unwanted shadow
Oct 31, 2011 15:30:31 #
I recently took some pictures with a backdrop. I had a reflector that I thought would prevent the shadow but it did not and the shadow is very harsh on the left side in some of them. My question is, what is the easiest fix in Photoshop, and what do I need to purchase to prevent this from happening in the future. I am inclosing a picture of my son.Not sure how to turn him either...lol... :-(
Oct 31, 2011 15:34:53 #
I use studio lights and light from the sides,it eliminates the shadow. There are some pretty inexpensive light kits out there.
Oct 31, 2011 15:37:46 #
Oct 31, 2011 15:54:20 #
The easiest fix on this problem is to move the subject about 8 feet in front of the background.
Oct 31, 2011 15:55:08 #
Rhonda wrote:
Do you recomend a certain brand? Thanks!
I'm using a combination of Interfit and Morris equip. Morris makes a light kit w/ two stands,lights and 43"umbrellas for around 150.00 .THE MODEL # is MOACUF2K at http://www.bhphotovideo.com. I have been using it for about a year with no problems.
Oct 31, 2011 16:03:49 #
Oct 31, 2011 16:04:16 #
Oct 31, 2011 16:17:33 #
Rhonda wrote:
Would you do that and still add the extra lighting?
I use the lighting equip. because You don't always have the extra 8 or 10 feet to play with. For an example in a basement or a small room.
Oct 31, 2011 16:51:42 #
To fix the shadow on this one I used the magic wand tool in PSE9 to get the shadow areas selecting areas going down the photo and in the space by his arm a bit at a time. I used 3 px feather with this. As it will pick little bits and pieces of the hair you need to be careful in those areas not to remove what you don't want to remove. I just used the selection tool to give me a pretty good outline and make my next step easier. I then cloned out each area being careful to clone from areas nearby where I was working so the colors would match better. After cloning you may find a little shadow left. Carefully clone those out with a small brush. If you need to get color to match better in some places either use cloning or the healing brush.
original photo
edited photo
Oct 31, 2011 17:09:33 #
Oct 31, 2011 17:24:57 #
You are good at this, it looks nice. I have an older version but I think I have all of those options. Thanks so much.
Oct 31, 2011 19:07:23 #
Rhonda wrote:
You are good at this, it looks nice. I have an older version but I think I have all of those options. Thanks so much.
Your welcome. Yes the older version should still have these options.
Oct 31, 2011 19:15:34 #
Frank T wrote:
The easiest fix on this problem is to move the subject about 8 feet in front of the background.
Frank is correct. Most pro's shoot about 6 feet from the background. You can light the back ground separately with a flash also will remove background shadows. If you move out 8 feet and your flash is off camera to the right at about 45 degrees and a little high you can create a totally black backgrounds. Your flash has to be strong enough and your aperture high enough to do this.
Russ
Oct 31, 2011 21:24:12 #
All who posted here are giving good advice. I thought I might throw in one concept that I'm sure that most already know but it might help a newbie understand why that you are suggesting this.
As Photophly suggested the use of studio lights is the best way to light this particular type of portrait. The concept behind the umbrellas is the size of the light compared to the subject. The larger the light source, the softer the shadows. This is why large umbrellas and soft boxes are used. To add to that thought, the closer that you move the light to the subject, the larger you are making the relative size of the light compared to the subject therefore the softer the light becomes.
The posted photo was taken with on camera flash and that is never going to give you anything but a harsh flat light and a dark shadow under these conditions. I mention this only because I've seen so many people struggle with flash trying to get these small strobes to give pleasing results and it just isn't going to do it. There are attachments and various doodads to improve the small strobes but by the time you buy these and find out it still doesnt work well, you could have bought a studio kit.
If you want to immediately improve your portraits, take the above advice and get a two light setup with a couple of 42 inch umbrellas. This will save you time, frustration and money in the long run.
P.S. I'm assuming that you are shooting a dslr. Many non dslr cameras have no way to synch to a studio flash.
As Photophly suggested the use of studio lights is the best way to light this particular type of portrait. The concept behind the umbrellas is the size of the light compared to the subject. The larger the light source, the softer the shadows. This is why large umbrellas and soft boxes are used. To add to that thought, the closer that you move the light to the subject, the larger you are making the relative size of the light compared to the subject therefore the softer the light becomes.
The posted photo was taken with on camera flash and that is never going to give you anything but a harsh flat light and a dark shadow under these conditions. I mention this only because I've seen so many people struggle with flash trying to get these small strobes to give pleasing results and it just isn't going to do it. There are attachments and various doodads to improve the small strobes but by the time you buy these and find out it still doesnt work well, you could have bought a studio kit.
If you want to immediately improve your portraits, take the above advice and get a two light setup with a couple of 42 inch umbrellas. This will save you time, frustration and money in the long run.
P.S. I'm assuming that you are shooting a dslr. Many non dslr cameras have no way to synch to a studio flash.
Oct 31, 2011 22:02:51 #
Good advice jkf.
I do use smaller flash units for fill in an outdoor setting. There much more portable. Given the situation here no question studio flash is better. I just started shooting with four einsteins. Still working out several setups. Your still going to need them bells and wistles. A studio flash at 500 ws is about 7 times more powerful than a on camera strobe. (unless you buy a quantum which will set you back as much as a studio kit. At iso 100 you can shoot at f16 at 1/120 or better. The more powerful the strobe the better -- you can always stop them back. The question is how much do want to spend.
Russ
I do use smaller flash units for fill in an outdoor setting. There much more portable. Given the situation here no question studio flash is better. I just started shooting with four einsteins. Still working out several setups. Your still going to need them bells and wistles. A studio flash at 500 ws is about 7 times more powerful than a on camera strobe. (unless you buy a quantum which will set you back as much as a studio kit. At iso 100 you can shoot at f16 at 1/120 or better. The more powerful the strobe the better -- you can always stop them back. The question is how much do want to spend.
Russ
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