fungi in the moss
Feb 4, 2013 13:08:50 #
I noticed that the moss had grown on the flat roof and behold a couple of fungi, so had to try my luck. Have used F4 mainly to see what happens with the depth of field and clarity of image.
Image 1 = 1/50-sec at f/4, iso 200, 15 stacked
image 2 = 1/160-sec at f/4, ISO 200, 7 stacked
Image 3 = 1/200-sec at f/4, ISO 200, 7 stacked
Feb 4, 2013 13:15:47 #
I like image #1 best. Without a recognizable scale, it is hard for viewer to appreciate size of fungi.
Feb 4, 2013 13:16:04 #
a couple more
Image #4 = 1/13-sec at f/8, ISO 200, 7 stacked
Image #5 = 1/10-sec at f/8, ISO 200, 11 stacked
Image #6 = 1/40-sec at f/5, ISO 200, 3 stacked
Feb 4, 2013 13:16:19 #
these are very artistic,i have been wanting to do some like this but then i see a bug...........tom
Feb 4, 2013 13:18:27 #
Just had to put in this one too. The head of a stigma appearing to float in colour
Image #7 = 1/4-sec at f/5, ISO 200, 7 focus stacked
Feb 4, 2013 13:21:34 #
The size of the fungi is about 20mm high about 30 - 40 mm across. There were smaller ones which I used too
Feb 4, 2013 13:30:01 #
Feb 4, 2013 20:59:45 #
I like what you've done with creating that "zone of focus" for the fungi-- and kudos for shooting at f/4!
However, if you look closely @ #1, #3, & #5, you'll seen some "image echo" (I made that term up!) in the images.
This can be caused by an ever so slight movement of the tripod-- or it can be caused when the image size differs too greatly from front to back.
How are you changing the focal plane? macro rail or re-focusing lens?
However, if you look closely @ #1, #3, & #5, you'll seen some "image echo" (I made that term up!) in the images.
This can be caused by an ever so slight movement of the tripod-- or it can be caused when the image size differs too greatly from front to back.
How are you changing the focal plane? macro rail or re-focusing lens?
Feb 5, 2013 04:07:57 #
Hi
I refocus the lens. My tripod is a very cheap one and very unstable for macro. I have recently purchased another tripod from ebay a Velbon 600R which I hope will be more stable. I wonder could it also be the photo stacking program. I dont understand when you said about the difference between front and rear of image, could you go into more detail please. I want my images to be of good quality so everything that helps would be appreciated. Thanks for your comments.
I refocus the lens. My tripod is a very cheap one and very unstable for macro. I have recently purchased another tripod from ebay a Velbon 600R which I hope will be more stable. I wonder could it also be the photo stacking program. I dont understand when you said about the difference between front and rear of image, could you go into more detail please. I want my images to be of good quality so everything that helps would be appreciated. Thanks for your comments.
Feb 5, 2013 09:56:38 #
Feb 5, 2013 11:32:27 #
Feb 5, 2013 13:30:26 #
steve1oshea wrote:
In some cases if the size of the image changes too much from front to back, the stacking program has a more difficult time making the alignment match with precision. I can't imagine doing macro stacks by focusing with the lens-- I'm just not that steady and I know I would bump the lens. A macro rail or slide allows you to move the camera and lens in more measurable increments. As you note, a steady tripod and a very careful methodology will help immensely. What stacking software do you use? IMO Helicon and Zerene are two of the better ones.I re-focus the lens.
Feb 5, 2013 15:57:41 #
Feb 5, 2013 16:18:28 #
Hi
I use Combine ZM its a free download. I think with a good tripod manual focus is still viable. I know I used F4 with the images so the overlap of "in focus" was very small but up to now it is still a learning curve. The main aim is to push the boundries to see how far one can go with the set up I have. There has to come a point where enjoyment is compromised with pursuit of perfection. I am trying to find that point. I have been studying the work of Michael Erlewine and with the equipment I have I know it would be nearly imposible to match the quality and clarity of his work but I want to get as close as possible. I do value yours and everyone's comments because it helps me nearer my goal.
I use Combine ZM its a free download. I think with a good tripod manual focus is still viable. I know I used F4 with the images so the overlap of "in focus" was very small but up to now it is still a learning curve. The main aim is to push the boundries to see how far one can go with the set up I have. There has to come a point where enjoyment is compromised with pursuit of perfection. I am trying to find that point. I have been studying the work of Michael Erlewine and with the equipment I have I know it would be nearly imposible to match the quality and clarity of his work but I want to get as close as possible. I do value yours and everyone's comments because it helps me nearer my goal.
Feb 5, 2013 16:49:32 #
steve1oshea wrote:
I use Combine ZM its a free download. I think with... (show quote)
Agree 100% with your goals. I use a DIY flash diffuser made from cardboard, tape and packing material. I always try to do more with less.
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