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Feb 19, 2013 00:45:17   #
CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver
 
TTKBJR wrote:
CaptainC wrote:
TTKBJR wrote:
CaptainC wrote:
TTKBJR wrote:
CaptainC wrote:
Hate to hijack a thread, but since YOU did:

Lens for action swimming was always the 70-200. For the starting block shots it was either the 17-55 or 24-70, depending on D2X, D3, or D7000.

Ball player was the lighting, NIK Tonal Contrast, Topaz Spicify, NIK Pro Contrast. But much of the effect was in the lighting.

I looked at the portrait page and there are 26 images and I would guess 22 different lighting arrangements. A few were ONE light, one or two had 4 lights, and the positioning was all over the place. I use umbrellas a lot on location as they pack and set up so quickly. Studio stuff is almost always softboxes. Square, rectangular, and octagonal.

Some location work is done with just Nikon SB-800 flashes.

With very few exceptions, even my outdoor stuff will have at least one flash.

I do use a retouching plug-in for the business headshots as those need to be done fast and they are reproduced small. I use Portraiture by Imagenomic. For real portrait customers, I have some techniques I have picked up over the years that are more labor intensive, but give a much more honest look. Even with Portraiture, I use it on a layer mask so I can remove the effect that will sometimes hit the eyes, teeth and hair.
Hate to hijack a thread, but since YOU did: br br... (show quote)


Just for the record, I did not hijack this thread since I started it. I appreciate your answers, thank you. I thought I could get away with just using umbrellas but I am thinking I need some soft boxes too. Thanks for the info....love your work.
quote=CaptainC Hate to hijack a thread, but since... (show quote)


Oh yeah - can't hijack your own thread!

Actually, you CAN use just umbrellas. The big difference is that the softbox does allow for a bit more control - using the edges allows for more feathering control and the umbrella tends to spray light more. Both are useful. On my website the vast majority of the business headshots are done with an umbrella as the main light. I agree, though, that for hair and accent lights, the gridded strip banks are superior to control that light to specific areas and preclude lens flare.
quote=TTKBJR quote=CaptainC Hate to hijack a thr... (show quote)



The problem I had with my umbrella lights is that they did not seem to be bright enough. I felt like I needed more light. I had three lights perhaps I need 4?
quote=CaptainC quote=TTKBJR quote=CaptainC Hate... (show quote)


If the light in the 3 is not bright enough, then adding one more will give you 4 that are not bright enough.

What we need to know is what lights are in these umbrellas. I use speedlights and they are NEVER at full power - usually around quarter power - plenty of light with umbrellas.

Now if you are using continuous lights, adding one more will be one more insufficient light. Needless to say, I think speedlights are a far better choice than continuous lights (tungsten). Now the new bright LED stuff is a different story.
quote=TTKBJR quote=CaptainC quote=TTKBJR quote... (show quote)


Yeah, they are continuous bulbs and not LED's. Perhaps I should try some.
quote=CaptainC quote=TTKBJR quote=CaptainC quo... (show quote)


The Westcott TD6 set is around $1100 for two lights and soft boxes. Those are the Daylight Fluorescent and decent LEDs are around $400 to $600 each.

So speedlights are the same or less and brighter than either. I am not against continuous lights. In the future I would love to get a nice set of the LED lights. But they are simply not as versatile and powerful as speedlights - let alone studio-type strobes.

Tungsten continuous lights only have one saving grace...cheap.

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