John_F wrote:
I was in Aperture mode with Auto ISO. The camera measured the light level in the way it does and set the shutter speed. Next try will be in better light and a fixed ISO and smaller f-stop, like 5.6. Don’t know what to do about WB.
When you were mostly off is ISO. There was still enough light to shoot at ISO 100. You should (almost) always shoot at base iso. F5.6 may be ok, but your f stop was ok also. What needed adjusted was ISO and shutter speed.... To do this you will need to be in manual
As several have started, your photos works as is.....I would bring out the detail inside the flower by moving the shadow slider to the left a little.... In post. WB is ok.....auto is good for outside.....
I think ....if you lower the iso and raise the shutter speed that will move the histogram more to the right
I think ....if you lower the iso and raise the shutter speed that will move the histogram more to the left
My choice for dealing with this situation is to use a flash and expose for the main object which is the flower. What you want to accomplish is to expose the flower properly and to allow for darkening of the background.
It is not that the photo in question is over exposed, it is more that the background is too bright.
The proper use of the histogram is seeing that the dynamic range is too great for this image and this camera. Changing ISO or shutter speed makes a global change and doesn't help differentiate between different parts of the image.
Averaging the metering will decrease the dynamic range and darken the background, but do you really want to lighten the flower?
Although it would not solve the problem, the relative size of the background to the image is very great and
it exacerbates the differential. A crop could be indicated.
At times, the prudent thing is to walk away and not trip the shutter - the difference between a good photo and a second rate snapshot.
To summarize, you have to "throw some light" on the subject and throw the rest into darkness.
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