Scruples Loc: Brooklyn, New York

Thanks Hoggers! I'm really impressed at the volume of information I got after my last post. A friend lent me his intervalometer. He has had it from 2012. They didn't have the 5D MarkIV back then. He used it once. I guess I try it for a couple of photographs. That is another user manual to read. To me, it looks like a fancy shutter release. I'm not big on all the bells and whistles.

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

Just wondering, doesn't Canon already have an intervalometer built in it's menu somewhere? The way manufactures copy each other I would guess they do.

Pentax cameras for over a decade have got them built in.

I guess your restricted in using them to only 999 clicks and up to 99 minutes per shot but I don't think any more is needed anyway.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

You don't need one. Just a place card to cover your lens between bursts of fire works. I remove my card when I heard the WOOOP of the fire work being projected into the air. I cover the lens when the burst ends. Yes Virginia, it is that simple.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

No, for firework photography you probably don't need an intervalometer. The primary function of one of those is to take a shot every so often automatically, to make a time lapse sequence.

What you really need is a "remote release", so that you aren't touching the camera during longer exposures. For shooting fireworks, I'd recommend a "wired" release.

Canon offers two different types of wired releases for use with your camera...

Canon RS-80N3 is a simple, standard wired remote shutter release.

Canon TC-80N3 is an intervalometer, can be programmed to take shots periodically.... but it also can serve as a simple remote release.

Maybe it's the latter that you've heard about.

Best to buy these used, if at all possible. The Canon RS-80N3 and, especially, TC-80N3 are both rather expensive. But they often show up used on eBay and elsewhere for a whole lot less money.

There are also third party alternatives to these, such as Vello, that are MUCH less expensive. I have never used them and can't say how well made, how well they work or how reliable they are... but these are fairly "basic" devices.

I don't have a 5DIV, either. It might be possible to wirelessly connect to a smart phone or tablet that has the Canon Utilities app on it, and use that for remote release. This may not be as "instantaneous" as using a wired release though. If you have a smartphone or tablet, install the app and see if it works for you.

Timing is important when shooting fireworks (obviously). Use longer exposures to get more dramatic shots, but not necessarily using "bulb". That's for shots longer than 30 seconds. You don't need anywhere near that long exposure. There are ways to use bulb (see below), but they give you less precise control.

Typically you'll want shutter speeds in the 1/30 to 1 or 2 second range for fireworks (hence the tripod and remote release, to prevent camera shake). Longer exposures will capture more ambient light and the surroundings.

Probably the reason bulb is being discussed is to use the "card trick".... where you set the camera to bulb mode and use a card held covering the lens to "control exposure". That can work, too... making similar long exposures. But with a lot less exacting control than if you set the shutter release for specific times.

For more info about and suggestions for photographing fireworks, check out:

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/photography/proof/2017/06/photographing-fireworks-tips/
https://expertphotography.com/photographing-fireworks/

.... and many similar online guides, as well as any number of videos on Youtube and elsewhere.

IMPORTANT: Check if you have Canon's Long Exposure Noise Reduction (LENR) and remember how it works. First, it only works on exposures of 1 second or longer. Most importantly, it's actually two exposures. The first is the image... The second is a "blank" exposure of the same duration, with the shutter closed, that the camera uses to detect noise in the image and "deduct" from the first image. In other words, you have to trip the shutter twice when using LENR, it takes twice as long as what you've, to make a shot. And if you change the shutter speed to shorter duration such as 1/2, 1/4 second or longer, LENR stops working. If you forget LENR is enabled and just keep shooting, you may wonder why the camera is acting oddly and stop it from finishing the second exposure. If you do that, both exposures (the original shot and the "blank" shot) will be discarded and you'll end up with nothing!

In other words, if you use it, remember how LENR works (two shutter releases for every shot).... or just be sure that LENR is turned off so it doesn't start working unexpectedly and cause problems.

Finally, many years ago when I shot fireworks with my 4x5 camera, I'd make multiple exposures on a single sheet of film. That doesn't work with digital... but you can combine images in post processing, for similar effect. (Some digital cameras have a multi-exposure mode... of sorts. What they actually do is take separate JPEGs and then assemble them into a single image.)

chapjohn Loc: Tigard, Oregon

You can use the bulb setting and use a black card (bigger than the circumference of the front of your lens). Hold the card in front of the lens, yes, it needs to be touching the lens so no light s getting to the lens. Now press the shutter in bulb setting, using a remote shutter release is helpful. When the fireworks are bursting in air, remove the card after a second or two put the card in front of the lens. When the fireworks start again, remove the card for one or two seconds. Now stop pressing the shutter release. Use your lowest ISO setting. You should manually get focus before covering the lens. Repeat this as many times per image as you want, and repeat the process. This method can create some very nice images.

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

Using the term "prime zoom lens". Is like asking do I need two feet because I drive with an automatic transmission. You might want to review photography lens terms before using one.

No, you do not need an Intervalometer to photograph fireworks. An Intervalometer, either an external one that is most likely named as such or one built in to your camera's menus and functions, is often or mainly used for Astro-Photography or for making Time-lapsed (Composited) Videos from many individual exposures made over time. I have an Intervelometer that I have used for Star-Trails. Intervelometers are available from inexpensive to over-priced camera name branded models. They can also be used as fancy cable releases for your camera. For a full explanation...

I was going to reference a Web article but I could not find any I liked that would give you the info that I think you need or wanted. Since I was struck by your "prime zoom" comment you may be sick of me already, so I'll pass further help on. So you probably did do right by asking members of the UHH. I'm sure someone will give you more information than you could ever use. Good luck.

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

The OP already said that the "prime zoom" was a typo.

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

Yes, while I was composing (typing). I sometimes spend up to an hour writing a replay and things have often go far along by then.

TonyF Loc: Bradenton, FL

If you are considering one, check out the Vello Shutterboss II, $49. also, the manual only takes about 10 minutes to read and understand.

nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

"Interval" means time intervals. An intervalometer lets you set intervals between continuous shots. Can be every second, every minute, once an hour or day, whatever range the intervalometer offers.
It's that simple. Knowing what it is, whether you have a "need" for one is up to only you.

williejoha

It to be an AH, but my rule of thumb is. If you do not know what it is you probably won’t need it.
WJH

williejoha

It to be an AH, but my rule of thumb is. If you do not know what it is you probably won’t need it.
WJH

williejoha

Not to be an AH, but my rule of thumb is. If you do not know what it is you probably won’t need it.
WJH

TonyF Loc: Bradenton, FL

I don't know about that, Mr. Willie. For example, at one time I didn't know what a CP filter was and now won't leave home without it. And I don''t think you were being an AH!

Besperus Loc: Oregon

An all they do is set a time sequence between exposures. Your camera has this feature built in. Since you have a mirrored camera a remote shutter release might be a good addition or use the self timer to perform that function (not pressing the shutter release).