ggab Loc: ?

I would think that if he is going to check the distance settings on the lens along with the rest of the process, it would be easier to simply check the AF/MF switch.

ggab Loc: ?

With the small screen and polarized glasses, chimping (checking the image) is almost useless.
I, infact, turn off the 2 sec. review it saves battery. I will periodically check an image with my reading glasses, zooming in 10x to see if the focus is ok.

I am willing to bet it will be a long time before this happens again.
We have all done it.

dgwoodward2

To your point of the subject title, the obvious is yes to adjust your focus using all the methods outlined previously. I go back to you pointing out that you were checking the images but there appeared a variety of contributing factors that could have impacted your ability to view the screen to pick up the issue. I used to face similar issues as on such a small screen on the back, sunlight, etc. can mask the image quality. It was at that point I decided to invest in a Hoodman to be able to effectively see the image in a real isolated situation. Have not made the mistake since.

JohnKTX Loc: Dallas

One other idea- whenever I shoot in bright light, I bring my Hoodman loupe along. It has saved me countless times, and I’ve had numerous photographers ask about it, then tell me how helpful it is. It’s small, light and a great tool.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Hoodman/Ntt/hoodman+loupe/N/0

mflowe Loc: Port Deposit, MD

I think you answered your main problem yourself when you said you'll always make sure your on autfocus from now on. If you're shooting landscapes I see no reason to use anything other than single point autofocus{if you're using autofocus}. Focus where you want and then flip off autofocus and you can recompose. Or use back button focus if your camera has that function.

47greyfox Loc: on the edge of the Colorado front range

Having been bitten by similar bugs in the day. It took a while to make it a habit, but the last thing I do with a camera is return all settings to my “normal” before putting it away after an outing.

davidrb Loc: Half way there on the 45th Parallel

If you are serious about your photography you must get rid of polarized glasses lenses. They caused you to make a photograph before you got to see it. Why did you actuate the shutter if you could not see focus, or lack of it? Landscape shooting requires a polarized filter on the lens and that will prevent your eye-glasses from being the same. One polarizor has to go in order for you to be able to see.

tcthome Loc: NJ

Can happen to the best. Just slow down & check your settings before u shoot next time. Also if u have clear glasses & zoom in on your rear screen to check focus helps.

rodpark2 Loc: Dallas, Tx

I teach photography and one of the very first things I do is to show students how to set the diopter to their own eyes. I've hear 'Wow" many times because some have sever seen a sharp image in the view finder. It also helps in cases when the camera AF settings don't work on a particular scene and you need to manually focus. Having to manually touch up focus is common. AF is pretty dumb, usually just looking for contrast in a pre-determaned area of the screen.

Archboo3 Loc: Central Florida

All good advise above, but the one thing I didn't see listed it to purchase a Hoodman, My favorite tool. It is a piece that you place up to your eye and then against the screen on the back of the camera. It blocks out all the sun so you can get a clear view. But you will need to remove your glasses. I have progressive lens in my glasses an the Hoodman works great, you can also adjust the focus on the Hoodman just as you would on binoculars.

MW

Go back to the original location and repeat each shot with AF/MF set correctly. Not being a smart ass. But I’ve found that forcing myself to take the time to go back and do it right is a form of self education.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Yes. Avoid the, "Ready? FIRE!!! Uh, aim? WTF is aim?" syndrome. Seek some photographic knowledge first, then go test it, then read some more, test, repeat.

Read The *Fine* Manual and learn all the controls on your camera. Study a couple of books on digital photography, so you understand the basics of:

> Light — diffuse vs specular, color temperature, spectral characteristics of different sources...

> Light modification — reflecting, bouncing, diffusing, filtering...

> Exposure — Shutter, Aperture, ISO, and how they interact

> Metering — incident vs reflective, average, center-weighted, matrix, etc.

> Compensating for subject reflectivity — metering for accurate reproduction and adjusting for effect

> Exposure MODES — when to use manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, program, auto, intelligent auto, etc.

> White Balance strategies — the limits of Auto White Balance, appropriate use of Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Incandescent, Fluorescent, and Custom/Manual/Preset white balance modes

> White Balance Tools and color calibration schemes

> ICC profiles and their importance

> Composition schemes — many classic ways to place subjects in a frame

> The color wheel — how to manipulate (compose or contrast) colors in a scene for effect

> Using light direction, contrast, and blending hard and soft sources for effect

> Lenses and their effects — magnification, depth of field, choice for perspective control, etc.

> Other typical camera controls and their effects

You have a very capable camera. Getting the most from it requires an understanding of the ranges of control available to you. That takes time, patience, reading for comprehension, asking questions, and gaining experience deliberately testing each control to see what it does.

1Feathercrest Loc: NEPA

Ah for the days when a photographer took light readings, checked all (manual) camera settings, perspective, etc. A picture take with "auto" is only partially yours.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

GREAT story! Often, the weirdest things we do create completely unexpected issues. Finding the source of the problem can be challenging. That's something to watch for.

I use checklists for various types of work. I have one for copy stand photography, one for candids in an office/school environment, one for photographing small parts, one for video interviews, one for process videos, and several for working outdoors in various lighting conditions from full sun to twilight. They are starting points for me. They remind me to PAY ATTENTION to what I'm doing.

I think I need to go back and add, "Check autofocus settings on body and lenses" to a lot of them!

rook2c4 Loc: Philadelphia, PA USA

Everything? That wouldn't work for me. If I have only seconds to capture some action taking place in front of me, there's no way I can set up a tripod that fast!