alexol

That makes sense, thank you.

I will rely on my research then.

Part of the issue, obviously, is that camera gear - like a lot of other things - really requires some extended use before you can know whether it really what you wanted.

Lotta divorced people out there too;)

I don't know who said it first but there's a wonderful line in a Sheryl Crowe song, and I paraphrase: it isn't getting what you want that matters, it's wanting what you've got.

Nonetheless, there's been quite a bit of interesting advice, and it has opened my eyes to some different makes. It's been many years since I've bought anything other thAn Nikon or Canon flashes, and probably time for a stretch!

Miamark Loc: Florida

I have the Flashpoint TTL mini for Fuji, marketed by Adorama, which is the same unit as the Godox TT350f. I use it on a Fuji Xt2 on camera. It is great. Has bounce capability, zoom, TTL, eye highlight, diffuser and off camera capability. I got the version with the Li-Ion rechargeable battery. Faster re-charging and greater number of flashes than AAs or rechargeable AAs. It is made for Fuji and 100 per cent compatible. (They also make models for other manufacturers; just get the Fuji version). I think that the Fujis and Nissans are overpriced. I can’t speak to the Mecablitz. I had the Fuji EF-X20 and returned it. Good luck with your choice.

alexol

I woke up this morning just about having decided on that unit and your post - along with it's amazingly low price - seals the deal.

I'll go with non-Li version as I can usually buy batteries just about anywhere, and I already have way too many things to charge. Plus I might not use it for a couple of months but they want it to be ready go RIGHT NOW - can always drop in batteries at a moments notice.

And it's REALLY hard to argue with around $85 instead of the truly silly amounts I've spent in the past for a flash.

Thanks!

Miamark Loc: Florida

I think that you will be pleased with your choice and your reasoning makes complete sense. The non Li-Ion version has a full 360 degree rotation. I really like mine and I use flash primarily for fill when it is on camera either with the included diffuser or the pop up white card. I found that the flash that came with my Fuji camera really did not serve that purpose Best.

BebuLamar

It does matter which flash unit is used. You said you use the Nikon SB25 and TTL you must be using a film camera? because the SB25 won't work with any digital camera in TTL (perhaps may be the old Fuji S series?).

alexol

Not sure where the SB25 came from - I had a 700, I think it was, with a D850.

BebuLamar

That's what Sebates said not you said. I quoted him didn't you see?

alexol

Sorry, using my phone today and it doesn't always show quoted messages.

May better to skip the new flash and get a better phone!

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

[quote=alexol]First, I know that on-camera flash isn't necessarily the best option, but that is the topic on which I'm seeking advice.

I excerpted this first sentence from your post because it contains an invalid assumption. There is nothing wrong with on-camer flash, providing o you know how to use it. There as all kinds of bad assumptions and mythology about flash usage. On-camera flas has to been successfully used for decades by press, wedding, event, photoghrers and serious photojournalists and nature shooters with excellent and natural results. All you need is a good-quality reliable Speedlight with certain features and some knowhow and you are good to go

Here are some techniques that can be easily performed with an on-camera Speedlight: wall and ceiling bounce, partial bounce, use of on-camera modifiers, careful blending of flash and ambient light, and flash-fill in daylight conditions. If you add a few accessories like an over-the-lens-flip bracket, you can elevate the Speedlight above the lens far enough to improve some modelling, slightly extend the depth of lighting, helping to avoid reflections in eyeglasses and red-eye, and eliminate unwanted background shadows.

If you purchase a more advanced Speedlight with a round and interchangeable reflector and user-changeable flash tube you will get better beam-spread, gain access to more modification techniques and enable bare-bulb omnidirection lighting.

All of the enforcement techiqes are methods of precluding the disadvantages of on-camera flash and negating flat and uninteresting lighting. If you get good at someof this, you can always add a second unt for multiple and off-camera lighting techniques.

FLASH NEWS FLASH! Many of the so-called name-brand or domestic Speedlight are made in China. Many of our favourite camera companies outsource their flash manufacturing. Many of the popular Godox, Flashpoint and similar brands do not exhibit the erratic quality control issues of earlier Chineses imports. Your choice should depend on the frequency of usage. If you go with a Godox model and use your flash occasionally or in moderate casual usage, it will give you many years of service. It may, in fact, stand up in professional service. If however, you require "heavy-duty" service like daily usage and long shoots, I would recommend the Metz products or one of the domestic brands lie Lumadyne or Q-Flash- these are significantly more costly.

Whatever brand you decide on, make sure it has these features so you can maximize its potential for better lighting. Make sure it has a full complement of swivel and bounce positions. Of course, make certain it is compatible with the TTL exposure control circuitry of your camera. Be sure that an extension hot-shoe cable is available if you should want to handhold or bracket the unt off camera. You may want to have HSS compatibility shod would wat ti use to Speedlight above the camera's maximum sync speed. Inqure as to if the unts has a built-in command or trigger system to coordinate with a second off-camer unit.

POWER: Unlike their studio and moonlight counterparts, most Speedlight is not rated in watt-seconds or BCPS specifications. Guide numbers are publsihed but much of this is subject to test and variation. Some of the more inexpensive models may pack as little as 40-watt seconds, which would not be adequate for many bounce and modifier applications- just not enough oomph! The better units aver around 80-watt seconds which is better for most applications where you need to bounce, modify the light or use a lower ISO setting and/or secure more depth of field.

alexol

Thank you for your thoughtful and detailed post, much appreciated.

I hope you noticed that my first sentence was carefully written to leave the door open for the alternative, that sometimes on-camera flash in fact is the best option. And for my needs, usually it is.

Donkeys years ago, I had a tiny, tiny hot shoe flash which basically provided little more than a catch-light in my subjects eyes - loved it for casual outdoor family photos. And a touch of over-exposure if you weren't careful!

Generally, I like flash as a simple adjunct to daylight photography, again mostly casual stuff, trying to soften harsh shadows without getting complicated.

Thanks again. I read your posts very carefully as they as always interesting, informative and educational for me.

Xpatch Loc: New York, Antigua, GT.

Godoxand Fuji has some