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More Mc Cup photo's
Jan 30, 2013 01:25:10   #
clicktime Loc: Yucca Valley Ca.
 
Here is more cup photo's. I'm having problems with extreme sharpness and still working on it. I have invented a new way to capture small bugs using a tube with a filter inside of it. You suck them up the tube and then blow them out in the McCup. It is very gentle on them and you don't use something that injures them. Great way to relise them back where they came from as well.











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Jan 30, 2013 02:42:58   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
Good spider; excellent hoverfly! No exif info, so no setting recommendations possible, other than to say that small circular refraction can effect resolution, starting at f/16, worsening at f/22. Use caution trying to increase DoF.

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Jan 30, 2013 05:42:10   #
martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida
 
In the first photo of the Hoover you Nailed Focus.. No question it doesn't get much better than that. I hope you are comparing apples to apples and oranges to oranges. What you see on the net and some of the links that Nikonian72 provides is a Lot of Focus Stacking. Single shot photos can only be so sharp. F/22 and Perfect alignment/squared to subject is the best you can do, Period. Even on this site we are seeing more and more stacked photos even it's only 2 or 3 photos. If not mentioned you might think they are extremely sharp and are reaching for something Not attainable with single shot macros. The spider is extremely sharp for single shot macro. All I can suggest is the smaller the subject the more will fit into the focus range/DOF. I like my larger jumping spiders but Love the smaller ones as I attain deeper DOF on the subject, hence the size.

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Jan 30, 2013 08:14:44   #
clicktime Loc: Yucca Valley Ca.
 
The first one was f/16, iso 100, 1/160. The spider was f/9, iso 100 @ 1/160. I'm getting alot of bad shots it seem like the distance the flash is from the cup makes a major difference. And the location of the flash up or down the cup changes it a lot too. f-stop doesn't seem to make much of a change. I'm also having problems with my cheap tubes and there contacts searching for focus. I need to get a subject that won't move and do some step by step testing. Overall I am pleased with the new setup and I think it can do some amazing things. I have a new camera I got yesterday a canon 5D-3. It has taken all my attention trying to learn it's new features. Looks like it has the same focus features as the 1DX. It has many more settings for focus modes.It's much better then the 5d-2.

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Jan 30, 2013 08:28:05   #
LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field
 
clicktime wrote:
The first one was f/16, iso 100, 1/160. The spider was f/9, iso 100 @ 1/160. I'm getting alot of bad shots it seem like the distance the flash is from the cup makes a major differents. And the location of the flash up or down the cup changes it alot to. f-stop doesn't seem to make much of a change. I'm also having problems with my cheap tubes and there contacts surching for focus. I need to get a subject that won't move and do some step by step testing. Overall I am pleased with the new setup and I think it can do some amaizing things. I have a new camera I got yesturday a canon 5D-3. It has taken all my attention trying to learn it's new features. Looks like it has the same focus features as the 1DX. It has many more settings for focus modes.It's much better then the 5d-2.
The first one was f/16, iso 100, 1/160. The spider... (show quote)

I've tried AF-Lock with spot focus and I've come to the conclusion that manual is the best focusing method. Some MP try this: setting camera to MF & adjusting lens to 1:1 and then moving camera to attain focus. There are fewer controls to manipulate.
I also try to set aperture, ISO, & shutter duration to the correct exposure and then set flash to manual & adjust flash output to match the exposure. Check live view and the histogram... and adjust flash output as needed.
I find if I make too many adjustments, I over-think the technicals and miss my shot (The bug is gone!).

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Jan 30, 2013 08:39:01   #
clicktime Loc: Yucca Valley Ca.
 
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
I've tried AF-Lock with spot focus and I've come to the conclusion that manual is the best focusing method. Some MP try this: setting camera to MF & adjusting lens to 1:1 and then moving camera to attain focus. There are fewer controls to manipulate.
I also try to set aperture, ISO, & shutter duration to the correct exposure and then set flash to manual & adjust flash output to match the exposure. Check live view and the histogram... and adjust flash output as needed.
I find if I make too many adjustments, I over-think the technicals and miss my shot (The bug is gone!).
I've tried AF-Lock with spot focus and I've come t... (show quote)
I do use that method alot. I have the camera on a ballhead on a macro stand. I added a new feature to my setup yesterday, I cut a rubber surgical glove and stretched it over the end of the cup and then stretched it over the lens on the other end so flying bugs can't get away. It's nice when you can keep trying and learning from your mistakes. I move the cup forward and backwards to get final focus instead of moving the camera. That is why I have problems moving the flash around on the cup. Thanks for the help I'll get there.

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Jan 30, 2013 12:55:06   #
martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida
 
clicktime wrote:
I'm also having problems with my cheap tubes and there contacts searching for focus.
I talked to Blurryeyed about this problem with auto focus and using tubes. The more tubes I put on the slower the focus. I was thinking it was the contacts and I do have the Kenkos. Blurryeyed convinced me it was the camera's auto focusing having the problem with too Little Light, thus slowing the focusing down. I now simply run the lens all the way out and manual focus by moving back and forth.. My problem is Seeing the Tiny eyes of some of my subjects to get good focus. I can set the diopter to match the sharp auto focus of the camera and lens, but when the subjects are so small I'm having problems. I will have to upgrade my reading glasses

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Jan 30, 2013 13:57:54   #
LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field
 
fstop22 wrote:
My problem is Seeing the Tiny eyes of some of my subjects to get good focus. I can set the diopter to match the sharp auto focus of the camera and lens, but when the subjects are so small I'm having problems. I will have to upgrade my reading glasses
I'm in the same boat. Need better glasses!

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