SunBeach1962 wrote:
. . . is the glass any lighter for the same quality?
Sounds like your issue is with the weight.
Longer lenses are always going to be heavy. They have a lot of metal in that long tube, to start with. There are some things you can look at to reduce some of the weight, though.
Lenses with smaller maximum apertures usually have smaller size. Less glass, so less metal around it. They also tend to be less expensive.
Non zoom lenses, or ‘prime’ lenses, typically have fewer pieces of glass and no added metal inside for shifting the position of those extra lens elements As you vary the focal length.
Older lens designs (not strictly a ‘telephoto’ design) use fewer elements, and sometimes are lighter. Let me explain that: a single lens, like a magnifying glass, or eyeglass lens, has a focal length based on the shape it is ground to. It could be 50 mm, or it could be 1000 mm. If it was made of two elements which corrected for color aberrations at two wave lengths of light, it would be an ‘achromat’ lens, as most precision lenses are.
The focal length is the distance from the lens to the sensor or film when focused at infinity. Focus on something closer and the lens moves away from the sensor, so the barrel, tube, lens mount or bellows has to extend.
Here is where it gets tricky. Optical trickery.
Some smart people found a way to add more glass and get the magnification of a 500 mm lens, but with the lens physically closer to the film (this was back in the days of film). They called their designs ‘telephoto’ to distinguish them from the ‘long focus’ , and older/simpler, lens designs. Now we use the term telephoto for anything that gives us a bigger image, but there are plenty of older ‘long focus’ designs that can be found used. Some are truly excellent optics. For example, the Leitz Telyt 400, 560, and 800 mm lenses. These are two cemented elements mounted at the end of a long 2 piece tube, and as sharp as Leica lenses can be expected to be. Really top quality in a simple design. Because the tube is mostly just a tube there have been a lot of these lenses adapted to Nikon and Canon (and other brands) mounts. What you give up is auto focus and automatic aperture. For most people that is a lot to give up.
At the other end of the price (and quality) spectrum, in the 1970s there were lots of inexpensive 400 mm f/8 and f/6.8 lenses being imported in the then popular ‘T’ mount. A ‘T’ mount adapter ring let you use these on any camera brand. Again, no auto anything in features. Several months ago I saw a box of these (various brands-basically identical) at Roberts Photo in downtown Indianapolis for $10 each. I didn’t see them listed on line, though.
Remember my comment on telephoto lenses? Well, some more smart optical designers realized they could take just the glass and with a few tweaks adapt ANY lens to be a telephoto lens. And then we had teleadapters. Those are still on the market and you might want to look into them.
The typical teleadapter goes between your prime lens and your camera. It intercepts the focused light from the prime lens and spreads it out over twice, 4-times or 8-times the area, giving an apparently larger image It is as if the focal length of you lens is magnified by 1.4, 2, or 3 times. With a 135mm prime lens and a 2x teleconverter you would have the equivalent of a 270mm lens.
I’m the old days you lost a little optical quality (what would you expect from putting a $40 lens behind a $200 prime lens?), but now major lens companies make higher quality teleconverters, and some are matched to specific long lenses. In my opinion: They work better (usually) with single-focal length lenses rather than zooms.
Teleconverters designed for your lens mount should maintain autofocus and auto exposure on your camera. They weigh little.
Nice thing about teleconverters Is that the minimum focusing distance of the main lens stays the same. This can give some really dramatic close-ups with a macro lens, and let you use long focus of telephoto lenses on nearby objects.
Problem with the design of teleconverters is that because they take whatever light is coming through the main lens and spread it over a larger the image is proportionally dimmer. A 2x teleconverter gave you the equivalent of a 2 f/stop light loss. With film, that could be a problem. With digital you just kick up the exposure index on the camera. A 1.4x or 1.5x teleconverter would lose 1 f/stop.
Finally. a lot of the weight in your lens is the metal tube. With long lenses you can replace that with a lighter bellows. I haven’t checked to see if Novoflex is still in business, but they had a telephoto system which had a lot of faithful users. Interchangeable lens units were mounted to the end of a bellows. The bellows was mounted on a shoulder stock and could be adjusted by pulling a trigger-like mechanism for very rapid focusing. The weight was a bit less than a metal-tubed telephoto lens and (according to stories I heard) the system balanced nicely on that gunstock mount.
So 4 possible options for you to look into. Hope you find something (new or very old and very used) which fits your needs.