kenArchi Loc: Seal Beach, CA

There is not a wood working machine that can be as accurate as metal working machines used for the airo space industry.
My dad was a inspector and model builder in that industry.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

No silent gestures for me. Only vocal will do.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Delta is still in business, but not the Delta it once was. But neither is the woodworking machinery business. It’s www.delta machinery.com. If I ever decide to spend the money I will buy some Martin woodworking machinery. Their US headquarters is about 20 minutes from me and I stop by and visit occasionally...

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I see that's the only way to get an accurate measurement, rather than relying on the liners on the saw table.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

I might contend that CNC is CNC but wood is not metal when it comes to holding dimensions...

edrobinsonjr Loc: Boise, Idaho

Julian,

What you are trying to do is set the blade angle relative to the table. So, you set the box on the table and press the zero button. At that point the box reads zero regardless of the table angle relative to the ground because you told it to use the table top as zero. Now you raise the blade and stick the tilt box onto the blade and it reads the angle of the blade relative to the table and you can set the angle with great accuracy.

The thing is you set the box's zero setting relative to the table top and the blade is attached to the saw relative to the table so when you put the box on the blade it reads relative to the table.

I also use it to set the fence on my jointer. Zero on the jointer table, stick it onto the fence and adjust for 90 degrees. It's a very useful tool to have in the shop.

Another useful tool is the digital angle gauge. Mine reads to 0.1 degrees. I do a lot segmented bowls and vessels on my wood lathe. The little pieces that make up the rings of the turning must be cut at precise angles ir the rings have gaps. THe angle gauge makes saw setup a snap.

Tilt Box

BurneyHuff

I have the same problem with a Delta table saw. My solution is to use a good tri-square to measure the angle of the blade from the table whenever I'm making a cut where accuracy is important. Only when making rough cuts do I use the scale on the saw. I always check the angle of the miter gauge to the blade when needing an accurate cut, also. If I need more accuracy than I get from the table saw cut, I go to the shooting board and make everything "right".

kerry12 Loc: Harrisburg, Pa.

I have one also. It is a very nice little device and easy to. It is very accurate.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

It is, and I NEVER rely on the gauge on the saw.

edrobinsonjr Loc: Boise, Idaho

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Unfortunately, what they still sell is limited, and as I understand it, their products are now made in China (not positive). My Unisaw and other Delta tools are probably 20 years old and all made in the USA. I tried to find a riser block (for resawing) for my classic Delta bandsaw, but they no longer list one - should have bought it when I bought the saw.

fsommer

Correct. Factory scales are neither precise or accurate. Your index can only be set accurately to one angle.
Today's computer and printers are amazing. You can easily fabricate an accurate scale. The farther you can place the scale and index away from the pivot point the more accurately you can read it.
Alternatively, you can use a supplemental product like a digital angle finder or some precise gage blocks. Gage blocks are machinist accurate-far more than required for woodworking.

My table saw is stationary. So, I invested the time to carefully set the blade at the most accurate angle possible at each position. I then mounted a laser pointer to the casting. I set a permanent target on the wall 10 feet away. Speedy angle setting is both quick, very accurate and repeatable. If your saw is portable it won't work for you.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Most mid to low end machinery is made off shore today. I thought they made the redesigned Unisaw in Tennessee but don’t know for sure. I would probably recommend a SawStop or Powermatic 66 if someone asked me about a cabinet saw these days. Festool / Festo owns SawStop now. There are still decent used Unisaws on eBay too. My current one is about 20 years old.

My Delta 14” bandsaw dates from the mid 80s. I have the riser and fence for it. Virtually never use the fence and it is not a great re-sawing machine with the 1 Hp motor. I put Carter guides on it but they are still a pain to adjust. The Powermatic bandsaw is nice but about $3k. I don’t use it enough to justify that much. Maybe one day I will put a 2 hp motor in it...

Even back in the 80s certain Delta machines were made in Brazil by Invicta. It’s sad what machinery has degraded into unless you get into real commercial grade stuff. I still have 2 Delta HD shapers and a Powermatic 28. Delta 8” jointer and 13” and 20” planers. Always preferred Delta over Powermatic, sort of a Chevy vs Ford thing I reckon...

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

https://www.ebay.com/i/264952561498?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264952561498&targetid=1068215100140&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9009916&poi=&campaignid=11615401409&mkgroupid=116126554791&rlsatarget=pla-1068215100140&abcId=9300455&merchantid=115046963&gclid=CjwKCAiA57D_BRAZEiwAZcfCxTDidslqNNOJUuXzeMDMOEcTR2JIhcCgc5FsfnKrwXPH2D3iYUQQHhoC1CsQAvD_BwE

Here is the whole riser setup on eBay. I think they cost $150 30 years ago...

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Thank you! My Delta Bandsaw is 1-1/2 HP, but not really a great resaw machine. If I did a lot, I would probably get something bigger.