Snap-on ratchet restoration (Page 2): You have to soak them over night or longer in White Vinegar...

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

tramsey wrote:

The only thing I know about electricity is flip a switch and the light comes on and that's it.
I have some tools that my Dad gave me about sixty years ago, seems like last week. I stored them in my shed and they've rusted so they are nearly unusable. Vinegar doesn't touch them. I would like to try this. Would you tell me step by step in VERY lay men's language how to set it up?

You have to soak them over night or longer in White Vinegar

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

pmorin wrote:

Don’t know if you have a bench grinder, but I’ve found the best way for me to get rid of rusty surfaces on steel is to use a wire wheel and then a buffer wheel on a bench grinder.
If they’re cleaned and polished it reduces any further damage. If the tool is a ratchet then depending on the amount of rust the mechanism will need to be taken apart, cleaned and greased too.

Its apparent that you came to the party late and missed that this is Part 2
I have been a mechanic over 60 yrs and know how to clean things up, I detest wire wheels and very seldom use them. The rust on this RATCHET was way beyond the wire wheel stage.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Manglesphoto wrote:

White Vinegar will work too br I didn't have a cho... (show quote)

Have you tried any of your own electroplating? I’ve done some silver plating in the past, but never tried nickel...

pmorin Loc: Huntington Beach, Palm Springs

Manglesphoto wrote:

Its apparent that you came to the party late and missed that this is Part 2
I have been a mechanic over 60 yrs and know how to clean things up, I detest wire wheels and very seldom use them. The rust on this RATCHET was way beyond the wire wheel stage.

What are you going to do to fix the pitting?

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

TriX wrote:

Have you tried any of your own electroplating? I’ve done some silver plating in the past, but never tried nickel...

Not yet, but I may nickel plate this ratchet when I get to that point. It depends on what it looks like once its cleaned up.
I'M leaning toward parkerizing. I have a 1/2" Ferret handel Snap-on ratchet that is finished "OD".
I'M looking up the process right now.
OH well it looks like parkerizing is out for the time being, cost too much for such a small job, need three tanks and a way to heat them. Not gonna happen!!!!

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

pmorin wrote:

What are you going to do to fix the pitting?

The Ratchet is close to 100 yrs. old, I'M not to worried about the minor pitting. it's more about making it work and looking as good as possible without destroying it's character.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Manglesphoto wrote:

Not yet, but I may nickel plate this ratchet when I get to that point. It depends on what it looks like once its cleaned up.
I'M leaning toward parkerizing. I have a 1/2" Ferret handel Snap-on ratchet that is finished "OD".
I'M looking up the process right now.
OH well it looks like parkerizing is out for the time being, cost too much for such a small job, need three tanks and a way to heat them. Not gonna happen!!!!

I consult for a company that produces precision parts for the aerospace/defense industry, so we deal with plating and finishes regularly, but almost always on aluminum and stainless. My only experience with parkerizing over the years has been on socket head cap screws that are routinely parkerized, and I was not impressed with their rust resistance. Electrolys Nickel, on the other hand, is an excellent, very hard finish, and along with hard anodizing, is our preferred finish for aluminum. Wish I knew more about regular steel finishes, but almost all my design work has been with Aluminum or stainless, except for hardware. I like Cad plating and have no use for clear chromate.

GreenReaper

For a really interesting story about using electrolysis, read the story about the restoration (somewhat) of the Monitor. We visited it several years ago, and it's quite a process, talk about a rust bucket!!

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

TriX wrote:

I consult for a company that produces precision pa... (show quote)

Parkerizing is okay for firearms and tools that are used frequently and oiled, but it is a butt ugly finish, but like gun bluing if not maintained will rust in a heart beat.The most durable finish I have found is browning, its a controlled rust process using a Nitric acid, sulfuric acid and iron mixture, the problem I had 50 yrs ago was obtaining the nitric acid. The 100 yr. old directions said to combine the two acids and add the iron in a well ventilated area Lol that was an understatement, I did do it outdoors , and had a red mushroom cloud about 3 ft. in dia. and 30ft high. The finish is fantastic!! when my guns were stolen in 1995 the thieves dumped the no value guns in the woods, the Browned Flintlock rifle was the only one that didn't rust. They were recovered about a 1/2 mile from my home two weeks after the theft. Only one of the high dollar guns was recovered and it took three years for me to get it back. They did catch the thieves one got 7 yrs jail time one got 5yrs probation, I got screwed!!.

WessoJPEG Loc: Cincinnati, Ohio

jerryc41 wrote:

That looks like a good project. Any idea how old that is?

Keep taking pictures, and keep posting them. I always take pictures when I disassemble something for the first time.

Just took my weed trimmer apart, muffler was clogged.
Put back together and runs good, but have to bolts left over.😂

Stephan G

Manglesphoto wrote:

Thank you for commenting Bob.
Step two is coming shortly.

Hopefully, in "short time" instead of with "shorts".