User ID

No need to reach 1:1 when copying a 24x36 subject onto a 16x24 sensor.

BTW I can find no references to any DX versions of a 60 macro (just a typo ?)

A few inexpensive common accessories will complete the OP’s set up.

russraman Loc: New York City

I used the same set-up with the Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2D and a Nikon ES-1 AND a Nikon BR-5 62mm Adapter Ring on my D850, D810 and Df cameras, and the results have been amazingly pleasing... see attached photo of me with my dad taken in 1951...

"Me and Dad in 1951"

(Download)

User ID

A 60 macro and ES-1 is a turn key set up for any FX body. You just screw it all together and shoot.

Are you aware the ES-1 has some distance adjustment built in ? If you received it fully collapsed, that may not be obvious. OTOH if you use it with flash, are you having an exposure problem ?

BTW one of the other replies involved a tripod and great concern over vibration ... perhaps an unthinking reaction to using “macro equipment”. Whatever your problem, don’t further complicate it with vibration concerns. There are none. You can use this set up on a galloping horse.

Whatever you’ve done so far, please report what has actually gone wrong.

User ID

There is no functional difference between an ES-1 and an ES-2. Switching will not solve anything. Don’t wanna be barking up the wrong tree for a solution :-(

The ES-2 is certainly a more elegant package ... more accessories, and a lock for the distance adjustment. Otherwise, it’s the same device.

Danielmb

Assuming you are talking about 35mm slides, see if you can find a Nikon Coolscan IV scanner. It does a good job and the folks at VUESCAN scanning software have designed up to date software for it. Highly recommended and not tool pricey.

ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area

At full extension, you should get half the slide image at 1:1 since you have a half frame sensor. You need to double the lens extension to get a full frame slide image on a half frame sensor.

AnthonyBiss Loc: Toronto, Ontario

Thanks. Got it.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

This is designed for any FX Nikon F mount camera and either version of the 60mm Micro-Nikkor:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1357884-REG/nikon_27192_es_2_film_digitalizing_adapet.html

ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area

That will teach me to respond before coffee. Set your lens to half life-size and a slide will fill your APSC sensor. Adjust the front distance on the slide holder for focus.

AnthonyBiss Loc: Toronto, Ontario

I thank everyone for the threads on my subject matter.

User ID

You need to increase the subject distance, which calls for a DECREASE in the lens extension, NOT a doubling of the lens extension.

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Also just to clarify, although the matter of “half frame / full frame” may seem like a simple “half or double” relationship when switching back and forth, half and double apply ONLY to area. Magnification is linear whereas area is quadratic.

Area is, yes, half or double, aka 50% or 200%, but for linear matters (such as magnification) the relationship is 71% or 141% (depends on which direction your half frame full frame conversion is going).


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Optional extra detailed stuff:

If you square 0.71 and also 1.41 you will get 0.5 and 2.0 aka half and double. By squaring, you’re switching from linear (magnification) to quadratic (area). From a 35mm slide, you copy to full frame sensors at 100% (1:1) and to half frame sensors at 71% (1:1.41). If copying to quarter frame (“micro 4/3”) then you work at 50% (1:2).

Notice that 50% is NOT for half frame but is for quarter frame. Half frame is one half of a full frame, but with equivalent lenses half frame images are not half size. They are 70% size. Quarter frame images are half size.

There will be a slight discrepancy in actual use cuz APSC sensors are not perfectly half frame but are 2mm shy of truly half frame. True half frame would not be the preferred 2:3 shape.

User ID

RE: all that math above.

That is not idle theoretical ideation. I actually have fitted the ES-1 to to the 60mm Nikkor for both FF and APSC, using the recommended extra distancing tubes to get the whole slide onto APSC, and added even more distancing tubes to get the whole slide onto m4/3 using Olympus macro lenses.

The Olympus rig looks kinda funky with its whole lotta distancing tubes, but there is method to the madness: The lowly little Olympus can copy slides at 80MP using sensor shift hi rez. And if your slide is reeeeally sharp, you can delete a few tubes and copy a 10x13mm portion of your film original as an 80MP file. The Olympus lens goes beyond 1:1 using only its internal focusing.

10x13mm is also about the size of Kodak Instamatic 110 “pocket camera” negs. If you need to digitize any of those you’ll hafta make a little cardboard adapter to fit them into an ES-1 or -2.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

You’ve been having an interesting conversation with yourself!

User ID

For sure hardly anyone reads such stuff.

But the OP appears to be sifting through all the info and it’s still his thread, having kept pretty close to his opening query.

ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area

Once I realized my mistake in my first response, I dig out my old 55mm Micro Nikkor and a 35mm slide. At full extension, the 55 micro is at half life size. With that setup, the slide filled half my full frame viewfinder.