Swap out the entire pulley. Lots less work and probably not much more expensive than a new bearing.
I'm a retired mechanical guy and I've pulled a countless number of bearings that are press-fit so perhaps one of this tactic may help:
IF...you have access to the back side, take a piece of 1/2" thread rod about two foot long. Slide a 6-inch 3/4" pipe nipple over it. Put a washer larger than the center hub of the bearing on the back side and put a nut on it. Place a large washer and nut on the top end.
What you have just made is what is referred to in the autobody business as a "Dent Puller". Slam the pipe nipple against the top washer and the impact will nudge the bearing out of its pressed fit.
Method Two...if you can't get to the back side of the bearing....bend the 1/2" rod in hook so that you can insert it into the bearing and use the same impact method. Move the "hook" around from slam to slam so that the bearing pulls out evenly. Again, it is an impact puller.
Since you have experience with pullers, you would simply use a hacksaw with an appropriate blade and cut through the darn thing. If that doesn’t release it, then make another cut and remove a segment of the bearing.
Doc Barry wrote:
Since you have experience with pullers, you would simply use a hacksaw with an appropriate blade and cut through the darn thing. If that doesn’t release it, then make another cut and remove a segment of the bearing.
Really ? cut a bewaring with a hacksaw?
Besides there is no room for a hacksaw blade!!!
Diamond blade. Flip the blade and mount blade after inserting it through the bearing. Saber saw a possibility too.
Heat around the alum with a propane torch. Alum expands at about 1/8" per foot and the steel at 3/32: per foot. It should be enough difference to manage to free the bearing. Other than that try a dremel tool with a cut off wheels and work at cutting the bearing races enough to pry the balls out then the center would be free and you can finish the outer race with the cutoff wheel. It will be a large pain.
There are things called bearing pullers.
Doc Barry wrote:
Diamond blade. Flip the blade and mount blade after inserting it through the bearing. Saber saw a possibility too.
Please read all of the original post:
The hole don't go all the way through!!!
wasatch wrote:
There are things called bearing pullers.
Which I own many that I know how to use !!!
And did use This morning.
HEAT THE OUTSIDE WITH A SMALL PROPANE TORCH, OR COOL THE INSIDE
Manglesphoto wrote:
How would you go about getting the bearing out of the pulley.
There is no access to the top side of the bearing. The pulley is aluminum so very high heat is out of the question,
The hub came out of the bearing with a little coaxing with a pair of lady slipper pry bars
The assembly is off of a Boice Crane Drill press, mod.1600, age unknown, I bought it last summer for $75, tried it out when I got home and it had some bearing noise,I decided to dive into it yesterday and it really had a lot of bearing noise, a new bearing is a little less than $30 +. shipping or I can pick it up the next time I'M in St.Louis.
I'M going to use this press for wood only since my big drill press table usually has cutting oil on it someplace.
How would you go about getting the bearing out of ... (
show quote)
As a last resort, there are pullers that you insert into the ball bearing cavity, between the inner and outer races.
This would of course require removal of some of the cage at the appropriate (2 or 3) places which in itself is a bit of a mission.
The puller legs are turned through 90 degrees after insertion, which allows their heads to engage both the inner and outer races in the grooves where the balls run. At this point (I would place the whole assembly into a heated oil bath first) the bearing can then be 'pulled' out via jacking screws working against the outer (or inner) casing.
Suggest you talk to a bearing supplier to learn more, or better still, employ the services of an engineering co. who has this equipment. Doubt many will though.
Good luck!
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