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Nikon D300S metering
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Apr 12, 2021 05:42:32   #
billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
 
lhunt wrote:
I have finally been using my Nikon D300S regularly after buying it several years ago. My problem is with metering, particularly for landscapes during the day. I am traveling and take photos out the passenger window of the car or while on the move hiking or whatever. I rarely have minutes to set up a shot. I shoot in manual and mostly use the single focus window so I can choose what is in focus. Most of the time using the camera meter, my photos are 1-4 stops over exposed. I try to check the exposure using the photo playback on the camera, but it is difficult to see in the sunshine. If I have time take several exposures of the same shot.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
I have finally been using my Nikon D300S regularly... (show quote)


Matrix metering, the best metering system know to man, or women.

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Apr 12, 2021 06:14:27   #
ELNikkor
 
1-4 stops is horrendous! Don't mess with histograms, stay with AF-S (those trees aren't running around!), single point for focus. If the lighting is constant, (no scattered clouds racing across the sky), take a photo, look at the screen, adjust the exposure once or twice to get it right, (takes less than 30 seconds!), then keep shooting, monitoring the shots each time. When I do this in auto-aperture mode, if it over exposes, I just "plus" or "minus" the exposure compensation adjuster to the appropriate amount for the "feel" I'm looking for, (takes less than 10 seconds).

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Apr 12, 2021 06:33:22   #
Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC
 
"...Most of the time using the camera meter, my photos are 1-4 stops over exposed..." lhunt I have and shoot a Nikon D300... It paid for itself long ago...

That said there is a very dangerous menu option in CUSTOM SETTING MENU
b Metering/exposure
d5 Fine tune optimal exposure

Please verify that this has not been set.
Warning! It affects ALL metering methods...
And even worse it is NOT RESET with the standard Two Button reset.

This menu option is likely the most dangerous menu option in the Nikon D300s

Hope this helps lhunt...
Enjoy your stellar camera, only the D500 has a robust build quality equal to the D300 series in Nikon's DX line.

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Apr 12, 2021 06:59:55   #
BebuLamar
 
Make sure you're not using spot metering mode.

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Apr 12, 2021 08:34:34   #
Bayou
 
Grahame wrote:
...The 'Matrix Metering' mode (which averages the entire framing scene) is very good on the D300 for general landscape work...





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Apr 12, 2021 08:56:51   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
Use your Program (P) mode for snapshots out the car window. Set your ISO on at least 400 and metering to Matrix.

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Apr 12, 2021 09:09:07   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
larryepage wrote:
I'm going to try to slow us down a little bit here. First...you don't mention being unhappy with focus results, so I'm going to put that on the back burner for now. Second...you mention that you are shooting out the window of the car. I'm going to guess that means you are shooting while the car is underway. We'll come back and address challenges related to that in a minute. Third...you imply that that ALL of your images are overexposed. So let's start there. I can't deduce how experienced you are, so I'm going to try to say what follows pretty plainly. If it doesn't match your experience, I apologize in advance and will adjust our future communication accordingly.

The first step is to determine whether your camera is overexposing everything, or just those taken from the car. Go out in the back yard and experiment. Are those photographs overexposed? Take some that do not include any sky. Are they overexposed?

I would actually expect, when shooting from a car window, that any wrong exposures would be underexposed...as a result of accidentally metering on the sky, causing the landscape to be recorded too dark. This suggests to me that something may be dialed into Exposure Compensation that is causing the camera to give you a meter indication that leads you to overexposing your images. Fortunately, this is easy to check. Simply press the Exposure Compensation button (the one marked "+/-" immediately next to the shutter button). If you see any number other than "0" shown in the top display window, then you have exposure compensation dialed in. It can be easily removed by turning the main command dial (the one on the back of the camera).

Ordinarily I agree with more than 98% of what Gene says. But I disagree in this case. There is really no time when shooting from a moving car to deal with spot metering and making mental adjustments, even though that is quite a good way to meter under normal circumstances. Instead, I would use center-weighted metering to set exposure. It's the top of the three choices on the metering switch next to the viewfinder. As you learn, you can use the AE-L/AF-L button inside that selector switch ring to meter on one part of a scene, then recompose. Or with Exposure Compensation (+2 stops) and Spot Metering (the bottom choice) to quickly and easily do what Gene has suggested.

The last big questions you need to deal with are sensitivity (ISO) and shooting mode. If your car is moving, or even if you are stopped shooting through the window at what is almost always an awkward angle, you are going to need to use as fast a shutter speed as possible to control the movement of the camera (or the car). The D300 & D300s were quite a bit better than the cameras that came before them at using higher ISOs, but are a bit limited compared to today's cameras. Even so, you should be able to get pretty nice results at ISOs of 640 or even 800, and you might even be able to go a little bit higher. This will allow you to use higher shutter speeds to reduce the effects of motion. I would not use auto ISO with this camera. The range over which it can act is too limited to be of much real use.

So once you have the higher ISO dialed in, you need to establish your exposure. You don't tell us what lenses you have, so you are going to have to take this next material as guidance...you will have to adjust it based on the capability of your lens. The higher the shutter speed you can use (and where the lens has aperture available to respond), the better the results you are likely to get. With your camera your target is probably going to be somewhere around 1/400 or 1/800, depending on your lens. If it were me, I'd start with Program mode and look to see what kinds of exposures the camera is available to put together. Then I might switch to Shutter priority mode and see how fast I can go and still provide proper exposure (or I might just stay in Program mode).

Above all, don't get frustrated. What you are trying to do is difficult. Work to solve the basic problem first, then go on from there.
I'm going to try to slow us down a little bit here... (show quote)



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Apr 12, 2021 09:19:17   #
autofocus Loc: North Central Connecticut
 
I don't think anyone has suggested this above, but check you +EV setting, I believe it will impact exposure settings even in manual mode, you could be adding several stops because of a setting you, or someone had once done. Also, don't fully rely on the meter, and learn when it's time to either under, or overexpose a shot...and manual mode will let you do that quite easily. If the scene you are metering tends to be dark, underexpose the shot based on what the meter is showing, and I know, seems contrary to logic to underexpose a shot that's basically dark. It's all about reading the light, and being smarter than the meter. Good luck with the fix!

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Apr 12, 2021 09:23:37   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
Fotoartist wrote:
There are two elements to your focusing system on that camera. Focus mode and focus area. These are distinct and different aspects of focus.

If you really want to grab and shoot quickly study the focusing system, always keep it on Continuous focus mode. As far as Focus Area, that is dependent on your specific subject needs. But try using Auto ISO on manual, that's my recommendation for you to research.


If he’s not using BBF then I wouldn’t recommend always using continuous mode, depending on what he’s shooting. Unless he’s tracking moving subjects he should probably be in static mode. I recommend getting Steve Perry’s e-book on the Nikon autofocus system. As for his exposure woes, we’ll I think Steve Perry may also have an e-book on exposure.

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Apr 12, 2021 10:16:02   #
photoman43
 
Gene51 wrote:
You're welcome!


I loved my D300s. I suggest you Reset all of your settings and start over again. Make sure Exposure compensation is at 0, not Plus or Minus.

Then I would use Aperture Priority, Matrix metering, f8 or f11, take some pictures in sunlight. Then check the recorded image and actual exposure and compare it to the Sunny 16 rule. At ISO 100, at f16, your shutter speed should be 1/100 in bright sun. Or f11, 1/250, ISO 100--same exposure.

If the camera exposures are very different it could be the lens--stuck aperture. Try a different lens and see what happens.

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Apr 12, 2021 15:58:39   #
AnthonyBiss Loc: Toronto, Ontario
 
I set my D300s to back-button focus, F8/F11, C mode, and Greycard metering. Never an issue shooting. Great images. Lens Nik -16mm-55mm DX

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Apr 12, 2021 19:24:13   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
lhunt wrote:
I have finally been using my Nikon D300S regularly after buying it several years ago. My problem is with metering, particularly for landscapes during the day. I am traveling and take photos out the passenger window of the car or while on the move hiking or whatever. I rarely have minutes to set up a shot. I shoot in manual and mostly use the single focus window so I can choose what is in focus. Most of the time using the camera meter, my photos are 1-4 stops over exposed. I try to check the exposure using the photo playback on the camera, but it is difficult to see in the sunshine. If I have time take several exposures of the same shot.
Any suggestions?
Thank you
I have finally been using my Nikon D300S regularly... (show quote)


Try program.
Works amazingly well.

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Apr 13, 2021 00:48:06   #
gchapell
 
maxlieberman wrote:
Sounds like a lens problem. I once had a lens that had a sticky whatever it is that sets the apertiure, and all the pic were over exposed. I had it repaired, and it has been fine ever since.


I cautiously second the lens as the source of the problem. Especially if it is a non Nikon lens. I have a Tamron lens that appears to work fine with a D200 but get over exposure in many situations(depending on the brightness of the moment). Upon digging into specs, the version of the lens(newer) is incompatible with the generation of the camera(older). Good luck nailing down the problem.

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Apr 13, 2021 10:38:02   #
lhunt
 
Thank you all, I am learning something from each comment and really appreciate it.
My lens is the AF-S NIKKOR 18-200mm 1:3.5-5.6GII ED. It came with the camera. I would like to get another lens, possibly up to a 300mm, but like the simplicity of just one lens right now. (I did have a second lens, but it ended up in the laundry on one of our first stops last year)
About my background - I am an engineer, not an artist, but have had a passion for photography since I was 8, picking it up when time allowed, very inconsistently. My husband and I decided to take a "gap year" last February. We are in our late 50's, quit great jobs, rented our house, bought a small pop-up and then covid hit. I had planned to replace this camera with something lighter but all the shops were closed. Despite my frustrations, I am glad I didn't replace it. I use my phone while trail running, long hikes or cycling. The photos are mainly for documenting our trip. My husband does the writing and I add the pictures at www.travelswithtoohey.com. We have been in some beautiful places and I'd like to be able to capture that.
Our next stop is the Grand Canyon, I know all your advice will be helpful. Hopefully I will have some success and I'll let you know when we get back online.

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Apr 13, 2021 19:33:01   #
Grahame Loc: Fiji
 
lhunt wrote:
Thank you all, I am learning something from each comment and really appreciate it.
My lens is the AF-S NIKKOR 18-200mm 1:3.5-5.6GII ED. It came with the camera. I would like to get another lens, possibly up to a 300mm, but like the simplicity of just one lens right now. (I did have a second lens, but it ended up in the laundry on one of our first stops last year)
About my background - I am an engineer, not an artist, but have had a passion for photography since I was 8, picking it up when time allowed, very inconsistently. My husband and I decided to take a "gap year" last February. We are in our late 50's, quit great jobs, rented our house, bought a small pop-up and then covid hit. I had planned to replace this camera with something lighter but all the shops were closed. Despite my frustrations, I am glad I didn't replace it. I use my phone while trail running, long hikes or cycling. The photos are mainly for documenting our trip. My husband does the writing and I add the pictures at www.travelswithtoohey.com. We have been in some beautiful places and I'd like to be able to capture that.
Our next stop is the Grand Canyon, I know all your advice will be helpful. Hopefully I will have some success and I'll let you know when we get back online.
Thank you all, I am learning something from each c... (show quote)


Have you solved the reason yet that your photos were often overexposed by 1-4 stops?

Which 'Metering' mode have you been using, Spot, Centre Weighted or Matrix?

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