metering digital compared to film and slide film (Page 3): When metering for a digital exposure, I meter the brightest part of the scene. Then, I add a bit to the exposure. The added...

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

When metering for a digital exposure, I meter the brightest part of the scene. Then, I add a bit to the exposure. The added amount is determined by where I want to place that bright area. The bigger factor in the additional exposure is the characteristics of the camera and its ability to handle that additional exposure. That is determined by structured laboratory testing.
--Bob

sploppert wrote:

when metering film I was taught in school to expose for the shadows and print for the high lights and with slide film it was best to under expose up to a stop. How does this apply to digital?

ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area

CHG_CANON wrote:

Use your camera meter and especially use the i di... (show quote)

So just average the exposure and trust the dynamic range of your sensor ? 😁

sploppert Loc: Rochester, NY

Ysarex wrote:

Here's a quote. In case you missed it I'll post it... (show quote)

I wasn't referring to table top photography I was referring to portrait photography. Not table top where you set it up and just bracket until you get what you like and the subject never complains about how long it takes or how how hot the lights are. You however are correct for that kind of shooting you need to be accurate with your exposure but that is not what I was talking about and I doubt you were using 35mm cameras and film for that kind of work.

Ysarex Loc: St. Louis

sploppert wrote:

I wasn't referring to table top photography I was referring to portrait photography. Not table top where you set it up and just bracket until you get what you like and the subject never complains about how long it takes or how how hot the lights are. You however are correct for that kind of shooting you need to be accurate with your exposure but that is not what I was talking about

And you made that really clear.

sploppert wrote:

and I doubt you were using 35mm cameras and film for that kind of work.

No, that was shot 4x5 sheet and you didn't just bracket until you got what you like -- that got you fired too.

sploppert Loc: Rochester, NY

I thought so. you bought a batch of film bulk tested the hell out of it calibrated your meters had an art director tell you how to set the shot up and when it came time to purchase a new batch of film the testing started all over again because film batch to batch varies. I bought my film in bulk, worked with my lab to get the best results that I wanted for the way I shoot just like you my point is some times you have to underexpose highlights to mateine detail in the shadows depends on what's important. I never said to underexpose for every shot only when it's called for.

Ysarex Loc: St. Louis

sploppert wrote:

I thought so. you bought a batch of film bulk test... (show quote)

How does, "with slide film it was best to under expose up to a stop" help maintain detail in the shadows?

sploppert wrote:

I never said to underexpose for every shot only when it's called for.

That's not what you said. You made a generally applicable statement: "...with slide film it was best to under expose up to a stop."

I understand that screwing up and underexposing transparency film is better than screwing up and overexposing transparency film. I prefer not screwing up.

sploppert Loc: Rochester, NY

Ysarex wrote:

That's not what you said. You made a generally applicable statement: "...with slide film it was best to under expose up to a stop."

I understand that screwing up and underexposing transparency film is better than screwing up and overexposing transparency film. I prefer not screwing up.

the key word is upto. not every time use your brain it is more intelligent that a meter. learn how to use the meter to get the results you want. learn your medium and equipment and use your brain.

foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC

User ID wrote:

Yes a critical medium like chromes should be exposed carefully. But don’t disparage the informal guidance to “under expose” it slightly. The advice is correct for legions of users whose metering method is quite pedestrian and dare I say mindless. IOW that “slight under exposure” ... in the hands of the simplest meter users ... most often results in the correct exposure rather than under exposure.

I agree. I always shot slides and always underexposed with great success. and I do the same with digital. Unless it is already a dark situation.

Ysarex Loc: St. Louis

sploppert wrote:

the key word is upto. not every time use your brain it is more intelligent that a meter. learn how to use the meter to get the results you want. learn your medium and equipment and use your brain.

The key words are best and underexpose. Use your brain to do best and don't under or over anything.

foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC

sploppert wrote:

thank you I agree with you 100% I never use the ma... (show quote)

A little advice. When you answer a post click "quote reply". then we wll be able to tell to whom you are responding.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

sploppert wrote:

thank you for your answer but I must disagree with your comment about slide film. this is the way I was taught at Kodak and served me well for 40 years as a profession photographer.

User ID

Ysarex wrote:

No, that was shot 4x5 sheet and you didn't just bracket until you got what you like -- that got you fired too.

At one workplace we didn’t have an in-house color lab. All of our 8x10 E6 was bracketed. There’s too many very small variables, and if they don’t vary all in divergent directions they can add up to +/- 1EV. So in order to SAFELY move on to the next setup or location, you MUST bracket 3 sheets.

We had 8x10 Polaroid, but that is also a variable. It was used for reviewing the details of the shot. It was not a reliable gauge of exposure.

sploppert Loc: Rochester, NY

User ID wrote:

At one workplace we didn’t have an in-house color lab. All of our 8x10 E6 was bracketed. There’s too many very small variables and if they don’t run all in divergent directions they can add up to +/- 1EV. So in order to SAFELY move on to the next setup or location, you MUST bracket 3 sheets.

We had 8x10 Polaroid, but that is also a variable. It was used for reviewing the details of the shot. It was not a reliable gauge of exposure.

thank you

JD750 Loc: SoCal

sploppert wrote:

when metering film I was taught in school to expose for the shadows and print for the high lights and with slide film it was best to under expose up to a stop. How does this apply to digital?

Digital is “more like” slide film. And digital is extremely harsh if you blow out the highlights, because you cant’ recover them.

Ysarex Loc: St. Louis

User ID wrote:

At one workplace we didn’t have an in-house color lab. All of our 8x10 E6 was bracketed. There’s too many very small variables, and if they don’t vary all in divergent directions they can add up to +/- 1EV. So in order to SAFELY move on to the next setup or location, you MUST bracket 3 sheets.

We had 8x10 Polaroid, but that is also a variable. It was used for reviewing the details of the shot. It was not a reliable gauge of exposure.

I didn't say we didn't bracket. I said we didn't bracket until we got what we wanted. A standard 3 frame bracket for E-6 is common.