Lighting question: When taking formal portraits, I get a shadow behind the subject even from ambient light with no flash even when the subject is away from the wall. Worse with a...

Steve221221 Loc: Metro Detroit

When taking formal portraits, I get a shadow behind the subject even from ambient light with no flash even when the subject is away from the wall. Worse with a flash. What would be money best spent to fix this, a soft box or remote flash to light the wall? (I'm obviously new to this).

Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio

Have a look at this Steve...nice video about flash.
http://photo.blorge.com/2012/02/21/how-to-properly-use-flash-on-your-dslr-camera/

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

Posting a sample might help, but EVERY light source will cast a shadow. Controlling the light also controls the shadowing.

gordnanaimo Loc: Vancouver Island

Steve221221 wrote:

When taking formal portraits, I get a shadow behind the subject even from ambient light with no flash even when the subject is away from the wall. Worse with a flash. What would be money best spent to fix this, a soft box or remote flash to light the wall? (I'm obviously new to this).

Fix is easy just get a yuongo speed light use it as a slave (yuongo are fairly inexpensive around 50.00 in canada on amazon) and flash it at the wall behind the subject which should be about six feet away.

Steve221221 Loc: Metro Detroit

gordnanaimo wrote:

Fix is easy just get a yuongo speed light use it as a slave (yuongo are fairly inexpensive around 50.00 in canada on amazon) and flash it at the wall behind the subject which should be about six feet away.

Two models look good. I need to learn about these to find out what features there are and what I might want/need. I just got a Canon T3i. Will I need a flash trigger too or is that what the 'flash control' in the T3i refers to?

abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois

Steve221221 wrote:

gordnanaimo wrote:

Fix is easy just get a yuongo speed light use it as a slave (yuongo are fairly inexpensive around 50.00 in canada on amazon) and flash it at the wall behind the subject which should be about six feet away.

Two models look good. I need to learn about these to find out what features there are and what I might want/need. I just got a Canon T3i. Will I need a flash trigger too or is that what the 'flash control' in the T3i refers to?

I have a Canon 60D and it has a great feature built in: remote flash control. Not only will it trigger a remote Canon flash, you can use it in master or slave mode, use multiple flashes including the camera's own built-in one, and you can adjust lighting ratios. I am skeptical about those "bargains" on Amazon. They may be satisfactory for occasional use. And, in this case, you will have to buy some kind of remote control. However, I would rather pay more and get more assured with Canon. And the Canon features makes this a no-brainer for me. Check to see if your Rebel can do the same.

sportyman140 Loc: Juliette, GA

Can you post a photo to show us the shadow?

PhotoGator Loc: Florida

Steve, watch, study and take notes from this video by Syl Arena.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5byuHJ9uBns

singleviking Loc: Lake Sebu Eco Park, Philippines

Steve221221 wrote:

When taking formal portraits, I get a shadow behind the subject even from ambient light with no flash even when the subject is away from the wall. Worse with a flash. What would be money best spent to fix this, a soft box or remote flash to light the wall? (I'm obviously new to this).

I really don't comprehend how you get a shadow behind your subject with ambient light. Please post an example so this can be understood. Sounds like the use of a backdrop and indirect lighting would solve this.

PhotoGator Loc: Florida

Steve, watch, study and take notes from this video by Syl Arena.
Did I mention to watch, study and take notes from this video by Syl Arena?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5byuHJ9uBns

PHOTOGRAPHY'S INVERSE SQUARE LAW
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5BIvSBjvLg&feature=player_embedded

PhotoGator Loc: Florida

Steve221221 wrote:

gordnanaimo wrote:

Fix is easy just get a yuongo speed light use it as a slave (yuongo are fairly inexpensive around 50.00 in canada on amazon) and flash it at the wall behind the subject which should be about six feet away.

Two models look good. I need to learn about these to find out what features there are and what I might want/need. I just got a Canon T3i. Will I need a flash trigger too or is that what the 'flash control' in the T3i refers to?

The pop up flash serves as a master flash control but it is an Infrared signal. Using Infrared means the off camera flash most be visible to the camera (line of sight). There are radio frequency transceivers/receivers which allow more flexibility.
Most recommended:
PockerWizard Plus III Transceiver $149.00 (Transmitter/Receiver)
(you will need two; one on camera, one on off camera flash)

Crwiwy Loc: Devon UK

Presumably the shadow in ambient light was caused by bright light through a window.
Flash on the camera will always give strong shadows behind the subject.
A separate flash to put on the camera should be able to be angled in order to bounce the light off the ceiling and so reduce the shadows. However, any bounced light will give a coloured hue according to the colour of the surface it is bounced off. If the ceiling is white - then it should be OK.

jimmya Loc: Phoenix

Steve221221 wrote:

When taking formal portraits, I get a shadow behind the subject even from ambient light with no flash even when the subject is away from the wall. Worse with a flash. What would be money best spent to fix this, a soft box or remote flash to light the wall? (I'm obviously new to this).

In my experience two stand lights work pretty well. You can create dimension by setting one at say a 45 to to your subject's front and the other to the subjects back, also at a 45 on the other side.

There's so many ways to position lights for different effects, far too long to go into here.

Also, keeping the lights higher than the subject any shadow created should be below the subject on the background and thereby out of the shot.

Good Luck

Jim Peters Loc: Pittsburgh

4 Lights in Soft Boxes Were Used to Light This Images Also An Overhead Light For Hair Lighting. Two Lights Lighted The Back Ground. On a A White Back Drop Raising The Front Lights Helps
The Shadow And Can Take Away Glasses Glare.

Steve221221 Loc: Metro Detroit

abc1234 wrote:

br I have a Canon 60D and it has a great feature ... (show quote)

Are you saying a non-Canon Speedlight may not have remote capabilities even though it says specifically it's for the t3i? But a Canon will without an additional transmitter/receiver?

Also, I determined my shadows were from windows behind the photographer. I'm assuming a remote speedlight behind the subject would help. This solution would be more practical for me then softboxes.