Najataagihe

If heating it doesn't work, you are going to have to destroy that bearing.

Get a dent puller with a sheet metal screw in the end of it.

Twist the screw between the outer race and the ball bearings.

One of two things will happen.

Either the inner race and all the ball bearings will pop out, or if you're lucky, the edge of the outer bearing race will pop up a little bit.

If it does pop up, immediately stop and move the screw to the other side of the bearing.

Walk it out.

If, at any time, the bearing disintegrates, use a Dremel cut off wheel on the outer bearing race very carefully, cutting in three different places around the circumference.

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

I have used dry ice to shrink parts for installation. However I would have to drive 200 mile round trip to get dry ice, so I doubt that I will try it.
I believe I will try the heating in an oven first if that don't do it, then it will be the weld a nut to the bearing and use a slide hammer, I use this as a last resort mainly because over the last 10 yrs I have gotten a bit shaky and using my wire feed welder for close work is a bit dicey.
This is the same reason I use a tripod for every think except flash photography.

John N Loc: HP14 3QF Stokenchurch, UK

That puller thingy would have been my option. Tool hire shop might be best bet.

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

I don't need to buy or rent tools,I have more pullers than one man can carry.
When I get this thing out I will post an image.

DaleBrown

If this is a blind pocket, you would still need clearance behind it to get a puller in there, even if you could get one through the I.D.. Heating can work, but you still need a way to pull it out. A small enough 90 degree pry bar will work even though you would be pulling up on inner race of bearing assembly only. That is not a problem as you are replacing bearing anyway. Rubber wheel cutting is an option also, enough to release captured ball bearings. It can be done, good luck.

alberio Loc: Casa Grande AZ

Your picture doesn't give enough view of the entire assembly, but it seems to me the shaft still inside the bearing would have to be pressed or driven out of the bearing allowing the use of a inside puller. Send it to me and I'll get er done.

Lonnie77 Loc: Kennedale, Texas

If you can't use and inner bearing puller then use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. If the back side is solid use wet paper towels, a punch that is a tight fit to the inner bore and a hammer, hydraulic using water.

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

Dale, First thing if I could have gotten a blind hole puller in the bearing this topic would not have been posted.
I went out to the shop this morning with the intent of heating the whole assembly in a smoker I use to cure Cera-Kote, and using shock by slamming the pulley down on a board, then the concern of damaging the pulley I went with welding a nut to the bearing and using a slide hammer puller and I hit a home run.
I will be creating an update to the first post in just an few mins.

steve Loc: Iowa

yes, Heat.

Drbobcameraguy Loc: Eaton Ohio

So if I'm looking at the pics correctly the small pic in front has the bearing in the larger round part at the bottom with the sleeve for lack of a better term heading up. The large pic of the bearing is the upsidedown pic of the smaller one showing the bearing. I also am a mechanic for a day or two. I would heat it with a torch with a heating head or bud and careful heat it uniformly. Put a wet rag in the center of the bearing to keep it as cool as possible. Get a piece of pipe or something larger than the bearing but still fits the pulley. Once hot with welding gloves grab the stem on slam it down on the steel piece to allow the bearing to fall out per say. Otherwise take a wiz wheel and cut it out. Destroy the bearing insides and cut the race out with a carbide thin disk. We called them whiz wheels. Air or even a dremel has that attachment. My larger one is 3 inches in diameter and a little less than an eighth inch thick. The Dremel ones are a half inch diameter and thin as heck. Once you get a nice groove cut you can use a chisel to split the race because it is hardened steel and will crack when hit a bit. Then take it out. If you can't get a number off the race to cross take the pieces and the center prices to a good automotive store. Think napa or such not AutoZone and they should be able to match something up. I had a trailer that I had issues matching and it was because the previous owner put aircraft bearings in to make sure they lasted longer. Lol. Pm me if you want to talk I will give you my number

StanMac Loc: Tennessee

Good solution!

Something like that tool is used to pull out dents in auto body work, I think.

Stan

ecobin Loc: Paoli, PA

Frank, I assume that you've tried penetrating oil (such as Liquid Wrench) but since it's worked well for me over many years I thought I should mention it.

Abo

Yep, slide hammer was my first thought too

JBRIII

The bearing may even have been put in that way. Cool the bearing and place in slightly undersized hole. I did it once with a shaft that was slipping in the bearing. If so, going to he real tight. Liquid N2 would be good, cool bearing faster, but don't know where one would get it.

Final solution grind or cut bearing out, slow and tedious, but once race removed, might be easier for rest, or grind away again.

Drbobcameraguy Loc: Eaton Ohio

When I used to rebuild the front axles on strip mine trucks. Talking BIG TRUCKS I would put the bearings in drums of dry ice and freeze them for 30 minutes. Then with gloves grab them and run aross the shop and drop them in. When they reached room temp you could not remove them except by putting the piece in an oven and heating the entire assembly to 450 degrees f then they would fall out. Since they were a foot or more in diameter it was amazing how much a circular object would expand or contract based on temp. Rimple in Kansas was the name of the company. I hired on to do all the electronics and hydraulics on a prototype machine call the Floton. It was designed to carry supplies and equipment across the Alaskan tundra. We made 2 of them. Amazing machines and they would float fully loaded with a compliment of 13 passengers and 2 drivers. Really cool stuff it was