Boy, this thread has brought out some products and techniques from the past--Pako, Heco etc. some good some bad! I don't think PhotoFlo will cause any problems if used for a short time--it's really just a mild detergent. However one word of warning, anything with the words Kodak & stabilizer should be avoided. I spent many months working in the stuff as the final bath/chemical in the E3 process. It was basically detergent (PhotoFlo) and formalin (embalming fluid). After a few months of working in the stuff, (and it had to be pretty much hands on or in), I started getting really nasty skin problems. I can't get near the stuff now--basically the detergent opens the pours/grain and the formalin soaks in. So the stuff in close contact, will kill you eventually plus it was used in wood paneling where the airborne fumes will do the same thing (think mobile home paneling, wood flooring, fire proofing fabrics and FEMA trailers)
Bob Werre wrote:
Boy, this thread has brought out some products and techniques from the past--Pako, Heco etc. some good some bad! I don't think PhotoFlo will cause any problems if used for a short time--it's really just a mild detergent. However one word of warning, anything with the words Kodak & stabilizer should be avoided. I spent many months working in the stuff as the final bath/chemical in the E3 process. It was basically detergent (PhotoFlo) and formalin (embalming fluid). After a few months of working in the stuff, (and it had to be pretty much hands on or in), I started getting really nasty skin problems. I can't get near the stuff now--basically the detergent opens the pours/grain and the formalin soaks in. So the stuff in close contact, will kill you eventually plus it was used in wood paneling where the airborne fumes will do the same thing (think mobile home paneling, wood flooring, fire proofing fabrics and FEMA trailers)
Boy, this thread has brought out some products and... (
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Photographic chemicals are all dangerous to some degree. Some are mildly irritating, others are toxic, and many are corrosive and/or virulent poisons. The should all be handled with care with protective clothing, gloves and eyewear. Some can diffuse through the skin or emit dangerous fumes. Most serious problems result in form careless use of long terms exposure without protection. Some colour print stabilizers contain formaldehyde but soaking the occasional print while using gloves in a well-ventilated area should not cause health issues.
None of the stuff, even in its diluted form should ever be allows to contact your skin or eyes and any vapours of fumes should no be inhaled. Folks that are susceptible to various allergies or tend to develop contact dermatitis from many household cleaners, etc. should avoid these chemicals and stick with a digital method to restore photograhs.
Photo flow was originally sold to prevent water spots on a drying print.
paul lehmann wrote:
Photo flow was originally sold to prevent water spots on a drying print.
Photo Flo is a WETTING AGENT. It is formulated to promote even spotless drying of the film.
It decreases water surface tension and minimizes water marks and drying streaks on film, and may speed drying. A 30-second immersion with extremely gentle agitation at the recommended dilution is all that is required.
It does have a detergent action and can be used to re-wash negatives and transparencies that have become soiled.
TriX
Loc: Raleigh, NC
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Photo Flo is a WETTING AGENT. It is formulated to promote even spotless drying of the film.
It decreases water surface tension and minimizes water marks and drying streaks on film, and may speed drying. A 30-second immersion with extremely gentle agitation at the recommended dilution is all that is required.
It does have a detergent action and can be used to re-wash negatives and transparencies that have become soiled.
👍👍 indispensable (to me) for preventing water marks on film.
TMcL wrote:
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I have found a shop in the next village that will undertake this for me.
Just first do a scan (or five) through the glass. At least that way you will have something, if it goes bad.
quixdraw wrote:
Before you do anything else, gently clean the exterior glass and get the best digital shots you can of the photos in place! CYA!
Amen to Quixdraw's comment. Before (actually IMHO instead of) trying any suggested method to remove the photo from the glass, try finding an area without glare and photograph it digitally.
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