tgreenhaw

When shooting portraits with an 85mm lens what f stop do you like to use? I'm looking for nice bokeh but also with sharpness on subjects. Here is a shot of my wife and new granddaughter. I would have liked my granddaughter to be sharper... This was shot at f1.8 and I think 2.8 might have done better but at the expense of a nicer background.

Is there a good rule of thumb?

Should I consider focus stacking and if so, whats a good method?

(Download)

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

It would seem this image has been processed already? Note the edits on the eyes, including an adjustment to the iris of her left eye, even though the left eye (nearer the camera) is mostly closed to the view of the camera. The work around / below the chin also seems to need better blending. The lighting and colors are very pleasing. Hopefully, you can adjust some of the technical set-up to achieve the desired result.

It would seem a better focus on the subjects is needed. The shutter at 1/30 seems too slow to assure a sharp image, simply to use a faster shutter be eliminate possible movement by the subjects. For a black sweater, consider also cloning away lint and hair, such as on her right shoulder where the focus appears sharper overall.

The focus seems misplaced on the woman's right eye, further from the camera. Regarding your question, a smaller aperture will help achieve a better DOF. You have 1/3 stops to work with, such as f/2, f/2.2, and f/2.4, as well as 1/3-stops beyond f/2.8. As you close the aperture slightly, just have the subjects stand further away from the background tree to achieve / maintain the out of focus background. If you maintain this view, consider setting a specific focus point on the left eyebrow rather than the eye where the camera may select the glasses surface rather than the eye. The wide apertures make for a very slim DOF and selecting the AF point becomes critical to the results. To get both the woman's face and child, f/1.8 is too wide an aperture / too narrow a DOF to capture both in sharp focus. A DOF calculation app will provide specific measurements for camera to subject based on the selected aperture and focal length.

Boone Loc: Groundhog Town USA

As a portrait photographer I think there are two schools of thought here. (IMO)

First...what is the true focal subject that "YOU WANT" here? You could make the new addition as the center of attention, and thus focus accordingly.

Second...you might make them both the center of attention, and focus accordingly. In this case I (just in MO) you might use f8 or higher and not be concerned about the background. Or, use this f-stop and shoot at a higher focal length, (IE: like 200mm +)

There are several different ways to look at this shot. But you are the one telling the story of the moment...so...it is your call in the final image.

To directly answer your question: I would have used f8 or higher, and used a focal length of 200mm +

Just a thought!
Thanks, Boone.

tgreenhaw

Thanks for sharing the tips. the only post processing was running the image through Topaz Portrait Pro (I only spent a couple of minutes on this one). My wife is a huge fan of the Topaz filter :-)

tgreenhaw

Excellent point - I was most interested in my wife's expression so that's what I focused on. Hadn't thought about it rationally though, just worked on instinct.

Until I get more experience with my new 85mm lens, I think I may start bracketing aperture. I wouldn't have thought to go all the way to f8 so I'll give it a try.

Before I had the 85mm lens, I would have used my 100-400mm lens, but f4.5 to 5.6 created different challenges in closer quarters indoors.

CO

Lenses generally benefit from stopping down the aperture a couple of stops from the maximum aperture. Try taking some shots with the aperture in the f/2.8 and f/4 range. Also, check for front or back focusing issues. It's possible that your camera and lens are not well matched up and the combination is back or front focusing. Do you know exactly where the focus point(s) landed? There are plug-ins that will show the focus points.

tgreenhaw

The Canon 85mm 1.4 IS lens should give me 4 stops if image stabilization so I thought I could get away with 1/30 with stationary subjects. Most of the shots I took on this session were at 1/60 and since I was using flash for fill I could have gone faster. I went slower because I wanted a greater proportion of available light for a more natural look.

tgreenhaw

Good points. It's a new lens and I haven't checked focus yet. Whenever I get a new lens I always do some test shots on a test target. This was shot with a Canon 5Ds and an 85mm 1.4 IS L lens. I have never had to dial in an L lens on this camera (yet).

CO

There's a good test that is described on the Photography Life website. You take photos with the camera both in live view mode and some using the viewfinder. Compare them side by side. There are no focusing errors when the camera is in live view mode because the camera is using its contrast detection autofocus. It adjusts the focus until it achieves the highest contrast at the sensor. When using the viewfinder, the camera is using its phase detection autofocus. Phase detection autofocus is error prone.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Firstly, you can easily determine the deep or shallow depth of field by previewed the image prior to exposing. In may portrait situations, there is enough time to shoot, chimp, magnify and verify and once you have established what effect you want, you can just continue shooting.

A lens between 50mm and 105mm, depending on your camera's format should not be difficult to manage in terms of depth of field control.

Here are a few tradition ideas to consider. In a portrait of a single individual, one time-honored method is to focus on the eyes. If the DOP is extremely shallow as an f/1.2 lens may provide, even if the subject's ears are out of focus, the image can still be very effective. If the eyes are too soft, that is usually detrimental to viewer impact. You can keep the subject's entire head and should in focus and intentionally blur the background via shallow DOP. DOP is also variable as to the camera/subject distance AND the aperture. This is where experimentation and practice are required to get the feel of your lens at various f/stops and distances. Once to get the feel of your lens and camera combination, you can easily predict results at various apertures and distances and verify them intermittently as you shoot.

The actual"shape", nature and style of "bokeh" also varies depending on the structure of the aperture blades AND the prevailing light- or more specifically highlights in the background.

In a group of two persons, depth of field wise, you have various options. If the subjects are equidistant from the camera you can have both of them in sharp focus. If one subject is behind the other you can focus on the near subject and have the further subject either "sentimentally soft", or the further subject very soft, or both subjects sharp- this depending on the effect you want and the story or mood you want to express. USUALLY, if the foreground subject is sharp, the viewer's eye will accept a soft subject in the further subject or the background as opposed to the reverse situation. Out of focus objects in the foreground can provide interesting framing but usually not out of focus persons. These are no carved in stone rules but I suggest that you try these scenarios out and see how they work for you.

If you have a full-frame body a 105mm f/2 or f/2.8 will work well in many variables. as you stop down, of course, the DOP will increase You will have different results in tight head-shots, head, and shoulders, 3/4 n and full-length portraits. Results will also vary with painted or detailed studio backgrounds, natural backgrounds and actual light sources (like Christmas lights) in the background and of course the distance between the subject and the background.

There isn't one aperture, distance, focal length and background type that will always yield uniform results. If you have a good zoom lens, you can try all the variables and lean the best combinations for any given set of coordinates. Obviously, if you want EXTREMELY selective focus, a very fast lens, perhaps f/1.2 might work for you- it really depends on the style you are looking for.

It is true that many lenses perform best about 2 stops down form ten maximum aperture, however, in portraiture, oftentimes, razor sharpness is not necessary and good lenses do not exactly turn in to the bottom of a shot glass at full aperture. Again, if you have such a lens, experimentation will help you determine the performance and whether or not it is acceptable.

Perspective is dependent on camera/subject distance. You also want to select a focal length that provides a practical and comfortable working distance whereby you can preserve perspective, communicate and direct the subject and accommodate the working space in a studio situation or in confined quarters at an indoor location.

I hope this helps- good luck!

tgreenhaw

Great advice, thanks!

User ID

Usually f4.5, to make sure the whole face and
especially BOTH eyes are in focus. 85 and 105
lenses don't have much DoF from f/3.5 to fully
open so I find the wider range of stops useless.

Background focus depends on distance, so if
you can't get the distance for the background
available, you'll just hafta keep an eye on how
the background interacts with the subject.

jerseymike

I am brand new to using a DSLR and can offer no advise on what ever camera or lighting should be. I think it used to be easier.
My comments would be your wife seems to have a concerned look on her face. To me a happy expression would be better. Lastly would a cell phone be a lot easier to use??
I say that with "tongue in cheek".

raymondh Loc: Walker, MI

My compliments to Mr Shapiro for investing the time for this insightful & comprehensive response. Good people on UHH!!

OllieFCR

Difficult to do focus stacking on subjects that move as the alignment of them will be off.