alemorkam wrote:
Any recommendations for a flash kit for my Nikon D-500. Do mostly landscape photography but am getting into more portraits. Thanks.
The main questions are these:
1. AA batteries (use rechargeable) or custom Lithium battery. Lithium batteries will last longer in the flash, but require a separate charger, cost more, and you should have two for a backup. If you travel, and have a problem, you may not be able to get a replacement for Lithium, but AA batteries are availalbe nearly everywhere.
My recommendation: AA batteries. If you go off camera, you also need them for the trigger.
2. Rectangular head, round head, or bare bulb. Rectangular heads can focus, and fit in more modifiers. Round heads are great when switching between portrait and landscape orientation on a flash bracket. Bare bulb is better with larger modifiers and can avoid hot spots, but smaller common modifiers won't work.
My recommendation: Rectangular is more general purpose; you can experiment with other head shapes later.
3. TTL or manual. With TTL, the flash and camera work together to determine flash exposure, which is very convenient if you are in a rush. With manual, you either chimp a lot or get and use a flash exposure meter. You can usually set a TTL flash to manual, which is best if you have the time and a meter.
My recommendation: TTL
4. Wireless or not. Get a flash capable of radio wireless operation. Getting the flash off camera is one way to really improve your photography, and using a cord to do so is a real pain.
My recommendation: Wireless radio.
5. On camera or off. Higher power, lots of attachments. There are many advantages to using high power flash that doesn't mount on camera using a hot shoe. They require a radio trigger and a light stand. Or you have the convenience of a hot shoe mount.
My recommendation: Hot shoe mount. If you grow your lighting, you can consider off camera only.
As such, I recommend the Godox TT685ii and the Godox XPro trigger. One great feature these have is TCM (TTL converted to manual), which takes the power setting used in a TTL flash and sets the flash to manual with that power. To some extent, this eliminates the need for a flash meter and avoides the need to chimp (expose, check, adjust, expose again). The flash and the trigger both have the feature. An example; if you do focus stacking, you can use one TTL exposure to set the flash exposure and then fire off a sequence of manual flash exposures faster and more consistently than trying to set exposure manually or using TTL repeatedly.
And when doing portraits, same advantage.
Flashpoint has their own versions of these items; same stuff, different name.