E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

There are many techniques for minimizing or eliminating refection in eyeglasses. Most of the are realted to formal portrait photograhy where the photographer has control over the lights and can make adjustments to the exact position of the eyeglasses and can direct the subject. I usually don't recommend polarizing filters for portraits because they also minimize or eliminate the desirable specular highlights.

Most of these methods are based on the ANGLE OF INCIDENTS principle, that is the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection. If the light source is at an oblique angle to the reflective surface of the eyeglasses, the camera won't "see" the reflections. Raising the main light source, tilting the eyeglasses SLIGHTLY downward where the temple of the frame won't appear tilted are two practical and time-honored methods.

In a planned formal portrait shoot, I often have the subject borrow a BLANK eyeglasses frame from their optical supplier so they will appear natural in their portraits, wearing their glasses, but there are no issues with reflections, the appearance of magnification, or de-magnification of the eyes, lines form bifocal lenses or darkness from tints.

If you are shooting candid or impromptu images or working out of doors with available light, as for refection in glasses. you have your work cut out for you. Tilting the glasses, have folks lower their heads slightly, changing camera position may help.

Focus? I have been photographing folks with glasses for a VERY long time and have never encountered focus issues. Perhaps you are experiencing some optical effect whereby the lenses in the eyeglasses are affecting or "fooling" the autofocus system in your camera and/or you are shooting wide open where the aperture setting does not provide enoug depth of field to compensate. This is just a guess! Perhaps try to focus of the frames rather than the lenses of the glasses.

chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

I read through the thread and Mr. Shapiro finally hit on the bedrock; Angle of Incidence. You just have to find the correct angle to shoot from, or set the model to negate reflections. I had to shoot finished and very shiney brass instruments which was a crazy maker because of the curved surfaces...needless to say alot of experimentation. To simplify a little: when you're shooting flat art on a wall, for example, and have control of the lighting, you'd typically have a light on each side angled in at roughly 45 degrees (just imagine the lites reflecting back into each other) and the camera in the middle...you should have no reflections. Of course, if the art is covered with glass that could present more problems. So, preceding comments regarding tilting the subjects glasses slightly, for example, are merely dealing with the Angle of Incidence, which I think is the thrust here. Limiting light sources is a must, that way you have control.

Fredrick Loc: Former NYC, now San Francisco Bay Area

F8 Forever Loc: Lng Island, NY

For years photojournalists and video people have just used blank rims with no glass. It's damn difficult to find just the right angles to reduce reflections, so the answer is to have no reflections.

I have a collection of cheap dollar store readers and sunglasses that look just fine with the lenses popped out.

williejoha

There are a few tricks that I use when shooting individuals or groups with eye glass wearers. When using a tripod, I have a piece of red tape about 18” below the lense. I ask the wearers to look at the tape and then without raising their head to look into the camera. At close distant I adjust accordingly. When free holding I ask them to look at my fly ( always good for a chuckle ) and then into the camera just as above.
Works every time. Good luck.
WJH