Gene51 wrote:
I am not a fan of camera mounted lighting ever. It... (
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Exactly! there have been many suggestions regarding lighting equipment but very little about LIGHTING TECHNIQUE.
On camera lighting, flash or LED will usually produce FLAT lighting because the light source is striking the subject from the same angle as the lens so that DIRECTION of light does not yield light and shadow so there is a lack of modeling, texture, and dimensionality. A RING LIGHT is even FLATTER because the light source is coaxial to the lens.
Flat light, however, has a function as a FILL LIGHT source which is used in conjunction with a directional natural light source (sunlight, diffused daylight, hazy skylight, open shade, etc.) or another off-camera light
The Speedlight or LED source where the off-camera light becomes the main light that produces modeling. The flat of fill lig is set a weaker output so it does not overpower the main source.
Modifying the lig with commercially available or improvised accessories is to soften, spread, or diffuse the light but will not necessarily change the DIRECTION of the light unless it is bounced for an off-camera surface.
The ring light was originally designed for a special light technique where shadows would be detrimental to the image. Coaxial light is needed for photography subjects lie printed circuit boards, surgical fields, intraoral (dentistry) photography and certain kids of forensic or evidence photography where shadows cast from one component or detail in the subject would obscure important details. There are specialized ring lights with multiple flash tubes whereby half the tunes can be shut off enabling better modeling fr a coaxial source.
If you are shoot flower out-of-doors, in a greenhouse, or with window lighting, fill light can be supplied by an on-camera Speedlight or a simple reflector to serve as a fill source. If you are working indoors and are depending on your flash or LED system to supply adequate light for exposure and good aesthetics, a 2-light system is recommended. If you need the system to be attached to the camera, there are some specialized units with 2 heads.
To achieve good modeling, texture, and dimensionality, the main direction of light, whatever source is used, should be anywhere from 20 to 135 degrees off the camera/subject axis- this would be difficult to achieve with the mounted atop the camera. Funny thing is, even that complex "system" with all those light shown in another post pretty much all FLAT lighting. Quantity does not necessarily yield quality.
Before investing in any gear do a little experiment. Take a flower out in the sunlight in the morning or late in the afternoon and move it around so that the sunlight strikes it from various angles and observe the effect. Sometimes the lig for the back will transilluminate leaves and petals. A slightly flatter angle will illuminate the insides of flowers. When you get the FEELING of the light you will be able to replicate the effect with flash or LED lights. In natural light, a simple reflector made of cardboard and aluminum foil can yield excellent results.