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Experience with prime lens on Crop Bodies
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Jun 26, 2021 13:17:57   #
BebuLamar
 
User ID wrote:
Nope. No data required. You are wrong to polarize opinion vs data. The great middle ground, whose value you seem to deny, is occupied by common sense.


And I thought there is no such thing as common sense.

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Jun 26, 2021 13:26:07   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
BebuLamar wrote:
And I thought there is no such thing as common sense.


It’s just increasingly uncommon

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Jun 26, 2021 13:26:30   #
User ID
 
Regardless of too much technobabble both for and against it, the resulting photographs never visibly suffer from the “mismatch”. Actual photographs tend to defy geekish predictions.

Usually the ergonomics are less than ideal, but thaz a matter of degree, case by case, usually no big deal.

The usual reasons for using a mismatch are gear already on hand, cost, gear available to buy, special features, etc etc. The reasons are many and none of them, for or against, are about optical quality.

(There may be small differences optically, but way too small to consider as decisive REASONS for or against.)

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

If I put my 1989 Canon 35/2.0 EF on my Sony a6500 as its normal lens, I have my reasons, and no one can assemble a better version of that kit, for any $$, judged by resulting images. Would I rather have a native lens ? Yes. If you give me one I will use it. But it won’t enhance the “imaging power” of the kit.

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Jun 26, 2021 13:46:49   #
repleo Loc: Boston
 
bigguytf wrote:
Does anyone have experience with using either a 20mm 2.8 or 24mm 2.8 canon lens on a Canon 1.6 camera.
Is it worth getting a wide angle prime lens to use on a crop body or just use a wide angel zoom? I know from experience that usually a prime lens gives you a better capture but with wide angle does it also work out that way?
I have a Canon 10-18 but I was thinking about investing in a 20mm or 24mm 2.8 prime. But if I would not see a significant difference in picture quality it might not be worth the money.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Does anyone have experience with using either a 20... (show quote)


One of the things that distinguishes great lenses (ie expensive) lenses from other lenses is how they perform in the corners and edges of the frame. Since the crop sensor will be cropping off the edges of the image, there is no (or not much) point in paying a premium for the edge performance of a high end FF lens over a middle of the road model.

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Jun 26, 2021 14:35:16   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
bigguytf wrote:
Does anyone have experience with using either a 20mm 2.8 or 24mm 2.8 canon lens on a Canon 1.6 camera.
Is it worth getting a wide angle prime lens to use on a crop body or just use a wide angel zoom? I know from experience that usually a prime lens gives you a better capture but with wide angle does it also work out that way?
I have a Canon 10-18 but I was thinking about investing in a 20mm or 24mm 2.8 prime. But if I would not see a significant difference in picture quality it might not be worth the money.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Does anyone have experience with using either a 20... (show quote)


I have the Canon EF 20mm f/2.8 and it's a pretty good lens from the film days.

I like it as a mild wide angle on an APS-C camera (50D, with B+W C-Pol filter):



But it also works well as an "ultra wide" on a full frame camera (lighthouse with C-Pol filter, sunset without filter):



(Where available, I included enlarged sections of the images to better show details at Internet resolutions. Images make fine 11x14" to 12x18" prints.

Although I like it, I am reluctant to recommend it since you already have the very capable Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM lens. That lens is about equally compact and light, and like most zooms today is able to make excellent images, so unless you reaaalllly need the f/2.8 aperture, I would think it just duplication of what you've already got. The same is true of the Canon 24mm lenses (there are actually five or six different ones). The EF 24mm f/2.8 IS USM would give you faster maximum aperture and a little bit higher performance USM focus drive, but that's about all you'd gain with it. The EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM "pancake" is super small, also has the faster max aperture and would make a nice lens for street photography, but you would be giving up image stabilization. There are also a couple versions of EF 24mm f/1.4L lenses and two different TS-E 24mm f/3.5 tilt shift lenses (manual focus), all of which are much larger and heavier and significantly more expensive, so I suspect aren't what you're seeking.

Probably the one thing you'd see little of is image quality improvement. In fact, your 10-18mm is probably sharper in the corners than the old EF 20mm f/2.8 when it's used "wide open" (the soft corners are cut off when this full frame capable lens is used on an APS-C camera... but you can see them on full frame/film). I haven't used all the different 24mm lenses (only have a TS-E 24mm presently), so can't give you detailed comparisons with those. I suggest you read Bryan's reviews at the-digital-picture.com, where he specializes in Canon gear, has reviewed most of it over the years and provides test shots, product specs, vignetting, distortion and flare tests that you can compare side by side with the lens you've got.

By the way, the slightly larger, heavier and more expensive Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM is also an excellent wide angle zoom. I've used one for many years now and really like it. It is a bit better built, has USM focus drive and provides a moderately faster max aperture across the entire range, but doesn't make for noticeably better image quality than the lens you've got.

In the end, unless you need a larger lens aperture or were switching to a full frame camera right now, I'd just recommend you continue to work with what you've got. This isn't a knock against any of the above lenses.... it's actually high praise for the inexpensive but very capable EF-S 10-18mm you've got.

One suggestion... if you don't already have them, get the matched lens hood for your 10-18mm and use it. Also get a high quality Circular Polarizer to use on it (though in some situations it can cause uneven effects, as can be seen in the sky in the lighthouse pic above... I recommend the B+W XS-Pro or F-Pro filters as a really good value... top quality at a significantly lower price than comparable filters... But i also recently bought a couple REALLY inexpensive "made-in-China" K&F Concept "Green" C-Pol filters to try out, since they claim to use the same German Schott glass and have similar multi-coatings as top-of-the-line B+W filters.)

By the way, here are a couple more shots of the same lighthouse that were done with my EF 20mm f/2.8 lens on full frame camera. The larger one is an old shot done on film nearly 20 years ago, while the smaller is a more recent digital image. Both were single shots that were cropped to a more panoramic format.




(BTW..l. No, I didn't Photoshop in the flight of pelicans over the lighthouse in the one image. I was just really, really lucky!)

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Jun 26, 2021 15:09:12   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
TriX wrote:
With all due respect, I believe you are misunderstanding the specification and the principle. Read the DXO testing methodology and understand their “sharpness” measurement (and the resolution specs for the D500 and the D800) and all will hopefully become clear. You can pick almost any FF lens you like and it will be capable of producing a higher resolution final result in DXO’s sharpness testing on a higher resolution body (FF or crop) unless the lens is so poor that it is the limiting factor.


To avoid confusion you should use the correct company name. DXOMark tests and compares lenses and cameras. DXO, actually DXO Labs, is the owner of PhotoLab, PureRAW and the Nik Collection. DXOMark and DXO Labs are two separate and distinct companies and have had no ties between them since 2017.

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Jun 26, 2021 15:35:47   #
User ID
 
BebuLamar wrote:
And I thought there is no such thing as common sense.

Been here too long maybe ..... ?

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Jun 26, 2021 15:59:41   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
User ID wrote:
Regardless of too much technobabble both for and against it, the resulting photographs never visibly suffer from the “mismatch”. Actual photographs tend to defy geekish predictions.

Usually the ergonomics are less than ideal, but thaz a matter of degree, case by case, usually no big deal.

The usual reasons for using a mismatch are gear already on hand, cost, gear available to buy, special features, etc etc. The reasons are many and none of them, for or against, are about optical quality.

(There may be small differences optically, but way too small to consider as decisive REASONS for or against.)

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

If I put my 1989 Canon 35/2.0 EF on my Sony a6500 as its normal lens, I have my reasons, and no one can assemble a better version of that kit, for any $$, judged by resulting images. Would I rather have a native lens ? Yes. If you give me one I will use it. But it won’t enhance the “imaging power” of the kit.
Regardless of too much technobabble both for and a... (show quote)


And the EF 35 f2 is an excellent, sharp lens - as a matter of fact, I am buying one next week (wish I could find a refurb from Canon).

As you say, there are a myriad of reasons other than any differences in IQ. I have both an FF and crop system, and even though I can use my FF Canon lenses on my Fuji with an inexpensive adapter, I choose not to, because I bought the Fuji for its small size and weight for travel, and I wouldn't compromise that with a larger, heavier lens. It’s more expensive to replicate my existing lenses in crop format, but if I were willing to put up with the weight of FF lenses in a given situation, I’d just take the FF body as well.

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Jun 26, 2021 16:06:00   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
mwsilvers wrote:
To avoid confusion you should use the correct company name. DXOMark tests and compares lenses and cameras. DXO, actually DXO Labs, is the owner of PhotoLab, PureRAW and the Nik Collection. DXOMark and DXO Labs are two separate and distinct companies and have had no ties between them since 2017.


Tough crowd. Since the poster I was responding to was using DXOMark tests to make his argument, I was pretty sure he and anyone reading both posts would understand my “shorthand”, but I’m all for precise verbiage

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Jun 26, 2021 16:17:25   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
TriX wrote:
And the EF 35 f2 is an excellent, sharp lens - as a matter of fact, I am buying one next week (wish I could find a refurb from Canon).

As you say, there are a myriad of reasons other than any differences in IQ. I have both an FF and crop system, and even though I can use my FF Canon lenses on my Fuji with an inexpensive adapter, I choose not to, because I bought the Fuji for its small size and weight for travel, and I wouldn't compromise that with a larger, heavier lens. It’s more expensive to replicate my existing lenses in crop format, but if I were willing to put up with the weight of FF lenses in a given situation, I’d just take the FF body as well.
And the EF 35 f2 is an excellent, sharp lens - as ... (show quote)


I assume that User ID is referring the older 35mm f/2, introduced in 1990 and you are referring to the larger and newer version, the EF 35mm f/2 IS USM released in 2012. I use the newer version on my Canon 7D Mark II. It is a stellar lens. Although I have numerous lenses that I use on that body, my favorites in addition to the newer Canon 35mm f/2, are the Canon 15-85, and the absolutely fantastic, but large and heavy, Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8.

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Jun 26, 2021 16:22:21   #
BebuLamar
 
User ID wrote:
Been here too long maybe ..... ?


No! That's always been my belief.

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Jun 26, 2021 16:26:11   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
TriX wrote:
Tough crowd. Since the poster I was responding to was using DXOMark tests to make his argument, I was pretty sure he and anyone reading both posts would understand my “shorthand”, but I’m all for precise verbiage


I wasn't trying to be nitpicky but you might be surprised how many people confuse the two companies. As a beta tester for DXO Labs. I've seen a number of posts on their site from people asking questions about DXOMark ratings or complaining about them. Even on UHH that is a perception by some people that they are the same company. I was just attempting to clarify the differences between them, if not for you, then for others.

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Jun 26, 2021 18:29:11   #
joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois
 
TriX wrote:
With all due respect, I believe you are misunderstanding the specification and the principle. Read the DXO testing methodology and understand their “sharpness” measurement (and the resolution specs for the D500 and the D800) and all will hopefully become clear. You can pick almost any FF lens you like and it will be capable of producing a higher resolution final result in DXO’s sharpness testing on a higher resolution body (FF or crop) unless the lens is so poor that it is the limiting factor.


It all breaks down when considering the crop factor. Crop sensor images need to be enlarged by the crop factor when viewing. Enlarging shows all the flaws and negates any advantage real or imagined.

Its just theory unless you can support it with factual data.

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Jun 26, 2021 19:08:08   #
Sidwalkastronomy Loc: New Jersey Shore
 
I have the 24 and 40 Canon pancake prime lens and love them. The are perfect street photography walk around lens. Both very light and work well with my Canon 77D camera

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Jun 26, 2021 20:16:30   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
TriX wrote:
Cool. My solution was to buy an (as new) EOS-1N (would have bought a -1V if I had found one) for a whopping $100, and all my EOS lenses for my DSLR work perfectly and auto focus - best of both worlds.


That is the beauty of the Canon system.
Every EF lens no matter how old works 100% with every EOS camera including the RF cameras.
And the newest and greatest EF lenses work 100% with the oldest original EOS camera.

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