bubble level for panorama.
May 1, 2019 11:27:31 #
The camera doesn't have to be level. You just need to take enough overlapping images to stitch. If in doubt, shoot a second row. It's really ok to crop later. You certainly will end up with more than enough pixels.
May 1, 2019 11:28:22 #
macthemac wrote:
I have already used search to find a travel tripod. I am going to Glacier NP and plan to do lots of panorama possibly as much as 180degrees. Reviews indicate that the integral bubble level on the MeFoto is uselss with a camera mounted on the ball head. To avoid getting a jagged edge on the bottom of each pan do i need to buy a bubble level for the hot shoe?
You’re correct in that the tripod can be level but the camera on top of the ballhead may not be. Using a level in the hot shoe can be an effective way to get the best edges requiring the least amount of cropping once stitched. Most are pretty inexpensive. For a few bucks ($6-8 on Amazon) they can be helpful.
May 1, 2019 11:28:22 #
May 1, 2019 13:36:44 #
May 1, 2019 13:40:24 #
macthemac wrote:
I have already used search to find a travel tripod. I am going to Glacier NP and plan to do lots of panorama possibly as much as 180degrees. Reviews indicate that the integral bubble level on the MeFoto is uselss with a camera mounted on the ball head. To avoid getting a jagged edge on the bottom of each pan do i need to buy a bubble level for the hot shoe?
I shoot all my panoramas handheld and simply shoot a bit wider than required so I can crop to get the final result I want.
bwa
May 1, 2019 14:12:46 #
bwana wrote:
Same here. I don't even take a tripod with me on my tours. I do find that using vertical (portrait) camera orientation and taking more shots produces better panoramae. With practice, I've also gotten better at maintaining a fairly even level while shooting. I usually do some preparatory post-processing of my photos before attempting stitching, so adjusting level where needed is part of that process.I shoot all my panoramas handheld and simply shoot a bit wider than required so I can crop to get the final result I want.
bwa
bwa
May 1, 2019 15:26:57 #
bwana wrote:
I shoot all my panoramas handheld and simply shoot a bit wider than required so I can crop to get the final result I want.
bwa
bwa
This was a hand held pano. And no, the camera was not necessarily level either.
May 1, 2019 16:15:52 #
DWU2 wrote:
My camera has "rule of thirds" lines that can be turned on in the viewfinder. I find them extremely helpful in taking a level series of pano shots.
Both of my cameras also have this. Usually hand hold panoramas.
May 1, 2019 16:48:13 #
Gene51 wrote:
This may cause you to rethink the whole need for "level" for pano.
https://petapixel.com/2016/10/27/stitching-panorama-forget-wide-angle-lens-home/
Not only does the camera not need to pan a level line, it doesn't even need to be level at all. All the software needs to see is stitching points. I do hand held panos with my DSLRs about 40% of the time. And I do have a multi-row pano head for when I need critical alignment and no parallax error.
https://petapixel.com/2016/10/27/stitching-panorama-forget-wide-angle-lens-home/
Not only does the camera not need to pan a level line, it doesn't even need to be level at all. All the software needs to see is stitching points. I do hand held panos with my DSLRs about 40% of the time. And I do have a multi-row pano head for when I need critical alignment and no parallax error.
A nodal rail is required to eliminate parallax error for items in foreground
Your link does not show that the camera does not need to be level. The reason for the white space at the top of the stitched image is because the camera wasn’t level. If it had been level you would not have to crop as much. That being said, you did do a good job in making the best of what you had and got a nice image
May 1, 2019 17:18:33 #
David in Dallas wrote:
Same here. I don't even take a tripod with me on my tours. I do find that using vertical (portrait) camera orientation and taking more shots produces better panoramae. With practice, I've also gotten better at maintaining a fairly even level while shooting. I usually do some preparatory post-processing of my photos before attempting stitching, so adjusting level where needed is part of that process.
I'll have to give Portrait mode a shot, particularly on landscape panos.
I find preparing panoramas / mosaics in Affinity Photo nicely eliminates having to adjusting individual sub levels prior to stitching, although I do, on occasions, have to correct vignetting prior to stitching.
A recent panorama is attached.
bwa
May 2, 2019 12:00:34 #
carl hervol
Loc: jacksonville florida
You have the option to put grip lines in your finder I put them on bought of my cameras just line up the line to the horizon I guess people just read there manuals . 
May 2, 2019 12:16:25 #
You can always use something like the Arcatech Long Lens Head (https://www.adorama.com/acr1160.html kinda expensive, but great quality) with a level tripod. I'm probably going to purchase the iFootage Gazelle since I'm getting tired of trying to level my tripod all of the time. I also have an L bracket on my camera which makes portrait orientation easy. I also think you need to have at least a ballhead that has the pano feature (The long lens head has that) but without a level tripod it makes it harder.
May 2, 2019 12:19:34 #
I use a RRS panning clamp on top of my ballhead. Tripod does not have to be level. I only need to level the panning clamp.
May 2, 2019 12:30:59 #
Another option for your tripod is the Slik Leveling unit here https://www.adorama.com/sllu2.html?origterm=slik+leveling+unit+ii&searchredirect=true
May 2, 2019 13:51:09 #
rydabyk wrote:
You can always use something like the Arcatech Lon... (show quote)
Just shoot handheld, do a little postprocessing and save a chunk of cash and having to lug around a tripod.
bwa
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