bleirer

Very often the same or very similar sensor is used for the mirrorless as for the dslr. I don't see how the absence of the the mirror changes the exposure?

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

And what’s the difference in their reading the backlit scene and yours?

speedmaster Loc: Kendall, FL

Sometimes is better to get a grainy picture than no picture at all... There are situations where manual should be used and ones that an auto is the savior. Just learn to know each of them and based on the conditions chose what to use. I'm far from being a pro, not even a good amateur but I had a couple of friends working for famous newspapers that many times went to auto albeit being so pro that they were able to set a manual shot almost immediately. In conditions of fast moving, changing light, and foreground/background, auto allow to focus in the composition and get a great picture that otherwise would be lost due to those dinamic conditions.
My grandfather always said that the best tool for the job is the one you know how to use...
Cheers
Speed

Pixeldawg Loc: Suzhou, China

I use manual mode for everything. A bit of a control freak when it comes to my images, so I want to ensure that whatever I shoot is going to be to a specific standard. Just how I roll. I almost always shoot at either 25, 400 or 1600, depending on the subject. For my "pretty" photos, ISO of 25 and a tripod. For general work (photojournalism for me), 400 ISO and indoor or night time sports 1600 ISO unless I am permitted to hang lights (for indoor), then it goes back down to 400.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

You need to decide whether you want a silhouette or a blown out background. The camera’s meter is little help in that case.

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

You are so full of yourself. Or maybe you just don’t understand how EC works. Your sunny 16 is no better than a meter in that situation.

TonyBrown

You can restrict the maximum iso value on your menu. I normally set it low then adjust upwards as conditions dictate. For wildlife action bif etc. I find auto iso is a must.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

I have a pretty good handle on EC.

But you haven't mastered it: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-594270-1.html

And it didn't help you avoid blown highlights: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-654585-1.html#11373069

Xpatch Loc: New York, Antigua, GT.

fuji has a setting where you can set the range of iso and base sessions. I’m use Auto or kelvin if it’s tricky and also with a flash I was thought you must be in manual. Ishhot RAW Bhutto will ad a sim for comparison,if needed.

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

Yeah, just because I may have made some different choices than you doesn’t mean I lack understanding. I took a look at your work and don’t agree with some of your choices either.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

A wise choice for you would have been to not post evidence of your lack of skill.

Dan Thornton Loc: Corpus Christi, Texas

If auto ISO gave me the perfect exposure every time, I would use it because I am lazy and it would make taking pictures simpler. However, I shoot with Canon 5D mark IV and using auto ISO often results in slightly overexposed images. It might just be 1/3 of a stop, but for my taste, I would prefer underexposure of 1/3 of a stop when shooting outdoors with normal light. When I shot with film, I would tell the camera I was shooting with 32 ASA when I was shooting with 25 ASA. This resulted in richer more saturated color that I preferred.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

Just to be clear, with M+AutoISO you retain complete manual control over the three exposure triangle variables, so it's a bit of a misnomer to call it an auto mode (as some people do), and it's a mistake to suggest that it isn't a manual mode (as some people do).

The main difference between M+AutoISO and M without AutoISO is the way exposure compensation is achieved. The other main difference is that without AutoISO the correct values aren't provided by the camera so you have to do it yourself visually (by keeping an eye on the meter scale while at the same time keeping an eye on the three variable values).

If you add EC to M+AutoISO you retain complete manual control over the whole exposure while the camera assists you by keeping the exposure triangle variables correct. With the method I described it can be implemented simply by playing off shutter speed against ISO - so that's two things to keep an eye on instead of four. It can also be said that that the whole method is intuitive, simple and doesn't require learning anything new.

And did I mention that it's fully manual (because you retain complete manual control over the three exposure triangle variables)?

R.G. Loc: Scotland

If you understand exposure compensation you know what causes those situations and also how to deal with them. Plus if the 1/3 of a stop isn't enough to blow any highlights you haven't lost anything and it's easy to correct in post.

AnthonyBiss Loc: Toronto, Ontario

To resolve this kind of issue, I turned off my Auto on setting in my camera.
set my ISO to 200 and S/W to manual for all of my macro type shooting. Same for others.