Suppressing reflections on shiny black subjects.
Nov 24, 2019 21:18:47 #
Any suggestions in bringing out details and suppressing the reflections from a shiny black object like this spider's body would be appreciated. After several hours trying polarizing filters, positioning light sources and diffusing them through sheets of paper this is the best result I managed to get. I do a lot of entomology macro work for a blog hosted by our local paper The North Coast Journal, and I always find these really challenging (frustrating). The red haze near her head is actually reflection from my little Olympus TG-6 Tough camera. This is an 8 layer focus stack done in camera. ISO 1600, 1/13 th second, Aperture 6.3, Focal length 16.8. I tried my Sony A7 mk II (90 mm macro lens), and Canon 6D (MPE 65 mm lens) with less than stellar results. The subject is alive so running the whole thing through a stack rail is a non-starter.
The image is taken through Saran Wrap which is crystal clear thin, can be stretched flat and smooth, and tough enough to protect me from venomous arthropods, a technique I developed for imaging the jaws of centipedes etc.
The image is taken through Saran Wrap which is crystal clear thin, can be stretched flat and smooth, and tough enough to protect me from venomous arthropods, a technique I developed for imaging the jaws of centipedes etc.
Nov 24, 2019 21:59:50 #
Nov 24, 2019 22:11:18 #
Nov 24, 2019 22:44:34 #
No picture. What you are describing is an exceptionally difficult subject, and it can be tough. I have been there. Polarizing filters might help, but the best macrophotographers in the world who produced wonderful images of shiny insects and spiders without blown out highlights don't use them. So perhaps polarizing filters fall short. Its worth keeping in mind, though, i suppose.
On principle the better diffusers are thin layers of foam. The fibers of paper are opaque, while plastic foam material is not opaque and so more light is scattered rather than blocked. You can get the material at office supply stores. Here is what i have in mind: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/843750/Office-Depot-Brand-Micro-Foam-Packing/ Another source is the thin packing foam that electronics are often wrapped in.
I could find pictures of diffusers for you, but you can do the same thing by simply doing a Google image search for 'camera diffuser'.
Another option is a soft box, with the flash (or flashes) on the outside. The whole trick is to wrap light around the subject, and soft boxes do that like nothing else. This might be the shortest path to your picture.
Finally, I want to emphasize that no spider is going to go after you. They don't do that. They have a brain smaller than a grain of sand, and they can barely see. Further, they are not mean or angry, or vindictive. Just let them settle into whatever staging area you want, and move your camera to them. Here are two pictures of mine. I had nothing to worry about.
1. Taken in a soft box. i am sticking my face and camera into the space. I was completely ignored.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/87421607@N04/35314445866/in/album-72157661940875135/
2. This little lady was under tree bark. I am holding the bark in my left hand, and the camera in my right. My thumb is about 1/2" out of the frame. Again, nothing happened.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/87421607@N04/48733459418/in/dateposted-public/
On principle the better diffusers are thin layers of foam. The fibers of paper are opaque, while plastic foam material is not opaque and so more light is scattered rather than blocked. You can get the material at office supply stores. Here is what i have in mind: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/843750/Office-Depot-Brand-Micro-Foam-Packing/ Another source is the thin packing foam that electronics are often wrapped in.
I could find pictures of diffusers for you, but you can do the same thing by simply doing a Google image search for 'camera diffuser'.
Another option is a soft box, with the flash (or flashes) on the outside. The whole trick is to wrap light around the subject, and soft boxes do that like nothing else. This might be the shortest path to your picture.
Finally, I want to emphasize that no spider is going to go after you. They don't do that. They have a brain smaller than a grain of sand, and they can barely see. Further, they are not mean or angry, or vindictive. Just let them settle into whatever staging area you want, and move your camera to them. Here are two pictures of mine. I had nothing to worry about.
1. Taken in a soft box. i am sticking my face and camera into the space. I was completely ignored.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/87421607@N04/35314445866/in/album-72157661940875135/
2. This little lady was under tree bark. I am holding the bark in my left hand, and the camera in my right. My thumb is about 1/2" out of the frame. Again, nothing happened.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/87421607@N04/48733459418/in/dateposted-public/
Nov 25, 2019 00:00:21 #
SuperflyTNT wrote:
Oops!Yep, no pic.
Turned out a little better with post processing increasing clarity and a smidge of contrast.
Nov 25, 2019 00:02:47 #
In my article for the NCJ I pointed out that they're not aggressive and would rather not expend metabolicly expensive venom on us. It is counter to their best interests unless in dire distress.
Nov 25, 2019 05:50:58 #
Am I right in thinking that focus stacking involves multiple exposures? If you can do that then exposure bracketing is a possibility.
Alternatively you could use a small aperture to give increased DOF, deliberately under-expose to keep the highlights down, use relatively high ISOs to keep the shutter speed up, use fast, continuous shutter release to get multiple exposures, blend them in PP to cancel any noise due to the high ISOs and brighten the resulting image (no ISO noise to worry about). I'm only just starting to look into the blending technique, but from what I've seen on-line, 8 or 9 exposures is typically enough to virtually eliminate ISO noise.
All of the above depends on the subject staying still long enough to get the multiple exposures. The more restless critters wouldn't be suitable subjects for the multiple exposure technique.
Alternatively you could use a small aperture to give increased DOF, deliberately under-expose to keep the highlights down, use relatively high ISOs to keep the shutter speed up, use fast, continuous shutter release to get multiple exposures, blend them in PP to cancel any noise due to the high ISOs and brighten the resulting image (no ISO noise to worry about). I'm only just starting to look into the blending technique, but from what I've seen on-line, 8 or 9 exposures is typically enough to virtually eliminate ISO noise.
All of the above depends on the subject staying still long enough to get the multiple exposures. The more restless critters wouldn't be suitable subjects for the multiple exposure technique.
Nov 26, 2019 07:15:34 #
First, are you shooting this in RAW, and if so what are you using to post process? Seems to me much of the highlights can be eliminated in post work if you have a RAW image file by turning down the "highlights" in Photoshop. I show my students this pretty regularly.
Nov 26, 2019 12:18:52 #
The focus stacking is done in camera which in this model precludes raw acquisition.
Dec 3, 2019 15:34:36 #
Dec 18, 2019 12:28:06 #
Jan 2, 2020 14:34:46 #
flyboy61
Loc: The Great American Desert
You did well.
My first attempt at some sort of orb Weaver Spider was a total flop! I had a short tele lens, and for some reason, the spiders, although at at remote site, were skittish, and I could not get close...If I even LOOKED at them, they would head for dark corners!
I had a housemate at college who raised Black Widows in his room! Creepy guy!
My first attempt at some sort of orb Weaver Spider was a total flop! I had a short tele lens, and for some reason, the spiders, although at at remote site, were skittish, and I could not get close...If I even LOOKED at them, they would head for dark corners!
I had a housemate at college who raised Black Widows in his room! Creepy guy!
Mar 17, 2020 16:17:48 #
Some of those reflections are necessary, otherwise the spider would just look like a big black blob. They help define shape and contour. You can use Adobe RAW and bring the highlights down a bit and maybe bump up the dehaze a bit.
Mar 17, 2020 16:22:09 #
flyboy61 wrote:
You did well.
My first attempt at some sort of orb Weaver Spider was a total flop! I had a short tele lens, and for some reason, the spiders, although at at remote site, were skittish, and I could not get close...If I even LOOKED at them, they would head for dark corners!
I had a housemate at college who raised Black Widows in his room! Creepy guy!
My first attempt at some sort of orb Weaver Spider was a total flop! I had a short tele lens, and for some reason, the spiders, although at at remote site, were skittish, and I could not get close...If I even LOOKED at them, they would head for dark corners!
I had a housemate at college who raised Black Widows in his room! Creepy guy!
I honestly don't know why so many people get so creeped out by spiders. I think they are some of the most amazing little creatures on the planet. An animal who has rather poor eyesight (except Jumping Spiders which have outstanding eyesight) and yet can still snatch prey and make a nearly perfect web in low light or darkness is something to be marveled. I don't find raising black widows creepy, perhaps somewhat hazardous. They are amazing and beautiful creatures! Now maybe if he was raising Brown Recluse, that might be a little on the creepy side.
Mar 21, 2020 11:56:47 #
I've had great luck with a vinyl "table cloth", used for picnic tables, really cheap at Dollar General, etc. and a cheap embroidery hoop, same source. It's kind of overkill with the amount, but can be used for other things around the "studio".
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