Manual Mode and ISO setting (Page 6): Augie, I shoot manual 99% of the time. I set all three components of exposure, ISO, shutter, and aperture. I personally like to control all of the...

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Augie, I shoot manual 99% of the time. I set all three components of exposure, ISO, shutter, and aperture. I personally like to control all of the aspects of exposure and avoid 'auto' anything.

My decision on ISO setting is either 100 for tripod assisted exposures, ISO 400 for handheld, higher ISO if working in dim light. Then it's a matter of experience which determines the minimum higher ISO I'll use.
--Bob

augieg27 wrote:

I have searched, read and looked (including this forum) for an answer to this question:
In manual mode you control the settings and don't allow the camera to do it, OK, but if after you set the shutter speed and aperture and have the right exposure, how about the ISO?
Do you also set the ISO or use auto ISO?

Perhaps this question have addressed and I missed it.

Thank you for your assistance.

Augie

bleirer

TriX wrote:

Well, if the argument is that measuring light with your eye is more accurate than a CORRECTLY used meter, I’m not buying that, but if the argument is that skill and judgement are important in learning to use the meter correctly, then I’m all in. No argument about not blowing highlights, but one way to do that (and use the full DR of the sensor) is to correctly meter them.

I think from an artistic point of view its good to have one's eyes tuned to an awareness of the light falling on the scene and how much is reflecting back in different areas, and how the shadows are lit vs. the part in the sun. But the histogram, and exposure simulation, and the evaluative meter and the spot meter, and the zone system give good info too, and I'm happy I have them in the toolbox when I have time to think about it.

pahtspix

Thanks to Steve Perry who also posted today, I've been shooting in Manual mode with ISO Auto engaged since I acquired my Nikon D500/Tamron 150-600mm G2 in November of 2016. It's been a GREAT game changer along with Back-button focusing ( also learned from Steve!) in continuous mode. I have generally set a ceiling of ISO 4000, and set the aperture to a do-able f7.1 to start, and adjust as needed for the highest shutterspeed for the conditions of the lighting. However, I'm not afraid to set the ISO higher if the situation warrants, or conversly go to F 8 or so for more depth of field. All of the above requires checking my histograms occasionally for over or under exposure, and adjusting accordingly!!

bleirer

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Leinik Loc: Rochester NY

Not that simple. The camera makes choices according on an algorithm (program) defined by studies of the "average" photographers' practices. Your lowest usable shutter speed may not be mine. The algorithm is also informed by the camera and will know (if lens and camera "communicate") which lens you are using and will modify the lowest shutter speed (or ISO) accordingly avoiding potential motion blur. In other words at some point using anything auto you relinquish your choices (and often creativity) to the designers of the program in your camera. Fully manual you make all the choices... your choice ;o) It all depends on the level of practice or mastery of the tools... so no straightforward answer except personal (for the above-mentioned reasons).

LWW Loc: Banana Republic of America

selmslie wrote:

So if the camera's meter suggests the wrong exposure it's the photographer's fault? I'm certainly not buying that!

It’s a matter of experience, no offense.

Those who learned before modern built in metering systems learned to eyeball within one stop or less ... or burned through a lot of film trying to find keepers.

Today’s matrix and spot meters are incredibly accurate.

Similar accuracy could be had with a hand meter, but took time.

My first real camera was a NIKON F with a pentaprism finder ... a beautiful machine with no built in meter at all.

tcthome Loc: NJ

Linda From Maine wrote:

Another user's testimonial re auto ISO - with phot... (show quote)

I always shoot in manual mode. The only time I use auto ISO is for wildlife in fast changing light situations ( like birds flying in & out of tree cover ). I will say that when I first tried auto ISO I was supprised how high the ISO will go. I put a ISO limit of 3200 on my camera (Nikon D810).

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

augieg27 wrote:

I have searched, read and looked (including this forum) for an answer to this question:
In manual mode you control the settings and don't allow the camera to do it, OK, but if after you set the shutter speed and aperture and have the right exposure, how about the ISO?
Do you also set the ISO or use auto ISO?

Perhaps this question have addressed and I missed it.

Thank you for your assistance.

Augie

No matter what mode the camera is set to I have always used manual ISO depending upon the circumstances at hand. If I am in bright sunshine it is set to ISO 200. If I am indoors and will need a higher shutter speed then I might set it to ISO 800. Since I started using digital cameras this method has worked well for ME.

Dennis

LWW Loc: Banana Republic of America

Leinik wrote:

Not that simple. The camera makes choices accordin... (show quote)

The difference between your lowest usable shutter speed and mine has no relevance when AUTO ISO is in use.

Charlie157 Loc: San Diego, CA

Linda From Maine wrote:

Another user's testimonial re auto ISO - with phot... (show quote)

Good idea, must try it. I've been playing with that problem and did not think about floating the iso, which my camera can do.

BTW love the cow/fog photos.

Leinik Loc: Rochester NY

bleirer wrote:

That can be fraught with danger, because ISO, even... (show quote)

Again in the general vocabulary of photography, exposure is different from quantity of light hitting the sensor : if either of the three components between ISO, shutter speed and aperture is modified then the results (exposure) will be different (under or over). So exposure is the result of the combined choices of these three elements. As for as many photon as possible... that will lead to OVERexposure if too many photons hit the sensor. High ISO does not lead to under-exposure, the unaware photographer does.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

selmslie wrote:

.....I don't "measure" light with my eyes. But I can tell if the sun is shining and there are no clouds between it and the subject.

I can also recognize several stages of cloudy from hazy sunlight (soft shadows) through heavy overcast (no shadows)"......

I'm glad you haven't recommended that approach to the OP (and hopefully not to anybody else in the early stages of learning). If memory serves there are three stops between bright sunshine and heavy overcast, and a further stop between that and deep shade. That's a lot of room for making skewed estimations. You claim that you can do it and I'll believe you, but human vision being what it is, any such guesswork is going to be error-prone, even for an experienced shooter, and an untrained eye will be even more vulnerable. But that's exactly the sort of guesswork that has to be used if you move beyond using the fixed ratios of Sunny 16 (the ratios are fixed whether you use f/11 or whatever).

bleirer

Leinik wrote:

Strictly speaking a good exposure is the right amo... (show quote)

Some think ISO camera settings will soon be obsolete, as more cameras are ISO invariant. Capturing photons, turning them into electricity, and turning the electricity into a number is the important part. Where in the chain the camera adds in the iso gain makes a difference. If it is before the conversion to a number it can be good.

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

BebuLamar wrote:

If cameras are ISO invariance then you should keep your ISO low and not letting it float. You would underexpose many of the shots but with ISO invariance you can fix that in post. If you over expose you can't fix that in post even if you have ISO Invariance.

I do not have problems with my exposures (I've been doing photography a very long time)..... I have several Nikons, they are ISO Invariant (up to a point) D7xxx series. In low light situations the float allows me to get shots I might not due to low ISO. I do not see a limited float as an issue/problem. When I'm on the move, dealing with terrain, trying not to trip and fall, it is another tool to allow me more flexibility. BTW, sometimes I lock the ISO at 100 or 200. but not every time, does not suit my purpose.

tcthome Loc: NJ

rook2c4 wrote:

True. But with a fixed ISO, there are no surprises. I know exactly where it's going to be, and I can fully concentrate on the other exposure-related settings.

This is true with non changing light or time to make changes, eg. sunrise/sunset pics.