bpulv wrote:
First of all, if the filter you are talking about is a UV or clear filter, you are wasting you money. Those filters do nothing to enhance your photographs. For better lens protection and also prevent contrast robbing lens flare, aways keep a lens hood on your lens when it is not caped. The only filter you should need for color digital photography is a CPL (Circular Polarizer).
Now as to the problem of loose filters, try white Teflon tape joint tape, the same tape plumbers use. It is available at any hardware store.
First of all, if the filter you are talking about ... (
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If you'd read the second paragraph youd see it specified circular polariser.
I personally find loads of other filters very useful for color digital hpotography, from extreme ND (up to 18 stops), various longpass/infra red filters (often shooting with a #25 red filter for color IR), to occasional diffration types.
Plummers tape is good, soft enough that it won't damage anything & tends to stay in place it stretched tight during application. I use it a lot for gas fittings :)
That doesn't sound right?
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TEFLON TAPE SHOULD DO THE JOB
Xume Magnetic Filter Holders (Here's a blurb from their site):
"The Xume [pronounced "Zoom"] Filter Holder is a precision-machined metal ring that attaches to any circular screw-in filter to provide instant and secure attachment to lenses when a Xume Lens Adapter is installed on the lens itself. NdFeB Rare Earth magnets are integrated within the lens adapter to attract the filter holder and provide a strong, but easy to remove, connection. By using magnets to attach the filters, changing them goes much more quickly and eliminates the chance of cross-threading or jamming. The ring is approximately the same thickness as most step-rings and should not cause vignetting on most lenses."
I use them myself, though I wasn't having trouble with filters falling off; in my case they sometimes didn't want to come off without a fight, and a couple of times got thoroughly cross-threaded.
a thinned out piece of scotch tape or electrical after filter is on at lens to filter .
If I remember correctly the threads are plastic on that lens. It sure sounds like they are stripped. Do other filters stay on the lens under the same conditions? Also Does the filter also have plastic threads?
- FTn
i found that if I always adjust the filter in the direction that tightens it up it will stay tight on the lens. You may have to think about it at first but it will become second nature fairly quickly
FTn wrote:
If I remember correctly the threads are plastic on that lens. It sure sounds like they are stripped. Do other filters stay on the lens under the same conditions? Also, what brand filter are you using? Does it also have plastic threads?
- FTn
This is definitely something to look at. The Nikon 18-55mm lens does have plastic threads. It's possible that a filter was over tightened, stripping out the threads. You might get a magnifying glass to inspect the threads closely. Compare the threads on that lens with another lens you have.
I've learned to be careful which way I turn the filter. Mine came loose once, but didn't drop off.
CO wrote:
I do exactly what Mr. Shapiro is saying above. When adjusting the polarization, I always turn in the clockwise direction so it remains tight.
Good suggestion. Actually, counterclockwise tightens when viewed from the back of the camera.
bpulv wrote:
First of all, if the filter you are talking about is a UV or clear filter, you are wasting you money. Those filters do nothing to enhance your photographs. For better lens protection and also prevent contrast robbing lens flare, always keep a lens hood on your lens when it is not capped. The only filter you should need for color digital photography is a CPL (Circular Polarizer)....
And CPL filters shouldn't be left on a lens all the time, anyway. There are times when all they do is introduce more flare or reduce the amount of light entering the lens (1.25 to 2.25 stops is typical) and forcing you to use higher, noisier ISOs or slower, more shake susceptible shutter speeds or larger apertures with less depth of field. There are even times when a C-Pol will spoil a photograph... Don't ever try to photograph a rainbow with one, for example. Or a dramatic scene reflecting in a lake.
While a C-Pol is the most useful filter for digital... it's not definitely something that should be left on a lens all the time.
amfoto1 wrote:
And CPL filters shouldn't be left on a lens all the time, anyway. There are times when all they do is introduce more flare or reduce the amount of light entering the lens (1.25 to 2.25 stops is typical) and forcing you to use higher, noisier ISOs or slower, more shake susceptible shutter speeds or larger apertures with less depth of field. There are even times when a C-Pol will spoil a photograph... Don't ever try to photograph a rainbow with one, for example. Or a dramatic scene reflecting in a lake.
While a C-Pol is the most useful filter for digital... it's not definitely something that should be left on a lens all the time.
And CPL filters shouldn't be left on a lens all th... (
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If turned appropriately a CPL will boost rainbows or reflections. These are probably the times I find them most useful!
I certainly agree about not leaving then on permanantly.
This example shot through polarised sunglasses held vertically shows how they can help with boost reflections:
Roadside pond, NZ by
Mike Kanssen, on Flickr
Thanks for the many replies, including those from people who didn't read my original post carefully. I am not referring to UV or clear filters.
I'm talking about NEW Nikon circular polarizing filters, which have metal rings. I have never cross-threaded any of them (which would render them difficult to remove, which is not the issue I've had!). I hand-tighten them - no filter wrench used.
No, I don't leave the filter on all the time. But when I'm out hiking in an environment where I want to stop frequently to photograph something, I leave it on so that I don't lose time (and light!) when composing a shot. (I'm not a person who hikes out to a specific destination just to photograph that one spot, taking minutes or longer to get "just" the right composition or the "perfect" light. I grab images as I'm moving along my path toward a destination, so there's little time to spend creating the ideal image.)
I suspect that a couple of posters might be correct, that I'm inadvertently loosening the filter when I adjust it. I'll probably just have to train myself to rotate the filter only clockwise (viewed from the front) to avoid losing another one.
I have one ultra thin polarizer in a bag somewhere, not sure if it's a Nikon. The ring you turn is so thin that I often found myself unscrewing the filter. I started doing what Mr. Shapiro recommended above, always turning the ring clockwise.
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