R.G. wrote:
One of the reasons for shooting in manual mode is that you're not at the mercy of what the camera decides is appropriate. Shooting jpeg is fine until....
The cameras are very clever when it comes to editing a raw file into a jpeg. However, cameras aren't perfect, they haven't the slightest idea what your intentions for the shot are and they are clueless when it comes to optimising photos taken in unusual circumstances. In other words raw gives the shooter/editor more control over the final result, just as manual control gives the shooter more control over the capture.
Whether that's an advantage or not depends on whether the shooter/editor knows how to take proper advantage of, and make proper use of, that extra control. But there's no denying the potential advantages of shooting raw in manual mode.
One of the reasons for shooting in manual mode is ... (
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The camera does not decide.
THE USER decides whether to manipulate the image by setting the menus before exposure! There are many controls:
Hue
Saturation
White Balance
Contrast
Sharpness
Dynamic Range Compensation
...just to name a few.
But the user decides whether to learn how they work and when to use them. That takes testing discipline and observational skill and (as with anything else) TIME.
Raw is for rookies. I mean that kindly! It gives you everything the sensor captured and that the analog-to-digital converter recorded in the file. It also gives you a sample JPEG of what the camera menus and exposure led to. And, it gives you the EXIF metadata — details about what happened. So if you screwed up the JPEG processing or exposure, there’s a fighting chance to get acceptable results from the raw file.
This is critical, because you can decide when you can and perhaps should use a JPEG workflow, and when you can and perhaps should use a raw capture/post-processing workflow.
Various white balance tools are available to help you achieve perfect exposure and near-perfect white balance in JPEGs. B&H and Adorama stock dozens of them. Most of them work well as raw reference tools for "click balance," as well as JPEG capture.
When you're photographing a scene with a brightness range of around 5–6 stops or less, JPEGs are going to contain all of that, if you expose the scene correctly and the menu settings make sense for the subject. Furthermore, you can put almost all of that detail on chromogenic photographic or inkjet papers.
It's when the scene EXCEEDS six stops, or when you can't stop to take a reading or do a custom white balance that raw capture shines. Even when the light fools the meter, a raw file will probably retain enough information to make a decent print or web image.
Outdoors in bright daylight, the brightness range can exceed the camera sensor's total dynamic range. That's when even a single raw capture can't get all the details, so "high dynamic range" or HDR techniques are useful (alas, for still life subjects only, generally). HDR uses several different exposures and extracts a wider range of brightness from them, compressing the tonal range in the final result. It can be hokey if over-done, but if practiced with restraint, yields masterful images. Then there are techniques such as ETTR and EBTR and uni-white balance... Advanced users will take care to apply them when needed to make a masterpiece.
Wedding photographers will use raw capture because they're working in unpredictable and fast-changing lighting conditions, with subjects that have deep shadow details and bright highlight details that they need to control. They can't interrupt the flow to change menu settings or tweak exposure. So raw is their friend!
But if you're making 1000 photos of small parts for an automotive catalog (bulbs, screws, nuts, bolts, etc.), there is NO point AT ALL to capturing the images in raw files. Such work is done in a studio, using a light tent and strobes or photo-grade LEDs or CFLs. The photographer controls the brightness range for the printer, and creates near-perfect JPEGs with no post-processing.
When making 430 school portraits a day, chances are, the lighting never, ever changes, and the photographer can lock down the settings and "rip the knobs off." In fact, that entire "mass portrait" industry uses an all-JPEG workflow (with an occasional batch of PNGs thrown in for automated background replacement).
So... Rather than JPEG VERSUS RAW, it's probably a better long term idea to think, JPEG AND RAW. Use the right tool for the job. Don't drive screws with a hammer!