BebuLamar

I think that's for a FF camera. For an APS-C camera the shutter speed should be 1.5 times the focal length.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

In other posts about sharpness where I have participated I have said that sharpness depends more on the photographer than the camera or lens. A common lack of sharpness results from the improper use of AF. Poor photographic technique is the best friend of images that are not sharp.

Like the majority of us here I use often lenses with VR and it certainly works but lets not forget VR is ineffective for moving subjects. Even a camera on a tripod using a cable to release the shutter could yield blurred images if the shutter speed is low and the tripod is not stable enough or is moved (camera or tripod) inadvertently during the exposure. Mirror mechanism have gotten better although some of them could cause camera shake at slow shutter speeds. As you can see there are many variables that could make an image blurred and atmospheric conditions cannot be left behind such as what happens in a hot day when using a tele.

The rule of thumb is that you should get an acceptable or reasonably sharp image using a shutter speed higher than the focal length of the lens in use. For your 15-70 lens ( could it be the 18-70?) your minimum shutter speed should be 1/125sec. Raising the ISO speed of the sensor by 1 stop is usually effective but using good photographic technique is as important as using a high shutter speed. I am very confident in the sharpness of my images, regardless of the lens in use when my camera is on a steady tripod but as I said, even using a tripod there is no excuse for good photographic techniques.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

The rule of thumb is 1/focal length, full frame equivalent. So you would be at a minimum of 1/140, better to have 1/200.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

It's just a guideline but the answer is 1 / lens millimeter, so a 200 millimeter lens you would shoot at 1 / 200 minimum. This is just a guideline for shooting handheld but it depends on you, if you're steady you could shoot slower than that. Sometimes I can and sometimes I cannot.

Remember the longer the lens the more movement the faster the shutter speed so anything over 200 at least double it. And sometimes even at 200mm I'll shoot 1 / 400 minimum. It's just a guideline. the thing to do is look at your photos and decide for yourself.

Idaho

Back into it. Within the limits of the ISO you want and the f stop you need, see what you get for shutter speed. The best answer is... it depends.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

Personally, I use 1/focal length as a GUIDELINE which I happily break as needed. Given VR systems and my 50 plus years of experience, I can go much lower, or at least try. Best of luck.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

Personally, I use 1/focal length as a GUIDELINE which I happily break as needed. Given VR systems and my 50 plus years of experience, I can go much lower, or at least try. Best of luck.

MikeT9

A little suggestion for you. Rather than ask the question of the hogs, why don’t you go outside and try using your camera by changing the shutter speed to find out. Who knows you might gain an understanding of how to set your camera shutter speed in different circumstances to get a sharp picture and in turn learn something about understanding exposure. If you hit a problem that you don’t understand, try googling it. It’s amazing what you pick up when you make a bit of effort on your own behalf. Then after all that if have a problem that you can’t find the answer to, ask the hogs.

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

1/1000

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

"...what would you suggest the minimum hand held shutter speed would be for getting a sharp photo..."
watersedge what is the subject? That also drives this equation... and is seriously important...

As for "sharp photo" that is rather subjective depending on viewing distance, resolution, etc... I believe what you are attempting to determine is "perceived acuity" which deals with contrast edges etc.and how effectively the sensor renders them and likewise how you enhance the image in post processing...

Please realize there is BOTH camera movement and subject movement latent in this equation... each are critically important... it does little good to lock down your camera on a massive tripod and shoot a gymnast or ballerina in midair at the reciprocal rule... that would result in an epic fail...

The very best advice I can provide here is to learn how to use your kit effectively... Do not rely on hearsay from this or other forums... but instead please consider assisting other commercial photographers in your market. This has been my path and has served me well...

Food for thought... a ballerina in midair at 1/800... focal length 350mm... I had worked with this client many times before and knew from countless hours of testing the actually limits of my kit and my own abilities to pan a moving subject...
enough said.

Hope this helps, watersedge or is at least food for thought...
I wish you well on your journey...
.

1/800 second; focal length 350mm

(Download)

FJS

If you are using a APS-C camera, multiply the focal length of any FF lens by 1.6 before applying the reciprocal rule. So if the lens is FF, then 70mm is actually 112mm on the camera and the minimum shutter speed becomes the closest you can get to 1/112 sec. (i.e., 1/125). If you have an image stabilizer, you theoretically can show the shutter down by the power of the VR. My Canon 300mm L lens on a APS-C camera has a 4X IS (VR) so 300 x 1.6= 480mm = 1/500 sec. without IS engaged. Now if I really believe canon's claim 4 f-stop vibration reduction, I could shoot at 1/30th sec. I have tested it at 1/60th and with me holding the camera, that is the limit for a usable image.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

As you probably know, the higher the ISO, the more noise in the photo. Exposure is a compromise.

Wide open lens for more light: least depth of field
High ISO for more light: more noise
Slow shutter speed for more light: more motion blur

You choose the best combination for the circumstance you find yourself in.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Yes, the "general rule" is that you can hand hold at shutter speeds equal to 1/focal length....

HOWEVER, that's an old guideline from the days of film... and is specific to 35mm film SLRs and rangefinder cameras with 24x36mm image format. Today we call that "full frame" in digital cameras that have a sensor that size.

You mention using a crop camera and that has to be taken into consideration. You didn't specify the exact crop... among interchangeable lens DSLRs there are APS-H, three or four different APS-C, micro Four/Thirds, and 1" crop format sensors... just to name a few. APS-C 1.6X or 1.5X are probably the most common, so I'll use one of those as an example.

On a 1.5X crop camera a 15mm lens will "act like 22.5mm on full frame" (15 x 1.5 = 22.5)... So the guideline says you'll need at least 1/22.5 shutter speed. The closest available shutter speed is 1/25, so that's what the guideline adjusted for crop suggests we use as a minimum.

At the other extreme of the zoom, 70mm will "act like 105mm on full frame".... so we'd probably be able to get a steady shot using a minimum 1/100 or 1/125 shutter speed.

These "minimum" shutter speeds don't guarantee anything. For most people they are likely to produce a fairly high percentage of shots that are free of "camera shake blur".

But everyone is a bit different. With good technique and a steady hand, someone might be able to hold slightly slower speeds. Someone else who isn't as steady or practiced might need a little faster.

The higher density a camera's sensor, the more susceptible to shake blur it will be, too. Many APS-C are now 24MP, which is very crowded with tiny pixels. In fact, it's more densely packed than a 50MP full frame Canon 5DS. There are even rumors that Canon will soon be introducing an APS-C camera with more than 30MP, which will require even more care for this reason.

Tripods and monopods can allow longer shutter speeds to be used. Shooting too fast and "stabbing" at a shutter release button can make for blurred shots. You also have to be cognizant of "mirror slap" and shutter vibrations causing problems with images. Mirror lockup or Live View shooting can help minimize the effects of those at some of the more susceptible shutter speeds... Those are typically between 2 seconds and 1/30... shorter andlonger speeds see less problem from internal camera vibrations. The reason longer vibrations are less effected is because the vibration only occurs during a small portion of the overall exposure.

On the other hand, many cameras and/or lenses now have image stabilization, which helps counteract all but the biggest camera movements and internal vibrations to help insure a high percentage of shots free of camera shake blur, even at exceptionally low speeds.

"Your mileage may vary", though. So do some testing of your own gear and capabilities.

Someone mentioned film ASA, which is the same as digital ISO... That doesn't really matter, except that you use ISO adjustments, along with aperture settings, to control your shutter speeds.

Also keep in mind that moving subjects will blur at slower shutter speeds. Tripods, image stabilization, etc. can't help with that... you simply need fast enough shutter speed if your intention is to freeze movement.

When in doubt, use a flash! The typical flash gives a very short duration, most are equivalent to 1/720 or faster shutter speed. That can go a long way insuring sharp shots, both counteracting camera shake and freezing subject movement.

Jaackil Loc: Massachusetts

I have seen this several times in this post. Why would crop factor matter? Crop factor only changes the field of view not the focal length of the lens. I have used 1/focal length for years and never had a problem even at 300mm (my longest lens) I have shot at 1/250.

BebuLamar

But the camera shake is proportional to the field of view and not focal length. The smaller the field of view the more camera shake. Take the Nikon P1000 and its longest focal length is 539mm. See if you can hand hold it at 1/640 at its longest zoom setting.