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depth of field
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Jan 23, 2021 23:10:03   #
erickter Loc: Dallas,TX
 
How about writing a commentary with correct punctuation. Nothing but but run on sentences.

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Jan 24, 2021 05:02:25   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
erickter wrote:
How about writing a commentary with correct punctuation. Nothing but but run on sentences.


You haven't said to whom you are referring.

I hope that you are not trying to correct someone's English as we are not sitting an English Examination.

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Jan 24, 2021 05:13:56   #
Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset
 
frankraney wrote:
A long lens is good, but, any movement is amplified, that's why you are unhappy. If you can not hand hold that long lens, you will need a GOOD STURDY tripod.

You do not need a math degree. The formula is there if you are interested, if not forget it. The depth of field calculators ask you for distance to subject, lens on milli meters, and aperture. It does all the math for you, then shows you what will be in acceptable focus, in front of and behind the subject. When you use the calculator and watch how things change, you will start to understand more about how the settings affect everything. I would also read about the triangle and understand aperture, iso, and shutter speed affect light and your exposure.
A long lens is good, but, any movement is amplifie... (show quote)


Thank you for taking the time to help. A member here has provided this link which I have saved entitled "Depth of Field the Definitive Photographic Guide". It has a lot of information and together with the DOF Table and a Youtube Video hopefully, I will be much the wiser.

Yes, I am interested, if not I wouldn't have bothered to have commented. Some of us can read book, watch videos but there is no comparison to having a human involvement that can steer you in the right direction.

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Jan 24, 2021 08:07:58   #
Leitz Loc: Solms
 
SuperflyTNT wrote:
I think the comment was in reference to Leitz stating that you should divide subject size by image size to get depth of field.

That's not what I wrote.

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Jan 24, 2021 10:43:50   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
Leitz wrote:
That's not what I wrote.


Splitting hairs. You’re using it to determine magnification and then using magnification and aperture to get DOF. The point is using focal length, aperture and distance to subject is more practical for most people.

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Jan 24, 2021 12:47:35   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
SuperflyTNT wrote:
Splitting hairs. You’re using it to determine magnification and then using magnification and aperture to get DOF. The point is using focal length, aperture and distance to subject is more practical for most people.


that's what I've been doing too. The apps just the COC in the background. The main thing is to get the shot and not have to worry about all the calculations, especially beginners and amateurs like me.

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Jan 24, 2021 14:28:04   #
RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA
 
RWR wrote:
Try this:
Took a couple extra tots of Johnny Walker Blue to get it right!

I posted this chart in an effort to address the OP’s concern - determining depth of field of a fairly small subject that pretty much fills most of the frame. I don’t pretend that it’s the best method for everything, but I prefer it to using a depth of field application while hoping the bird sits still for the shot. Actually, there are only three of four general groups of the birds I most often shoot, and I’ve long since memorized the settings and seldom use the chart these days. My most commonly used aperture is f/11, but I have quality lenses and will stop down further if needed.

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Jan 24, 2021 14:43:38   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
RWR wrote:
I posted this chart in an effort to address the OP’s concern - determining depth of field of a fairly small subject that pretty much fills most of the frame. I don’t pretend that it’s the best method for everything, but I prefer it to using a depth of field application while hoping the bird sits still for the shot. Actually, there are only three of four general groups of the birds I most often shoot, and I’ve long since memorized the settings and seldom use the chart these days. My most commonly used aperture is f/11, but I have quality lenses and will stop down further if needed.
I posted this chart in an effort to address the OP... (show quote)


And that’s what it really comes down to. With experience it’s pretty easy to be recognize what aperture to use depending on what you want by just looking at the scene.

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Jan 24, 2021 15:18:15   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
SuperflyTNT wrote:
And that’s what it really comes down to. With experience it’s pretty easy to be recognize what aperture to use depending on what you want by just looking at the scene.


Exactly. The goal isn’t to use the calculator or chart or formula to shoot. The goal is to use it to get familiar with the way your lens behaves in terms of DOF vs aperture so you don’t need to refer to it (unless perhaps you’re trying to understand a problem with a shot or planning a macro shooting session)

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Jan 26, 2021 08:55:58   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
JOHNERIKSSON wrote:
I am showing a northern cardinal picture I took with my Canon 600 f4 and 1DX mark III
the bill and eye are tack sharp, but the breast feathers, feet and finally the tail are badly out of focus. So my question is what kind of camera settings do I need to make all the bird sharp these were iso 800, f5.6 and 1/3200. How would you set up the camera to get better results. Or would you take several pictures with different focus points and combine them?


For small birds close up, use a 400mm lens on a crop frame body and stop down to f8 - at least !. Forget full frame. As mentioned, your focus accuracy must be calibrated/precise ! If possible, move your camera position to have the sensor align more with the centerline of the bird's body - or, wait for the bird to move into such a position.
.

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Jan 26, 2021 09:01:11   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
imagemeister wrote:
For small birds close up, use a 400mm lens on a crop frame body and stop down to f8 - at least !. Forget full frame.
.


His 600mm on a full frame is pretty close to a 400mm on a crop body. But yes, stopping down to f/8 would help.

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