Loudbri wrote:
thanks Dinah, I only have the small programs that came with the camera d5m2.. So post processing is my weakness. I send my stuff for clients to a pro retoucher...I still have the old school mentality where I want to get the pic to be right on film. Which is not to be arrogant, but because I honestly don't know how to fix it afterward.
Thank you for your effort
Download Picasa, it is FREE and a good place to start with the post processing. Then PaintShop Pro is an inexpensive alternative to PhotoShop/CS6, etc.
Loudbri wrote:
yes I am learning but I still hold onto the notion of
"I have this wildly sophisticated little machine in my hand, I should be able to do this"
I have friends who stick to the same "old school" attitude that you have. Here is the problem: unless you are shooting with a high end camera all digital cameras produce a tint to one degree or another on the finished photo. Generally it is a blue tint and sometimes barley visible but still there. Most have some problems with getting the contrast correct.
The guy, gal or team that created your lens has no idea of exactly how you see the world and therefore the cameran can never capture exactly what you see. Therefore it is no shame to use a program like Photoshop to tidy up the image.
Chinaman
Loc: Adelaide, South Australia, Australia
unclebe1 wrote:
Bryan Peterson at Adorama recently showed how to do a similar shot using flash. He metered the sky (in his case it was a stormy sky) at 1/250 sec. Let's say it gave him an f stop of 16. Then he set his flash for f 16 and its readout showed him that the flash was effective from 12 to 20 ft at that f stop. He moved his 'object' (in his case it was flowers) into that range and then shot the scene with the flash at 1/250 f16. Relatively straightforward.
I'll love to see him move this gazebo into the correct range!
Chinaman wrote:
I'll love to see him move this gazebo into the correct range!
No problema, mi amigo. You do the Texas two step (put one foot in front of the other)!! :lol:
Bmac
Loc: Long Island, NY
Loudbri wrote:
nope Bucks county PA
Okay, thanks. I was far off, but I have explored Buck's County so maybe that's why it looks familiar. 8-)
Thought I would take a shot at this one. Just a little HRD to bring out a few elements. Overall short was a little out of focus, I left it that way.
Stay true to yourself and remember there are plenty of tools out there to help and not all of them do you need a masters degree to learn and then use, lots of them are clicking a button or two then going into interface and then tweaking. At least they give you a starting point to play with.
Tomi G
Loudbri wrote:
yes I am learning but I still hold onto the notion of
"I have this wildly sophisticated little machine in my hand, I should be able to do this"
you do. However the sophisticated machine you really need to figure out is the brain/eye combination.
Looking at your image and reading your question leaves me confused
is the subject the gazebo or is the subject the sky?
If you meter for the sky your gazebo will go dark if you meter for gazebo the sky will blow out......... If you use ND filters your gonna have to erase the line which will cut right across your gazebo and probably not be an easy task to do.
The sun is pretty much directly overhead and you have cloudy skies so you can't really use a polarizer......nope I think maybe figure out what your subject is then ask how.
On a tripod, remove any filter, manually focus on the gazebo, take a series of exposures at f16 (the small F stop may turn the sun into a "sun-star" ). Take about 8 shots, varying the shutter speed each shot by 1 stop to cover the dynamic range of the light.
Next, convert all the RAW exposures to TIFF without making any post processing changes except the conversion; then, merge the photos together using an HDR program such as the one in PS6 and/or Photomatix.
Finish the final one photo's adjustments in PS6 or Lightroom, etc.
Racmanaz wrote:
I would use a polarizer filter and the meter the grass then hold the exposure lock, then recompose. That or you could use a graduated filter :)
When I read your post and saw you images, a CPL and graduated ND used together would have given you the results you are looking for.
chapjohn wrote:
Racmanaz wrote:
I would use a polarizer filter and the meter the grass then hold the exposure lock, then recompose. That or you could use a graduated filter :)
When I read your post and saw you images, a CPL and graduated ND used together would have given you the results you are looking for.
what are the results he's looking for?
ALYN
Loc: Lebanon, Indiana
Get picasa on your computer; it's great for training. Alyn
thank you everyone for your input and effort. thank you tomi G for your time spent of the pic..... I guess the subject is the gazebo. But my goal is to get the pic to look the same as it looks to my eye. when I was laying on the ground looking at the landscape I saw a well lit gazebo with a bright blue sky whispy clouds and the sun. So I took a bunch of frames trying to duplicate that, and never got it. Now with all this info I can't wait to try again.
Just practicing my skills. Sometimes it is just easier to use PP.
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