Nikon D500 and 200-500mm lens (Page 2): Another recommendation to use the center focus point. I set back button focusing (AF ON button for focusing). I focus with the center point, and...

photoman43

Another recommendation to use the center focus point. I set back button focusing (AF ON button for focusing). I focus with the center point, and recompose and then take the picture.

JeffDavidson Loc: Originally Detroit Now Los Angeles

I use that lens with a D% and a D850 and get mixed results but that is not the lens' or camera fault it is mine. Posting photos as suggested will help immensely, however, check your focal points. Are your using Group 9, 25, 51 or 151?

Fotoartist Loc: Detroit, Michigan

Ruby's GD wrote:

I have an issue with my D500 and a 200-500mm lens...situation that I c here a lot but getting frustrated....I have read all of Steve Perry's books cover to cover and shoot and shoot manual at various apertures and shutter speeds with auto iso....and AP from time to time...with and without tripod and still get soft images at various/all distances.....Im sure its me but any advice would be welcomed ....don't mind snippy and condescending remarks they might help

Is your shutter speed high enough and your VR on, even on a tripod? Also, bump up your ISO. Don't shoot at ISO 100-200.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Have you calibrated the that lens to the camera? I'd do that before anything else. If they're not in tune, all the aforementioned is not going to get you a sharp image.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Mike1017

Hi Ruby just try shooting at a much higher shutter like 1/2000 or higher you will have excellent results if you want sharp images try it. I shoot mine hand held using a D5 or my D850 works like a champ and some times a higher ISO try it you will like it..... Mike

Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA

Ruby's GD wrote:

I have an issue with my D500 and a 200-500mm lens...situation that I c here a lot but getting frustrated....I have read all of Steve Perry's books cover to cover and shoot and shoot manual at various apertures and shutter speeds with auto iso....and AP from time to time...with and without tripod and still get soft images at various/all distances.....Im sure its me but any advice would be welcomed ....don't mind snippy and condescending remarks they might help

One thing to consider is atmospheric problems. With long lenses it stands to reason that a lot of shots are going to be distance shots. In hot humid weather the atmosphere can play a real part in how a photo comes out. Also, you are most likely shooting outside with a long lens so wind is another factor. Just think -- if wind can mess with a golf ball, as small as they are, wind can move a camera and long lens.

sscnxy

Thomas makes an important point, which I absolutely agree with. With DSLR's, EVERY LENS should be checked for the presence of front or back focus issues, because more often than not they are not all perfectly tuned to the camera bodies' AF system. Usually they'll need at least some calibration. That's just due to the nature of manufacturing tolerance limitations.

All photographers who care about sharpness would make sure of this. Otherwise the catchlights and pupils, for instance, would never be in focus -- the ear or the nose would be, instead. In my experience, every new lens of mine was at least slightly out of tune when first mounted on the camera and needed to be tweaked at least a little.

You'll read otherwise from the same naysayers on UHH, and I just don't get it. I suspect they've never put in the effort to either check their own DSLR's AF for front or back focus or to do the tuning correctly.
Mirrorless cameras, of course, wouldn't need this.

NMY

jefflane

I disagree with the above. The Nikon rep I saw last year told me that he has owned 55 lenses and only one of them needed to be tuned. I attempted to tune all of my lense. Also, the tuning process involves pushing on the lcd which jiggles the camera. Not a great design IMHO when they could have just allowed the rremote shutter release to do the job.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

sscnxy wrote:

Thomas makes an important point, which I absolutel... (show quote)

Perhaps Nikon has this issue, from what you say. I really doubt it.
I have never had an issue with focus and yes I checked out of curiosity.
I am sure it does occur but of millions of lens/cameras sold it is not a common problem.
Except for you just being incredibly unlucky it appears.

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

jefflane wrote:

I disagree with the above. The Nikon rep I saw last year told me that he has owned 55 lenses and only one of them needed to be tuned. I attempted to tune all of my lense. Also, the tuning process involves pushing on the lcd which jiggles the camera. Not a great design IMHO when they could have just allowed the rremote shutter release to do the job.

What camera do you have that requires pushing on the lcd to tune the lens?

sscnxy

jefflane wrote:

I disagree with the above. The Nikon rep I saw last year told me that he has owned 55 lenses and only one of them needed to be tuned. I attempted to tune all of my lense. Also, the tuning process involves pushing on the lcd which jiggles the camera. Not a great design IMHO when they could have just allowed the rremote shutter release to do the job.

There is no need to push on the lcd screen ever, so I'm not sure what technique you're employing. You use the live view mode initially just to confirm that the focus point is exactly placed on your target of the focus chart.
Then you manually put the image out of focus, get out of the live view mode, and use the viewfinder to find the AF from there. You should keep the camera perfectly still on a tripod and trigger each shot by using a remote shutter release or timer release to minimize any camera shake. Those who are familiar with and do this procedure with each lens derive the benefit of maximally sharp performance from our lenses and usually don't need to complain that the lens we bought don't seem as sharp as they should be.

If you choose to believe otherwise, well, I wish you good luck and good shooting with your equipment. There are a lot of experts on UHH. Unfortunately, there are also many who propagate untruths.

NMY

sscnxy

Architect1776 wrote:

Perhaps Nikon has this issue, from what you say. I really doubt it.
I have never had an issue with focus and yes I checked out of curiosity.
I am sure it does occur but of millions of lens/cameras sold it is not a common problem.
Except for you just being incredibly unlucky it appears.

Hi.
I don't think it is a matter of being unlucky. As I wrote, more often than not, the lenses were "slightly out of tune." That means that when I put them to the test with a focus chart, and then the magnified images examined critically on the computer monitor, the point of focus was just slightly in front of or slightly behind the central point. Some lenses were more so than others. These included very fine lens lines from Nikon, Tamron, or Tokina. After they were tuned, AF was right on. So I don't think these were bad copies of lenses. I just happen to be exceedingly compulsive about maximal sharpness, so I always check.

NMY

NMY

TonyBrown

What shutter speed are you using. For bif you need to use 1/3200 plus to get a sharp image. I do sometimes shoot on lower shutter speeds to keep iso down if I’m on auto iso, but I find it’s very hit and miss on getting a sharp image below 1/2500 and the keeper rate at 1/1600 is very low for me.

bbradford Loc: Wake Forest NC

Have you ever had your lens married to your camera?