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Manual Lens Focus
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Feb 2, 2021 09:32:02   #
Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV
 
Appy wrote:
I just learned things from each response! Thanks very much.
TriX, you are right. Aperture is lens fixed, determined by where I set zoom. Ranges from 8-16. I can set shutter speed and ISO. AND I have my monitor adjusted to be pretty bright with somewhat enlarged font size! The focus ring is very touchy/sensitive. Extremely slight adjustment makes a big difference to image, even though I can't see it in my viewfinder. I don't know a lot about post processing (also a beginner in photoshop), but I can add light. I don't recall if I did any of that or not to the images posted. I think maybe NOT.
SteveLew, I'm not sure what "focus peeking" is. I'll look it up. That could prove helpful.
CHG Canon, that's a lot (for a newbie) to chew on! LOL. The lens determines aperture, but I can control shutter speed and ISO. I'm toying with setting variations to see what happens. I think you may have hit on something I have never done, which is LIVE VIEW. I have always been using the viewfinder and lots of times shooting at ranges where I can barely tell the bird even has a beak, let alone see it's eye. So I choose a nearby limb etc to use as a focus point. I will switch to LIVE VIEW and see if that helps. I'm assuming that will allow use of the + function as when viewing stored pics?
I have been shopping for a Sigma with up to 500-600mm to use with my D3200. I can see they have electrical contacts but what I've seen seller said it won't work with AF on my cam.

Thanks very much for the tips. They definitely give me some good info on things to work out, including an eye doc visit. Got no illusions about being a pro. Just want to be the best I can be within my budget.
I'm 71 and in denial! LOL
I just learned things from each response! Thanks v... (show quote)


Despite what Paul from Chicago says you don't need to go mirrorless to fix your problem but you may need to spend some money.
I'm thinking that part of your problem is not getting enough pixels on the target. When I went full frame with a D850 I learned from experimenting that 46 Megapixels allows me to crop (that hated word) into a very small portion of the original image and come up with some very nice results. As you said, I can get an image from far enough away that I can barely see eyes, and still get the shot. I typically use a Nikon 200~500 5.6 zoom and use auto focus but I do use manual focus with 2 second delay and all the care to keep movement at a minimum including mirror lock up and I'm happy as a pig in mud!

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Feb 2, 2021 09:58:17   #
CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City
 
Retired CPO wrote:
Despite what Paul from Chicago says you don't need to go mirrorless to fix your problem but you may need to spend some money.
I'm thinking that part of your problem is not getting enough pixels on the target. When I went full frame with a D850 I learned from experimenting that 46 Megapixels allows me to crop (that hated word) into a very small portion of the original image and come up with some very nice results. As you said, I can get an image from far enough away that I can barely see eyes, and still get the shot. I typically use a Nikon 200~500 5.6 zoom and use auto focus but I do use manual focus with 2 second delay and all the care to keep movement at a minimum including mirror lock up and I'm happy as a pig in mud!
Despite what Paul from Chicago says you don't need... (show quote)


HAHAHAHA - The longer you read UHH, the more expensive it gets.

Don't use the LiveView option of your camera.

Don't seek a used 150-600 AF capable lens for current camera in the $700-$800 range.

Don't seek a used mirrorless body in the $500 range.

No, look at all new equipment jumping from entry level D3200 and cheap lens to

D850 - $2,996
Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR - $1,396

We see yet again that many of the UHH community believe inferior equipment is for the inferior photographer.

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Feb 2, 2021 09:59:04   #
olddad60
 
Any lens that you use on your D3200 must have the focus motor in the lens to auto focus. Also, have you tried using Live VI on your intended subject?ew to focus

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Feb 2, 2021 10:07:47   #
lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA
 
Appy wrote:
I'm just a beginner scratching the surface of learning manual settings etc. I have a lens that will not use auto settings. I'm getting some nice shots with it, but when I REALLY zoom up the image I can see it is not tack sharp in focus. Maybe it's my eyes just can't see well enough to make that distinction while shooting. Or maybe there is a way to see a zoomed version before I take the shot. I'm shooting at a range I can barely see the eye when I take the shot.
Any advice on how I can improve my ability to get better focus using a manual lens at range?
I'm just a beginner scratching the surface of lear... (show quote)


Very dark, too dark to judge much of anything else. Yes, that does make sense if that is a totally fixed aperture zoom lens. Personally I would have no use for such a thing. It also appears it does not AE with your D3200 body either. What are your images like with the proper lens for the camera? Try one somehow.

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Feb 2, 2021 10:12:52   #
gessman Loc: Colorado
 
jerryc41 wrote:
I may be wrong here, but I always focus at the focal length I'll be shooting. Zooming way in, focusing, and then zooming back to take the picture doesn't work for me. The techniques I use is to turn the lens one way till it's blurry, turn it the opposite direction till it's blurry, and then then pick a spot between the two blurry areas.

Don't go crazy trying to get "tack sharp" photos. If the picture looks good from a realistic viewing distance, then you've been successful. Besides, tacks aren't very sharp.
I may be wrong here, but I always focus at the foc... (show quote)


Tacks aren't easy to focus on either, are they?

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Feb 2, 2021 11:11:41   #
gessman Loc: Colorado
 
uhaas2009 wrote:
If you have the nikon 3xxx in your few finder button left is a green focus indicator use it. The 3xxx vs 810 is way stronger in manual-green dot-focus. For myself the manuell lens didn’t work because my eye signs aren’t 100%


I am not simply trying to be a troll here but after what happened in the first thread today, it makes it very difficult for me to want to say anything and the last thing I want to do is be unkind so I'll just ask a question - should something be said about this post and if so what, and is there any way to say anything without the risk of embarrassment? Should this post just be ignored? We're not talking simple typos and omissions here. We're talking gibberish that creates confusion. I can imagine that this thread could really confuse a newbie who might spend the rest of his/her life looking for the "few finder button left," and "didn't work because my eye signs aren't 100%."

What is "few finder button left?" Is it in the manual or should I just Google it? What is an "eye sign," how many does one person have and where and how do we find them? Those two simple things on top of the irrelevant comparison to another camera not involved in this discussion leads to almost total confusion to a new person who might think they are legitimate photography terms. I might be able to think I know what is being said here but do I really?

Are we looking at the words of a person having a stroke or is this person inebriated and should they be advised to not give advice that only creates more confusion while under the influence? I personally think there is a reasonable limit as to what is acceptable to those here who are trying to help people and I think this post exceeds that reasonable limit.

Should this kind of thing just go unchallenged? A person trying to learn probably isn't going to just ignore this but will want to know what exactly is being said and embark on a mission to have it deciphered for them. As a learner, you have to know the right answer in advance in order to be able to know when something is gibberish and should just be ignored and I think everyone who presumes to help learners should be held to a higher standard than this. Am I in this alone or does anyone have another answer?

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Feb 2, 2021 11:20:55   #
Picture Taker Loc: Michigan Thumb
 
If you want to continue with what you are using keep your f: stop up to f8 or above to give a larger range of in focus area.

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Feb 2, 2021 11:23:25   #
BurghByrd Loc: Pittsburgh
 
Appy wrote:
---
Any advice on how I can improve my ability to get better focus using a manual lens at range?


I didn't read all of the replies, just the first page, so this may have been mentioned elsewhere. I did not see anybody mention a tripod or monopod. Stabilizing your gear for the shot goes a long way toward improving sharpness and opens up options for exposure (shutter speed, aperture and ISO).

An auto focus lens would be easier but you can use the camera body auto focus capability to indicate when you are in focus. I'm not familiar with your specific model camera but most will indicate when the subject is in focus (single focus mode assumed here) by lighting up or showing < or > to assist with focusing. Not quite as easy as auto focus but still do-able.

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Feb 2, 2021 11:30:07   #
gessman Loc: Colorado
 
uws wrote:
The easiest way to shoot a manual lens is to set the camera for aperture priority. The camera will then set an appropriate shutter speed. You should probably use a manual ISO setting to force a higher shutter speed if necessary. Finally you may be too close for your lens to focus. That's why there are macro lenses.

Looking at your shots they are both under exposed and blurry. If it were me I would open the aperture a few stops and perhaps increase the ISO. This will force the shutter speed up.
The easiest way to shoot a manual lens is to set t... (show quote)


As stated, his lens has a fixed aperture that cannot be "opened up." Would that alter your answer to the problem?

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Feb 2, 2021 11:31:26   #
gessman Loc: Colorado
 
BurghByrd wrote:
I didn't read all of the replies,


Perhaps you should.

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Feb 2, 2021 11:35:08   #
gessman Loc: Colorado
 
Picture Taker wrote:
If you want to continue with what you are using keep your f: stop up to f8 or above to give a larger range of in focus area.


He is using a fixed aperture lens f/8 at one focal distance and f/16 when zoomed. No other choices.

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Feb 2, 2021 12:19:52   #
cahale Loc: San Angelo, TX
 
Appy wrote:
I'm just a beginner scratching the surface of learning manual settings etc. I have a lens that will not use auto settings. I'm getting some nice shots with it, but when I REALLY zoom up the image I can see it is not tack sharp in focus. Maybe it's my eyes just can't see well enough to make that distinction while shooting. Or maybe there is a way to see a zoomed version before I take the shot. I'm shooting at a range I can barely see the eye when I take the shot.
Any advice on how I can improve my ability to get better focus using a manual lens at range?
I'm just a beginner scratching the surface of lear... (show quote)


The aperture, when listed with details of the file show f/0, which is not possible. In file info, the aperture is shown as f/>1024, and I have no idea what that means. Also, the histogram is crowded toward the middle in all 3 basic colors. Focal length is shown as 0. For those who asked, it is a NIKON D3200, and I cannot determine the lens. It might be that the lens is not truly compatible to the camera, or possibly damaged or has dirty contacts. I'm including a copy of image 1 after clean-up. It's still fuzzy, however.


(Download)

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Feb 2, 2021 12:23:26   #
A. T.
 
Appy wrote:
I'm just a beginner scratching the surface of learning manual settings etc. I have a lens that will not use auto settings. I'm getting some nice shots with it, but when I REALLY zoom up the image I can see it is not tack sharp in focus. Maybe it's my eyes just can't see well enough to make that distinction while shooting. Or maybe there is a way to see a zoomed version before I take the shot. I'm shooting at a range I can barely see the eye when I take the shot.
Any advice on how I can improve my ability to get better focus using a manual lens at range?
I'm just a beginner scratching the surface of lear... (show quote)


I beg to differ with the advise of not using manual focus lenses on DSLRs. I use manual (non-CPU) lenses all of the time on my D4s and D850 with fabulous results. Now it is correct that you are wasting your time trying to manual focus wildlife but using your manual focus lens on static subjects is fine in fact, I find it fun and more interactive with my camera. It takes some practice to get the feel of rotating the focus ring and finding that sweet spot but with time and practice, you'll be just fine.

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Feb 2, 2021 13:05:39   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
jerryc41 wrote:
I may be wrong here, but I always focus at the focal length I'll be shooting. Zooming way in, focusing, and then zooming back to take the picture doesn't work for me. The techniques I use is to turn the lens one way till it's blurry, turn it the opposite direction till it's blurry, and then then pick a spot between the two blurry areas.

Don't go crazy trying to get "tack sharp" photos. If the picture looks good from a realistic viewing distance, then you've been successful. Besides, tacks aren't very sharp.
I may be wrong here, but I always focus at the foc... (show quote)


It's a tack. And it's sharp. . . .

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Feb 2, 2021 15:24:33   #
IDguy Loc: Idaho
 
Appy wrote:
I just learned things from each response! Thanks very much.
TriX, you are right. Aperture is lens fixed, determined by where I set zoom. Ranges from 8-16. I can set shutter speed and ISO. AND I have my monitor adjusted to be pretty bright with somewhat enlarged font size! The focus ring is very touchy/sensitive. Extremely slight adjustment makes a big difference to image, even though I can't see it in my viewfinder. I don't know a lot about post processing (also a beginner in photoshop), but I can add light. I don't recall if I did any of that or not to the images posted. I think maybe NOT.
SteveLew, I'm not sure what "focus peeking" is. I'll look it up. That could prove helpful.
CHG Canon, that's a lot (for a newbie) to chew on! LOL. The lens determines aperture, but I can control shutter speed and ISO. I'm toying with setting variations to see what happens. I think you may have hit on something I have never done, which is LIVE VIEW. I have always been using the viewfinder and lots of times shooting at ranges where I can barely tell the bird even has a beak, let alone see it's eye. So I choose a nearby limb etc to use as a focus point. I will switch to LIVE VIEW and see if that helps. I'm assuming that will allow use of the + function as when viewing stored pics?
I have been shopping for a Sigma with up to 500-600mm to use with my D3200. I can see they have electrical contacts but what I've seen seller said it won't work with AF on my cam.

Thanks very much for the tips. They definitely give me some good info on things to work out, including an eye doc visit. Got no illusions about being a pro. Just want to be the best I can be within my budget.
I'm 71 and in denial! LOL
I just learned things from each response! Thanks v... (show quote)


Aperture isn’t fixed. That is only the minimum aperture. But min aperture is usually fine for small birds and what you should use when focusing.

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