GoofyNewfie wrote:
Yep.
That’s what happens when you’re too close and why the recommended portrait lens length is twice that if the “normal” lens for a given camera. With yours, normal is about 35mm, so a 75 (or 85) would be ideal. The long end of your zoom would have been better.
The lens Canon sells as a portrait lens for that series is the 60mm prime (which is also macro)--much finer than the kit lenses, but not the L series. I have one and find it very useful for many things. (It is sharp--not a portrait lens in the soft focus sense.)
Of course, the perspective issue is due to distance, not focal length--ideal portrait distance (classical) is 8 ft, regardless of lens or format. If you get too close (perhaps with a wide angle lens), proportions seem wrong, such as too big a nose, or bending if the sensor is at an angle. For a group, however, a wider lens has no distortion if you stay 8 ft. You alter the subject's face by tilting or swinging the back (sensor) as with a view camera. Portrait photographers routinely made people thinner or rounder that way--good for business. Of course, with the Canon the lens and the back swing together, but that still swings the back, making the person's breadth change.
For full figure I use a normal lens, for waist up I use a lens 1.5 x normal (the classical portrait lens). For a family of 4 to 6, I would use 35mm lens equivalent to 35mm camera, about 24mm (Canon has a nice pancake prime lens for this at a modest price, f2.8).
So anyway, for normal depth perspective, use 8 ft, regardless of format or lens. For normal proportions for fat or thin, make the sensor plane parallel to the subject plane. If you look you can see the effect in the live view, and adjust the shape of the person accordingly.
One of the Deardorff boys (Merle I think) published a formula that surprised me, but it works. The trick is that so-called perspective distortion with wide angle lenses (caused by being too close to the subject) is fully corrected by calculating the size of enlargement and the distance of the viewer. I am not making this up. If you shoot a closeup of a person with a wide angle, print it very large and look at it from a close distance (for instance, hang it in the hallway where people are close to it)--then it looks quite normal. If you make an 8x10 of it, and look at it from 3 or 4 inches, perspective again is normal, but you may need magnifier glasses. Alas, we can't always plan the enlargement size and the viewing distance for a shot, but there you are, anyway.
The formula is based on the standard that a 12" lens (305mm) will produce a normal perspective picture printed on 12" paper, seen at 12" from the eye. It makes no difference the format. A 6" lens for the same effect must be enlarged by 2 times more--so wide angle lenses look normal if enlarged more and seen at the same distance.
Divide focal length by viewing distance and you get degree of enlargement for the right perspective--12/12=1 (contact print with 12" paper amd 12 inch negative) 12/6=2 (print 2 times enlargement of the negative).
With minature negatives or sensors used today, the degree of enlargement is way bigger, but the formula still holds regardless. To correct perspective distortion, enlarge more and stand closer. You could hang a picture behind a sofa or piano to make people stand farther back, making the long lenses look more normal in print perspective.
Note--all the textbook samples of perspective effects are correct, but they fail to take into account viewing distance and degree of enlargement--their comparisons assume normal viewing held in the hand as "all else being the same."
Of course it all requires controlled conditions and knowing how the picture will be used. Sometimes we may know that.
The lovely portrait by cygone above using wide angle ipod for camera works fine because of the enormous degree of englargement, seen at reading distance, negates perspective distortion.