wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

Dennis, you are correct that is the most prevalent way it is done. But it truly is not the only way it can be done. I actually have been faced with situations with lens hood that this would be the slow way to get the job done when one needs to be fast. I will have to use the technique I described earlier with my new 300mm lens. The lens hood is not detachable. This means that I will have to pull back the lens hood, rotate the polarizer using the viewfinder, and then put the hood back into position - and possibly or probably have missed the shot. It becomes easier to pull back the lens hood, rotate the filter exactly 90°, put the hood back, and start shooting again. If one moves the filter exactly 90°, one does not need to adjust for the filter using the viewfinder, thus saving both time and effort. I actually have a filter where the manufacture placed small etched white dots on their polarizer at 90° from each other just for this purpose. And it works reasonable well. It doesn't sound like the OP's filter has that kind of markings. Hence my suggestion of marking the filter with dots at 90°, or just two at 180°, for reference points.

Boone Loc: Groundhog Town USA

Ditto!!!!!!!!!!!

Boone Loc: Groundhog Town USA

Ditto!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

woodyH

Let's see: you could switch to Pentax which has a slot cut in the hood for adjusting the filter; do the dremel; use an overly wide rubber lens hood— mine is threaded on both the front and back so I can mount the filter inside the hood, not behind it, affording less vignetting at the extreme WA (being rubber, the hood can be squeezed back and not vignette); or take pride in your having mastered one of the skills of being a photographer. A dot of white dope on the front edge of the filter ring at the orientation mark also makes it easier to adjust the filter, particularly with electronic viewfinder cameras that don't succumb to darkening as much as the optical viewfinders.

BigDogGuy

I have two CPL by different manufacturer and one included a guide that states to take the hood off when shooting with the CPL. I seem to recall reading that advise in photography instructional articles as well.

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

Believe me I am not trying to be argumentative. I suggested the method that has worked for me over the years. A couple of others have posted likewise. I pretty much only use a polarizing filter for landscape photos where I take the time to set them up. I have never taken a quick photo using a polarizing filter.

If your method works for you then who am I to go against something that works? I wish you well.

Dennis

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

That's because CPL works at 90 degrees and at 90° you're not going to get lens flare, and very llittle below that as long as the CPL is working.

sandyegg Loc: San Francisco Bay Area

Thanks for your thoughtful comment. Tell me, did getting someone to rotate your clf work for you?
You know, getting a response to a question from an a..h... like you is a reason I'm sometimes reluctant to post a question on this forum. If you're unwilling to say something constructive, you can just ignore to question. Or, if you feel compelled to offer up some sarcastic, poor attempt to demonstrate how funny you are, you can shove your camera lens up somewhere where the sun doesn't shine and an ISO of 6400 won't help. (Sorry if that constructive comment wasn't funny.)

sandyegg Loc: San Francisco Bay Area

Thanks to all who offered constructive comments. It looks like when shooting casually (sans tripod) while out and about without the lens hood on (shading the lens with my hand if necessary), and etching marks on the outer ring of the circular polarizing filter is going to be the way to go. May also see if one of those collapsible rubber hoods might work.
Again, thanks for your input!

worldcycle Loc: Stateline, Nevada

Take off the lens hood.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Get a ROUND shallow wide angle metal hood to screw into the CPL and turn to adjust - make sure you have a CPL with female threads - otherwise you can drill a hole in the OEM plastic hood and use a Dremmel tool to form a slot to poke a finger through to adjust CPL. This slot should be positioned in the lower left corner of the hood as seen from the shooting position.
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wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

No argument, Dennis. I have used the small post on the front element of the polarizer, I have used the polarizers without a post and no lens hood, I have used the rubber collapsible, solid rubber, and metal lens hoods attached to the front polarizer element to move the element, I have used sneaking my finger past the lens hood to the edge of the filter, I have put my finger through the manufacturer's pre-made hole in the lens hood to the filter edge, and I have used the dots on the front polarizer element - there might even be another way that I tried to use that I have forgotten about. Like you have said, most of the time most of us, myself included, do not take a "quick" photo while using a polarizing filter. The normal way for me is to take off the hood, view the changes in the viewfinder, put the lens hood back on, and shoot. Not the fastest way. But in this world, things change. With my new lens, I have placed myself in the same situation as the OP. I will not have to do it often, but I know there will be some wildlife shots that I will be using a polarizer and will need to quickly change from horizontal to vertical and vice versa. I am thankful for the OP's question because I am going to be faced with the same problem as the OP at some point in time. I will probably be putting locating dots on my new filter for my new lens, if it doesn't already have them, once I buy the filter. It will provide me the quickest reorientation of both the sensor position and filter position. Since I have done it before, I will know how to do it again.