Modbuilder

Lee -- I assume that you're switching the window pull layer mode to Darken in Ps, that the pull layer is above the background layer, and the pull layer has a black mask?

The only thing I can think of that might be missing is that you set the shutter speed for a proper exposure of the view out the window, and then grossly overpower the flash. Ps is supposed to use Darken mode to reveal the pixels that are darker than the pixels below and conceal the ones that are not. So when you paint white over the black mask it should nicely bring the "dark" properly exposed pixels down to the background and leave the overexposed pixels concealed. At least that's my understanding of it.

Let us know how you make out. Regards........... Bob R.

DWHart24 Loc: Central Florida

No problem. Once you get it down, it really doesn't take long. I think cutting the window out takes longer. But there are a lot of times you don't need to do window pulls since you may not really have a view to "show off".

steveg48

‘Darken’ is a blending mode. Blending modes are selected in a drop down in the layers panel.

1DProphet

Quickest selections of hard edged items to be dropped into something in our workflow would be done with a channels based selection, creating an alpha channel, if it’s a complicated selection you may have to employ calculations as well, calculations is just a channel based blend if, sounds like a lot but really can be as short as six clicks, then drag and drop your selection into place, lot of good info online, channel based selections

IDguy Loc: Idaho

You might have the image selected rather than the mask when you brush. Or you have black as the default color vs. white for the brush (lower left).

I like the method and will enjoy trying it vs. hdr.

johnmccarthy Loc: North Hampton NH

I do a great deal of real estate photography and I have used this technique with limited success. Someone above asked if you had the layers in the correct order and that may be the problem. If I have really overexposed the window frame, as Rich describes in the video, I select the glass area using the polygonal tool and hit Delete, and the window view appears. For my own work, I prefer to use 5 bracketed images for HDR and process with Photomatix because it is much faster than using the flambient technique. Good luck

JDG3

Your technique and process sounds interesting. But that is a lot of time to spend on a real estate shoot. I would hope the property you are doing all this work is highly valued. In my area, real estate photographers are competing against the realtors shooting their own photos with their phones. And, to their credit, many of the high end phones do a remarkable job in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. Therefore the average fee to shoot an average home in our area is around $100-125. Agents have a hard time justifying spending any money (it comes out of their commission) on a photographer when the property moves so fast. Lately we have been seeing homes sell with only the front, outside shot and a note on the listing that other photos to follow. The home often sells before any additional photos are required.

ANY post processing really adds a lot of time and takes a bite out of your return. If you are only making $125 per shoot then you have to turn a LOT of homes to make a living from real estate photography. Some of the photographers I know try to do 40-50 shoots a week. If you are spending 45 minutes to an hour at the house this leaves little time for post processing, travel time, sleep, etc.

I took a course at the local university from the most successful real estate photographer in our area and he shoots everything in jpg. He uses 3-5 shot HDRs for windows and does minimal post processing in Lightroom, mostly resizing to real estate requirements. If the property worth is very high ($500K+) he may spend more time but rarely more than an hour and most of that at the house setting up the shots.

DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX

Have you considered using lights? It's really the only way if you don't want to blow out the windows. Oh, I suppose you could use HDR but a single light will do in most cases.

johnmccarthy Loc: North Hampton NH

JDG3, I think you might be selling your work a little cheap. I've been doing this for 5 years and my average price is over $200. I had a shoot in 2017 that was $1,000. I charge by the photo and check my prices with other photographers a couple of times a year to be sure I'm at or below their prices. I photographed over 160 properties last year and referred work when I was too busy. Although I am also a REALTOR, I use real estate photos as a primary income.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

Tried it. The darken method worked to bring in the view outside the windows. But it also darkened the window surrounds so would take carefull brushing.

My camera’s two shot HDR wasn’t nearly as nice using 3 EV.

I might try a real five shot HDR.

DWHart24 Loc: Central Florida

That's because you didn't use a speed light aimed towards the window.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

Good point. Did not.

Didn’t think I needed it because the room was quite bright...all windows. But I see how using the speedlight on the windows with the exposure set for the outside might solve the darkening of the frames. Not sure if my speedlight (SB 700) has the necessary oomph. Another test!

DWHart24 Loc: Central Florida

It does. That's what I use. I also use the Godox 685. You only need about a 1/4-1/2 power because you are aiming at the window, not at the ceiling.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

Perhaps I am not as patient as you, but I accomplish most of this in HDR and I'm extra careful not to overdo it. Best of luck.