David in Dallas Loc: Dallas, Texas, USA

You're very welcome. I'm glad you find them helpful.

ecurb1105

Just take the 18-270.

bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada

We done three Alaska cruises. I've used a 24-240 mm lens on all three. If you need wider, shoot subs for a panorama. 240 mm was adequate for whale watching, eagles, bears and moose.

bwa

jcboy3

Your 18-270 is just barely adequate for whales; it will depend on how close the boat can get to the whales. My last excursion, I was shooting at 400mm f/8-f/14 and cropping 60%. And we were bearing down quite close to the whales. Problem is, they tend to pop up pretty randomly.

Personally, I would take the 150-600 for any wildlife excursions. I take two cameras, so I don't have to try to change lenses. I also recommend a red dot site for use with the 150-600. It's hard to get on target with the whales in time; and trying to get the whale in your field of view, and zooming in if you have zoomed out to find it, will take time as well. Other wildlife is not as difficult; but on the sea you want to be quick. You also will want a high shutter speed (in good light I was shooting at 1/800-1/2000 sec); raise your ISO as needed to stay in that range. Remember, you're on a boat thats rockin and rollin and drifting and vibrating. And you're shooting fast so it's hard to take the time for proper stance and support.

I tend to shoot single auto focus, single focus point, continous high rate; and I shoot short bursts and then refocus. You can try continuous AF, but I would set a very high persistance so it doesn't change quickly if you get off target. The reason is that it's hard to predict how the boat is going to move, so it's hard to keep on the target. Multiple focus points will get confused with the ocean waves, since there isn't good separation betweeh the whale and the ocean surface. I lock focus when I see the target, and I shoot off a burst at that focus.

CamB Loc: Juneau, Alaska

If you're on a cruise, forget the long one. You will be on buses and in groups most of the time. 600 is too long for whales. You get the whale, but at 600mm distance it's not the detailed, graphic shot you are probably hoping for. Too much boat movement and atmosphere in the way. If you're keeping the whale small and putting it in it's environment with mountains and lighthouses in the background, you don't need that much power. I use long lenses for whale ID shots but most of my best WOW moments are shot with much shorter lenses.
...Cam, Juneau, Alaska Whale watching guide.

jcboy3

I like to see the barnacles on the whale; you need to get close for that.

CamB Loc: Juneau, Alaska

So do I, but it's more the boat, the weather and the light than a giant lens. I hope that's what you meant.
...Cam

SSD 2610 Loc: Pune, India

Wow. That's hugely helpful advice. Thanks a ton!

jcboy3

No. But I'm not talking about using a 600mm prime lens. The OP has a 150-600, and I think that's ideal for getting up close and personal with a whale. I'm also talking about using two cameras, and taking those wider angle shots as well.

CamB Loc: Juneau, Alaska

Sounds good.
...Cam

xt2 Loc: British Columbia, Canada

Take the lenses you like to use at home. Alaska is not really much different when it comes to glass choice...

Cheers!

barryb Loc: Kansas

Have many pics that I've taken in AK. the 150-600 is great, but I have to have a tripod, or at least a monopod, and it is big and heavy. A couple of my favorite shots were taken at 3am on the inner passage, might be worth setting an alarm. The shorter lenses should serve you well. good shooting.

jcboy3

On a boat, a monopod will transmit vibrations directly to the camera. But if you get a belt holster and put the monopod in that, your body will dampen the vibrations, you will get extra support, and you can pivot without getting tangled in yours or others feet. I use a flip-lock monopod for this use; it's quicker to adjust than a twist lock.