SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

Which from a practical point of view is pretty useless. Most people don’t go out shooting thinking about the subject size and magnification but they usually are aware of the focal length and distance to subject.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

Steven Loc: So. Milwaukee, WI.

I go to "scan tips"; their scale will also give "included" measurements from the focus point.

Leitz Loc: Solms

I'm thinking that even rank beginners ought to have at least a rough idea of the size of the bird they're shooting.

Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset

No, rank beginners like me only think of the distance from the bird and haven't got a clue. That is why we ask. I am still confused as it seems that I need a Math Certificate of the highest degree. Isn't there a simpler way?

Beginners think (speaking for myself) that having a 600 zoom lens is all that is needed and then we are disappointed with the photo.

At least I am being honest!

DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX

Try setting your shutter speed to /1/1600 or 1/800. Set your aperture to f/8 or f/11.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

I understand, but photography is a hobby combining technology with art, and depth of field is one of those basic concepts like exposure that you’re going to need to get a handle on to get good results. No math required except filling in the blanks, and after you do it for While you may not even need the calculator - you’ll get a feel for it. Just go to “DOF master” (https://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html), plug in the camera type, distance, lens focal length and aperture, and it will give you the near and far distances and the depth of field. Looks like this:

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

I think the comment was in reference to Leitz stating that you should divide subject size by image size to get depth of field.

wdking

Sorry, but what do the letters in the equation stand for?

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

c=circle of confusion
N=f number (aperture)
U=Distance to subject
F=focal length

Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset

Thanks. I will send you a PM. I don't want to show my ignorance further.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Thank you for posting that chart - I download it on my computer so I have a good easy reference.

Here the issue though. I sat through 2 semesters of OPTICS LASS. I still don't know why. Likely, because at the time I was studying to be a PHOTOGRAPHER and having a degree in science would be helpful. Halfway through a 4-year program, I decided I did not want to become a photographic/chemical/optical eingeneer and going on to work for Kodak like most of my classmates. I had been working in a studio since I was a teenager and I learned more procatical working knowledge from my boss and the senior photographers than at school. Fortunately, I was able to transfer to an applied program and get my "wallpaper"! Sorry about the biographical segment!

My point is that all that circles of confusion stuff is interesting, the calculators are handy but out in the field- NADA! So, you are out there shooting a riot, l a fast-paced social event, a wildlife scenario, a war, or even a landscape where the light is changing every 4-seconds or a beautiful animal appears in the foreground- what do you do to figure out what is gonna be in focus. So here what you got to keep in your head:

Not everything is gonna be in super-ultra- crazy sharp focus no matter what you do- the buzz word is ACCEPTABLE SHARPNESS! I know this may soud too rudimentary but smaller apertures yield more depth of field. Wide-angle lenses, under certain conditions, will facilitate more depth of field. Telephoto lenses generally yield less DOP. If you are using a long lens, FOCUS CAREFULLY, especially at wide apertures and use the appropriate shutter speed and use a tripod or monopod if possible- blur can be caused, due to camera movement, as well as faulty focusing and camera support makes it easier to maintain a critical focus point.

DEPTH OF FIELD SCALES: I miss the DOP scale on most of my modern lenses. Using the HYPERFOAL distant and SEEING the DOP limits right on the cameras' was handy. Of course, you can do calculations but it is not practical in the field. So, in many cases, you have to practice, do dry runs and get to know your lenses and how they work under practical conditions.

Old guy tricks: for many years, more than I wish to calculate, I shot weddings and did press work with film cameras. Although TECHNICALLY, this is not exact if you do the math, but with a normal or wide-angle lens, in a rush, we would focus 1/3 into the scene- a group of multiple rows of people. a wedding receiving line shot at a 45-degree angle, the bride tossing her bouquet, a riot at protests, a basketball game shot from the court sidelines, etc.- this method works at apertures of f/8 and smaller. If the camer/lens had a DOP scale we would not even take time to focus on the viewing screen or the rangefinder and never had an issue even in prints up to 20x24. We could shoot from the hip, hold the camera over our heads- whatever. There we no autofocus and on early AF models, there was no danger of drift. Remember the 1/3 thighs in not exact but it works in a hitch. This does not work in macro work, most long lenses, and wide apertures.

COMPROMISES: Photogrqahyic technology, in a practical sense, requires the ability the think fast and compromise. You can't always have your cake and eat it too, especially if you are looking for spontaneous, action-packed, dramatic images. If you worry about diffraction and noise too much, you will miss out on many great pictures. To get the ample DOP that you may need in certain given situations, you may need to increase your ISO setting and work smaller apertures. If you ain't producing photo-murals, nobody will notice the diffractions and noise, especially if the content is aesthetically pleasing or dramatic- maybe both!

Of course, you can use a tilt/shift lens or engage in focus stacking and produce or fake DOP, but that ain't for fast capture situations. If you have the time and situation to employ these methods or are working under very controlled studio or studio-like conditions, by all means, go for mathematical and scientific perfection. Get to know your gear and what it is capable of and where it will not work well. Your camera has many onboard features that will help in the field and in certain conditions can be activated and employed. A depth of field previewed is hand. If you have time, you can zoom in on the LCD screen image a monitor your results and make necessary corrections or adjustments before wrapping up the shoot. Practice LOCKIN IN your focus point in critical situations and familiarize yourself with all your cameras' AF options.


With autofocus, many shooters forget how to manual focus or never learn the methods. In some situations, it may help to manually focus. The method is to focus on the point you are concentrating on and THEN go past that point and go back and forth quickly until the image is sharp. It's called rocking in the focus- another old guy trick that works. It tasks practice because on many modern lenses the TRAVEL is very short.

Make sure your eyepiece diopter is set for your eyesight or eyeglasses/contacts, etc. Make sure it is clean! It's amazing to want kinda rough stuff to come out of your eyes or off your face!

Lately, I am shooting on many construction sites. I am masked up, have a visor, I have used so much hand sanitizer that my skin is coming off. I may not die of Covid-19 but terminal dermatitis may do me in. Last week I shot in a legal medical marijuana factory- had to wear a Hazmat suit-they let me keep it! If I don't get my vaccine soon, I'll wear it to work!

Stay safe, y'all!

Steven Loc: So. Milwaukee, WI.

The only dumb question is the one not asked. Need info, ask. We're all here to learn something from someone

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

Somewhat. What they need to know if how much do I want in focus. So, if they are shooting a bird, what is the distance to the bird and what is the approximate size(how jong from front to back). And then they can damn use A DOF calculator, enter the approximate distance to subject, then zoom in or if using a fixed focal length, enter the focal length and look to see how deep the accepted focus is, and Chang the aperture untill they get the correct amount of DOF.

They do not need to carry around a calculator and do it manually. The coc is already in these DOF calculators.

Giving people the formula is ok for those that are interested and understand it enough to do it. But, for beginners, just telling them "this is how it is calculated if you are interested, otherwise use this calculator app for your phone." Was they use the aid, they will learn. At least this has been my experience with people that ask me.

So, yes, knowing the approximate size of the subject matters.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

A long lens is good, but, any movement is amplified, that's why you are unhappy. If you can not hand hold that long lens, you will need a GOOD STURDY tripod.

You do not need a math degree. The formula is there if you are interested, if not forget it. The depth of field calculators ask you for distance to subject, lens on milli meters, and aperture. It does all the math for you, then shows you what will be in acceptable focus, in front of and behind the subject. When you use the calculator and watch how things change, you will start to understand more about how the settings affect everything. I would also read about the triangle and understand aperture, iso, and shutter speed affect light and your exposure.