WaltD712

What is the differences between the Canon EOS Rebel T7 and the Canon EOS Rebel 1500 T7 and the Canon EOS Rebel 2000 T7

Dave327 Loc: Duluth, GA. USA

There is no difference - the 2000 notes a camera sold in the Americas and the 1500 denotes Asia.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Wiki is a good source of information to resolve this question: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_2000D

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

[quote=WaltD712]What is the differences between the Canon EOS Rebel T7 and the Canon EOS Rebel 1500 T7 and the Canon EOS Rebel 2000 T7[/quote
T7 = made for sale in the Americas
Kiss X90 = for sale in Japan
1500D = for sale in SE Asia
2000D = for sale in Europe

And that is where the factory warranty is, so if you buy a Gray market it either needs a third party warranty, a good local repair shop and you pay cash or you have to ship it to the Canon Warranty facility for the region it was made to be sold in.

WaltD712

Thank you Dave

WaltD712

Thank You Robert

WaltD712

Thank You

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

But they are both Canon's, didn't think there were any differences in CANON camera's?

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

That's correct... It's the same camera with different names in different markets. In N. America, it's an EOS Rebel T7.... In Southeast Asia it's a Canon EOS 2000D... In Japan it's a Canon EOS Kiss X90... And in other parts of the world, it's an EOS 1500D. Same camera, many different names depending upon where it's being sold. (Canon has done this for decades with their "Rebel/Kiss" series, both film models and now digital... I have no idea why. I always thought it was rather silly. But, hey, what do I know? Canon has been the #1 camera company worldwide for decades now. They must have a pretty good idea what they're doing.)

Whatever you call it, the Rebel T7/1500D is simply Canon's cheapest and most entry-level camera model being sold worldwide. (Note: I don't know where, but in one or two markets, there's an even cheaper and more entry-level 4000D being sold. I also don't know how it differs from the T7/1500D.)

If at all possible, I recommend "stepping up" to a better model. There are some important things missing from the T7/1500D.

For one, it (and I think maybe the 4000D) is the only current Canon DSLR that doesn't have a self-cleaning sensor. I shot with DSLR that lacked that feature years ago and had to do frequent manual cleanings. Those are far less frequently necessary with the self-cleaning sensor feature that's found on every other Canon DSLR and mirrorless camera! You should plan to spend more money on a sensor cleaning kit and learning how to do it yourself. Typically a full kit of the tools and supplies for that purpose will end up costing about $125 or more. The alternative is to pay to have the cleaning done by a pro, though depending upon where you live it might cost $25 to $50 per cleaning. How often you need to clean the sensor will really depend upon the conditions where you use the camera. I sometimes have to work in dusty conditions and used to have to clean my cameras monthly or more often. Now with self-cleaning sensors, I probably do it once a year or a little more often. While it can vary a lot depending upon how often you need to do sensor cleanings, the cost of doing it yourself or having it done might ultimately offset the savings from buying a cheaper, more entry-level camera. Of course, even the cameras with a self-cleaning sensor still need an occasional manual cleaning. But it's far less often, saving you money whether you do it yourself or pay to have someone else do it.

Another feature that's missing from the T7/1500D is Micro Focus Adjustment. None of the Rebel-series cameras have this. It allows the user to fine tune the focus accuracy of individual lenses to their particular DSLR. It's certainly not a feature everyone uses and you would need to step up to an 80D or 90D or higher models to get it. (Note: You ain't foolin' us Canon. We know the 77D is actually still a Rebel-series model, in spite of it's name... It only differs slightly from the T7i, most of the important specs and a lot of the build are the same, plus the 77D was actually a replacement for the T6s... a Rebel model).

All the Rebel/xxxD/xxxxD/Kiss models also use a "penta-mirror" to save weight and cost. This makes for a slightly smaller, less bright viewfinder than you'll find on the 80D, 90D and higher DSLR models that use a true pentaprism. (Note: Most mirrorless cameras don't use either... Those that have a viewfinder at all, usually have an electronic viewfinder. That's good in some ways such brighter viewing in low light conditions, but bad in others such as much faster battery drain.)

The T7/1500D also lacks Canon's "Flicker Reduction" or "Anti-Flicker" feature, which all other Canon DSLRs and mirrorless have included, ever since the feature was introduced on the 7D Mark II in 2014. This is a particularly important feature if ever shooting under fluorescent, sodium vapor and similar lighting, which is common in commercial spaces, sports arenas and gymnasiums, and even increasingly in residences. This type of lighting makes accurate exposures difficult.... It's not uncommon for half or more of your shots done under it to come out severely under-exposed and with an ugly color cast. The reason is that these lights actually cycle on and off very rapidly (50 or 60 cycles per second). It's so fast that our eyes don't see it... but our cameras sure do! The Anti-Flicker feature almost completely solves the problem. It detects the cycling and times the shutter release to the peak output of the lights. It works very well, I can tell you from a lot of personal experience both now using it on my 7DII cameras... and having a lot of my images ruined by the lights when using older cameras without this feature. T7/1500D is one of the few Canon without this feature.

The T7/1500D also uses the most antiquated AF system among Canon cameras. This same AF system is essentially unchanged since being introduced on the Canon 20D in mid-2004. It is a 9-point system with only the center AF point being the higher performance and more sensitive "dual axis" type.

The T7/1500D doesn't have an articulated Touch screen either (which is found on the SL2, SL3, T7i, T8i, and other models). And, while it has "Live View" using that rear LCD, it does not have Canon's fast, accurate "Dual Pixel CMOS AF"... It uses the old, slow "contrast detection" method of focusing in Live View. This is way too slow for most video work, so if you want the camera for video, plan to focus manually.

The T7i, 77D, T8i and higher models also are "f/8 capable". This simply means that their better AF systems are able to autofocus more lens/teleconverter combinations. For example, they are able to autofocus an f/5.6 lens with a 1.4X teleconverter attached... or an f/4 lens with a 2X TC. The T7/1500D (and the SL2/SL3) are "f/5.6 limited"... they will not be able to autofocus the above combinations at all. They need an f/4 lens (larger, more expensive) to use a 1.4X TC... or an f/2.8 lens (usually even larger and a lot more expensive) to use with a 2X TC, to be able to autofocus. This carries over into regular use, too. Typically the "f/8 capable" autofocus systems are still able to focus at -2EV or -3EV (moonlight) light levels. The "f/5.6 limited" systems usually are unable to focus lower than -1EV or -0.5EV. (And these cameras have smaller viewfinders too, making manual focusing more difficult.)

I also think it and the 4000D are the only models still using Canon's old Digic 4 processor. Other current models are using much more powerful, four or five generation newer Digic 8 or Digic X.

So, there are a lot of reasons to think about stepping up to a little better model, if at all possible. Yes, it will cost more. But it will also be a much better camera in many ways.

The Rebel SL2 or SL3 (also EOS 200D or 250D) has many of the above additional features. The smallest/lightest available DLSR, the only thing the SL models share with the more entry-level cameras is their basic 9-point AF system and the limitations that come with that. I'm pretty sure it's got everything else the T7/1500D lacks, though. It has self-cleaning sensor, etc., etc.

The next steps up are the Rebel T7i (800D), EOS 77D, T8i (850D). These cameras have all the above features and a much higher performance Live View/video AF system, as well as a much more high performance 45-point (all dual axis type) viewfinder-based, phase detection AF system. The earlier Rebel T6i and T6s (750D and 760D) models are also often available for some savings, use a very good 19-point (all dual axis type) AF system in the viewfinder, but a bit slower "hybrid" Live View/video AF.

Also watch out for the lenses sold "in kit" with the T7/1500D.... Usually those most entry-level models are bundled with the EF-S 18-55mm IS "III". That lens is okay, but the EF-S 18-55mm IS "STM" that's offered with most of the other cameras is better. It has faster, quieter, more consistent and accurate "stepper motor" focus drive. The "III" uses a cheaper, noisier, slower "micro motor".

There are also two-lens kits, where in addition to an 18-55mm, there's a telephoto zoom. Usually with the T7/1500D that's the EF 75-300mm "III". This is Canon's cheapest and worst telephoto zoom. It's about $100 more expensive, but the EF-S 55-250mm IS STM lens is better in every respect. It has faster, quieter, more accurate stepper motor focus drive.... It has image stabilization.... and, probably most importantly, it has noticeably better image quality. The 75-300mm "III" fails in all these respects. (Note: Not to be confused with the several different EF 70-300mm models, all of which are quite good though they tend to be a bit more expensive than the EF-S 55-250mm. There also were one or two earlier versions of the EF-S 55-250mm IS without STM.... Those are fine for image stabilization and better for image quality than the 75-300 III, but aren't faster/quieter focusing like the STM version.)

Those bundles with one or two "kit" lenses can be good values... the lenses are often significantly discounted compared to buying separately. However, you have to be careful about exactly what lens is included.