not last very long or provide adaquette support while they last. Clamp and sleevelocks won't hold, the threads will strip, joints will come apart and cameras and lenses become damaged.

Inthe last 30 years, I have used Gitzo and Manfrotto tripods and light stands. I have had no serious breakdown issues. I can still acquire replacement parts for my old tripods and stands. I'm sure the are many otere currently available brands that are good but I have no personal experience.

55 years ago, I purchase a Majestic Tripod- the salesman said "you could mount a house on this thing"- I liked his hyperbole so, I bought it. I still have and use it. It has add-on extension legs so I can use it for a fairly high stepladder. The tilt-head is gear/crank driven and can easily handle an 8x10 view camera. If you can find a used one and want to work out without paying gym fees- there are many on the used market. They are made of "iron" and replace nuts and bolts an be had at your local hardware store or your local armour/artillery supply house.


No matter what brand and model you buy, improper usage and maintenance will defeat its purpose and price. You need to know how to balance the load, especially with long lenses and mounting collars. Even the most well-constructed support gear will malfunction or fail if they are no properly and frequently maintained. After a dirty or messy assignment like those I do in factories and construction sites, I make sure to clean off any grease, dirt, grime, goo, water, mud, or any abrasive material lies sand or grit on surfaces and especially in joints, locks and sleves . A quick spray with silicone or a similar formulated non-greasy lubricant goes a long way. Loose screws, nuts and bolts, washers, are tightened and worn parts are replaced before they worsen.

If you take care of your tripods, they will take care of you. If you neglect them- they will cause you much pain! Ever have a tilt-head come loose, lunge forward and land a big DSLR and a 600mm lens on your hand- you will see the ghost of your great, great grandmother from the agony!

If you can get Gene 51 to chime in, he has some great math and geometry on tripod selection.