Ed Walker Loc: Eclectic, Alabama U.S.A.

Can anyone share your experience with the Ultimate Lens Hood? It is a flexible silicone hood that claims to eliminate glare from windows.

Quixdraw Loc: x

I use OEM hoods on every lens all the time except for on camera Flash. The rubber / silicon hoods work, and the ones that fold flat are handy if you are tight for space, but they don't do any more than the rigid ones. The one time a camera was snatched out of my hand and went lens down on pavement, the plastic hood took the impact and broke - camera and lens were fine. Partly luck and partly the hood.

davesit Loc: Lansing, New York

I played with one and found it very unwieldy. I also believe each lens hood is designed for a specific lens for the proper geometry and angle of view. A hard lens hood also protects the front of the lens. And a CPL filter does a better job in eliminating reflections from windows.

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

I find that type of hood convenient for putting it up against glass to photograph JellyFish etc. Other times it is the OEM lens hood.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

I bought one a couple of years ago. So far haven’t used it other than to test. Yes, it is clunky to use.

obsidian

Yes I bought the wider diameter and also the 2nd generation shorter diameter. It came in handy when we went on a bus tour in Patagonia. My shots from the bus eliminated glare from the bus light and other ambient light. I use them regularly if have to take photos from the glass window of high rise towers.
I took this photo from the glass window in Buenos Aires from the executive lounge. The light reflections on the window from the bright lounge were totally eliminated.

I wish there is a suction capability of the rubber so I don't have to use my left hand to secure it while a use the right hand with the remote

Bear2 Loc: Southeast,, MI

Beautiful shot of BA.
Duane

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

The only true way to eliminate glare from windows is either with a rubber lens hood that can be pressed up against the glass or by the use of a Polarizing Filter.

SonyBug

I've got and use on tours, a black bag sort of thing with suction cups that stick to the window. Stick the lens in the back end, pull the string to make it tight and shoot away. Think I got it at BH Photo. Works really well.

DougS Loc: Central Arkansas

It would be much better if it were stiffer, to make it a hands free operation. I have to (left hand) hold the hood in place, while holding the camera/shutter button with my right. Would be much better if not required to hand hold in place, against the glass. That being said, it does do what it is supposed to do, it does eliminate the glare on glass, and wish I had had it before my last trip to Alaska, winter of 2017, while in a small tour bus to Coldfoot. Otherwise, very easy to attach to lens, and makes for a nice cushion in the camera bag. A little awkward/difficult to hold against aquarium glass...

Ed Walker Loc: Eclectic, Alabama U.S.A.

Thanks to all for your prompt replies. As we do tend to take trips that include sightseeing by bus, I will probably invest in one.

Todd G

Glad your lens is okay. Hope you beat the shit out of the person who tried to snatch it.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

I purchased one and find it is handy. I don't often shoot through glass unless there is no alternative. Oftentimes the glass is tinted, dirty and poorly maintained, scratched, and would seriously affect picture quality.

I always use lens hoods- they look cool, offer some protection that's debatable) but their main purpose is to reduce or eliminate contrast robbing flare due to extraneous light striking the lens. Unfortunately, many of them fall short of that main requirement.

The Ultimate Hodd is wide enough, flexible enough but in some situations, many not are deep enough to prevent flare.

So...when I am working in difficult backlighting conditions or in the studio with kicker lights I use BELLOWS lens hoods or AKA compendium lens shades. Theses can be adjusted to the exact depth need to prevent flare just short of vignetting. They enable quick filter insertion and removal and can accommodate specialized vignetters in the front end. I have 3 models for wide-angle, normal/medium telephoto, and longer lenses. The larger ones are no somethings you can run around with but are great for static subjects, landscapes, architecture, interior, and studio work.

Poorly made lens shades can cause more damage than they prevent- they can cross-thread, jam and at the same time be inadequate for good flare prevention.

My big bellows shades remind me of my favorite scene from the movie Crocodile Dundee, "That ain't a knife- THIS is a KINFE! Those little plastic things that look like bottomless ashtrays ain't a lens shade- THIS is a lens shade! (see attached image)

Funny story- My wife's late Uncle Sol was an old-time portrait and wedding photographer. He had a Speed Graphic with a black (spray painted) business end of a plumber's helper (toilet plunger) affixed to the lens board with epoxy cement. The spray paint did not obscure the manufacturer's name proudly embossed on the rim of the plunger "Handy-Dandy Water Closet Supply Company- Made in the U.S.A". I'm sure that brought a smile from many surprised brides and grooms! Uncle was rather frugal!

Oh, Ansel Adams, made his own deep lens shades out of black construction paper, for his 8x10 camera, to maximize depth. I saw him do that at one of his workshops many years ago and it is written in one of the first editions of his book "The Camera".

williejoha

Years ago I used a soft lens shade on the A1 I owned at the time. Over time it lost its shape, due primarily because of the way it was stored. Hard shades is the only way for me.
WJH

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