chjaddbs Loc: Montana

Thanks - interesting idea (so, obviously, I have not done this)! I guess the tradeoff would be 'knowing' that a fraction of the shots will be OOF, with a greater certainty that at least one will be spot on. I'd have to play with this to see if I can work it into action shots in the field... cool challenge!

chjaddbs Loc: Montana

Thanks for your great feedback -- and for making me feel less of an idiot . I already do most of what you suggest, but have a couple of questions. 1) why shoot in bursts (is this because the autofocus system does vary from shot to shot, so you get a little 'natural' focus-bracketing)? 2) When I use d-9 or d-25, I tend to get fewer keepers, at least when the subject is not a large fraction of the frame -- for what situations do you find it more useful than single-point (AF-C)? 3) When CAN you use manual focus and how do you implement that (use the back screen and magnify in live view?). Thanks!!

chjaddbs Loc: Montana

Thanks! Since the 'hind-focus' issue occurs (for me) pretty much exclusively when the background is more contrasty than the subject (most any large mammal against foliage, for instance), is this perhaps rather a 'feature' than a bug? I know that DSLR's typically use phase-detection focus systems, not contrast-detection ones, but are the phase-detection systems ALSO sensitive to contrast? In the sense that if the focus sensor encompasses both a matte and a complex contrasty part of the scene, it will AUTOMATICALLY choose the more contrasty part to focus on (apparently not even the edge between the two parts of the scene)? If true, does everyone else know this except me?

williejoha

I have found that shooting long lenses is a different game. The longer the lens the more mirror slap you will notice. I had fought this problem for a very long time. The cure in my case was shooting with cable release AND RAISING THE MIRROR to eliminate mirror slap. Worked for me when shooting with the 100-400 L plus an 2x converter. Hope this helps.
WJH

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

A few comments / suggestions, applicable to most cameras, but specific to my experiences with Canon EOS technology:

1. Using an extender / teleconverter will cause the system's autofocus to get sluggish, especially when the configuration reduces the maximum effective aperture to f/8.

2. Using Canon's AI Servo (Nikon AF-C / Continuous-servo AF) causes the camera and lens to continuous adjust the lens focus as long as the activation key is pressed. Keeping the lens in continuous focus seeks to overcome any potential sluggishness of the extender. It also addresses subtle movements of the subject and / or the photographer.

3. When possible and applicable, shoot in short bursts rather than one shot or just one long multi-second burst. Between each burst, release the focus button and restart, even if panning with a moving subject. Say a bird is flying toward you. You'd seek to acquire focus and pan with the bird. The moment before shooting, try releasing focus and reacquire and begin shooting. The idea of the wolf mentioned earlier is similar. Set an AF point on the eyes, shoot 2- to 5-images. Release the shutter and the auto focus. Restart the AF and shooting again. At home, pick through the best and delete the rest.

4. For advanced EOS models, review the AI Servo case settings, if available for your model. For other models, test adjustments for Tracking Sensitivity by setting the bias toward Responsive +1 or +2. Also, consider setting the bias of Acceleration tracking toward +1 or +2. Similar changes can made to tune any of the EOS Case settings, if available.

5. Consider the Back Button Focus (BBF) configuration. Most who like it, swear by it. This change reassigns the AF activation to a button elsewhere on the camera, typically the back of the camera that you reach with your thumb. Then, your index finger on the shutter only releases the shutter. Idea #3, earlier, would then be accomplished by moving your thumb slightly while your index finger remains poised and ready to release the shutter.

6. Trust your lens IS / VR. All Canon Series II / III IS-enabled lenses assume the IS is active regardless of shutterspeed or use of a tripod. If your EF lens provides a mode 3 Image Stabilization, test whether this mode improves your results. The mode 1 may improve the image stability of the view finder, but possibly for additional sluggishness of the AF.

7. Do not focus and recompose. Rather, set a single AF point (or a zone / group) specifically on the subject, preferably on the nearest eye of a person / animal. Practice developing your 'finger feel' for your camera body so you can move the AF point within the frame without lowering the camera from your eye in a shooting position. Alternatively, view your potential composition and pre-position the AF point / group before raising the camera to a shooting position.

chjaddbs Loc: Montana

Thanks! I do the same when shooting slow speeds -- but that does not (for me) eliminate the 'hind-focus' problem, it just guarantees that the part of the image in focus (the background) is truly sharp!

chjaddbs Loc: Montana

Wow, great suggestions, thanks! Most are clear but I do have a Q re: (2) - I have noticed that when using AF-C, the lens continues to focus (in tiny, but, perceptible, movements) even when the subject is stock still and the lens is firmly supported by a good tripod. This does not happen when using AF-S (even if I hold down the BBF). I assume that this a feature of AF-C, not a bug, but in any case is it a good feature if the subject is not moving? I could imagine the answer is yes, even if it means that some of the mages in a burst are less than crisp-sharp... Thanks for your thoughts on this.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

The camera / lens continuing to focus in AF-C / AI Servo, yes, that is both the purpose and feature. Don't worry about whether the subject is stationary. If you want to stop focusing and using BBF, just lift your thumb. But, there's no negative impact to continuously focusing on a non-moving subject.

There's probably nothing new in this older post vs what was related above, How to obtain sharp images in digital photography. In this linked post, there are some example images that seek to demonstrate the ideas presented in both of these posts.

chjaddbs Loc: Montana

Great, thanks for the link to the older post... really interesting!

bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA

HAVE YOU CALIBRATED YOUR LENS TO YOUR CAMERA BODY?

This is very important for long telephoto zoom lenses because of the limited DOF. Almost all the cameras you listed have the AF Fine Tune function, although I do not know about your D3. If you do not know how to make this adjustment, these videos will show you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cHhrWF-pqM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYXXP9r0oAc

Photocraig

My point, as well. Often we "Think" we focused where we wanted, and then the Genius in teh camera re-focuses. I suggest reviewing Single point focus, Back Button Focus, and AI focus. Steve Perry, a Nikon Wizzard 'splains Canon AI-Servo better than any of the Canon talking heads--specifically Rudy.

The situation you're describing if among the most demanding photo challenges. Big Glass makes everything more difficult--with appropriate rewards when ya get it.

Keep working. Shoot moving objects like cars (stay stealthy here) they're fast and move in and out of changing light. This is like anything else, perfect practice makes perfect.

DaveyDitzer Loc: Western PA

See Back Country Gallery (Steve Perry)re: Nikon focus - great e book that has helped me. He's also a UHH member and responds here.

chjaddbs Loc: Montana

I have 'digested' your older post, which is indeed very helpful. One Q from that: how do you know if (and especially WHEN) IS/VR decreases image quality for any given lens -- is there any kind of database for this, or do I just do an online search and take what comes up (unfortunately not always consistent between posters)? I learned the hard way that the Nikon 500mm f4 does poorly at speeds less than 1/400th sec. so I prepare accordingly (sadly no way to turn off the VR using a menu...). My understanding from the explanations I found of the issue is that it depends on the specifics of the VR mechanism, which I guess may be shared among lenses of a given vintage of autofocus and will differ between vintages (and cameras makers, of course). In the case of my 500mm f4, the problem is repeatable across Nikon bodies of diverse age and price from entry to professional. Are there ANY (long telephoto) lenses in which VR does NOT lead to image degradation at very fast shutter speeds? Having such a lens (if any exist) would be a real upgrade for my photography. Thanks!

chjaddbs Loc: Montana

Many thanks for the suggestion. I do use the Fine Tune feature pretty regularly and check it once a season (just in case the temperature makes a difference - I cannot decide if there is a consistent pattern). I have the lens calibrated to each body that I use.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Q: Are there ANY (long telephoto) lenses in which VR does NOT lead to image degradation at very fast shutter speeds?

ANS: Yes, they're white, have red rings, and they're called Canon. You see them at every professional event.